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Post 02 Apr 2007, 12:44 • #1 
Guide
Joined: 04/22/06
Posts: 191
Here's some photos of one of the glass rods I built this winter. This was the "no expense spared" rod.components were:

--chrome "Snake Brand" snakes
--"Snake Brand" nickel silver agate stripping guide with yellow and amber agate
--Fenwick style modified halfwells grip
--knurled nickel silver winding check
--Struble nickel silver downlocking reel seat with amboyna burl insert
--vintage loop hook keep from Golden Witch
--Gudebrod chestnut A nylon thread
--Gudebrod metallic gold thread
--8 coats of Gudebrod rod varnish

I've got my new Bronson Royalist loaded up with a new Cortland Sylk 4 weight. In a month it might be time to fish here!

Image

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Sorry about the photo quality, the rod is nicer than the photos let on. I have another (this time vintage) rod that'll be done this week -photos forthcoming.


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Post 02 Apr 2007, 13:13 • #2 
Administrator
Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7823
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Aaron,

That is just lovely! Really lovely! Very nice choice on the colors. And that Royalist looks good on that rod.

Nice work!

Tom


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Post 02 Apr 2007, 14:33 • #3 
Master Guide
Joined: 03/27/07
Posts: 689
Beautiful work! If you don't mind me asking, did you coat the chestnut thread with cp before applying the varnish? Or is it without cp? That color looks stunning on the Lami blank.

The Bronson reel looks sooo fine with the rod. :D

I look forward to seeing photos of your next project.

Mark


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Post 02 Apr 2007, 15:21 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 10/11/06
Posts: 1673
that is absolutely outstanding! great work! i really like that handle and reel seat. the whole rod is great.


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Post 02 Apr 2007, 22:24 • #5 
Guide
Joined: 04/22/06
Posts: 191
gypsy,
The thread was coated with about 3 coats of CP first. I spent a lot of time trying different thread colors so I wanted to be sure it wouldn't change a lot when it was coated.

Thanks for the kind words, guys.

-Aaron


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Post 03 Apr 2007, 00:58 • #6 
Master Guide
Joined: 10/23/05
Posts: 733
Location: Howell, NJ
Aaron, that is super nice. Really love those colors, grip, and reel seat. You along with others talked me into this blank, and I am doing a similar color scheme, using medium brown and gold for the wraps, No CP. I'll be wrapping it this week.

Again, really nice job on that and it looks like you did a top notch finish job with the gudebrod varnish.

I am building mine to be my dream bluegill rod.

Lou


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Post 06 Apr 2007, 14:43 • #7 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/08/05
Posts: 3570
Location: Western PA
I never thought chestnut thread on a Lamiglas would look this good. I thought wrong. I like how you wrapped the trim too. REALLY NICE! You used varnish? How do you dry the varnish? I was told you can't use a drying motor; that you have to rotate the blank by hand. Is this true?


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Post 07 Apr 2007, 00:17 • #8 
Sport
Joined: 11/22/06
Posts: 57
Aaron,

Excellent custom rod - elegantly appointed without being "over the top". You'd almost regret getting the grip soiled after you land your first fish,but I suppose that's what it's all about.

Scud dog -- I've used Gudebrod rod varnish for years,and always use a drying motor.I apply it with a sable brush - and I'm not stingy with it.As the rod rotates,I run the brush back and forth,looking for a smooth and even coverage. Using a liberal amount of varnish promotes the self-leveling process. It does take at least two weeks to dry. I've done cane rods this way,and you'd swear they were dipped.

Again Aaron - your rod is a beauty - maybe I'll see you on Oriskany on of these days!

Mark


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Post 07 Apr 2007, 02:02 • #9 
Guide
Joined: 04/22/06
Posts: 191
Scud Dog,
The stuff I used is called "Gudebrod Rod Finish". I'm not sure if it is the same as "Varnish", it seems very different from any varnish I've seen. It is "soap and water clean-up" and has NO smell whatsoever.

I use a small sable brush and apply it very sparingly, just dabbing it on. It levels itself because it is almost as thin as water. It dries VERY quickly -I can put a coat on and then apply another coat because the first wrap I coated is already dry! It goes on so thin that I don't use a drying motor at all, I just rotate the rod every few minutes for about 10 minutes and then it's dry.

I think this stuff is not the same as the Gudebrod's rod varnish that Picketpin used, especially if it takes two weeks to dry.

It's also very economical. I've done four rods with my one bottle and it's still 2/3 full! At this rate it'll be about $.50 a rod ...


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Post 07 Apr 2007, 10:23 • #10 
Sport
Joined: 11/22/06
Posts: 57
Aaron,

I used the water based finish once - disaster! May have been frozen ? It ran like a 100 meter sprinter.
The product I use is Gudebrod #222 "Glass Rod Varnish"
Label reads "A plastic resin base varnish designed for glass fishing rods - self leveling,producing a high gloss,clear finish that is extremely flexible and resistant to scuffs,shocks and cracking." This is reminiscent of the bottled varnish of yesteryear that was used for everything from rods to head cement. I've got 20 year old rods that still wipe clean and glossy with a damp rag.
We'll see I suppose, but I don't think the water based finish will be as durable. Sure , it's cost effective,but with the components you've opted for,I'd have elected
for a high end finish. I guess it's what works for you?

Mark


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Post 07 Apr 2007, 12:13 • #11 
Guide
Joined: 04/22/06
Posts: 191
Yes, you CANNOT let this stuff freeze. I ordered a bottle of cement from Gudebrod and it froze in my garage after it had been delivered and it was ruined, looked like cottage cheese.

I definitely chose this stuff because I liked the look and the idea of the easy cleanup (I really hate dealing with epoxy, every time I touch it I feel like I'm taking a year off my life!) I didn't buy it because it was cheap! I hadn't heard about the glass varnish or I probably would have used that because it would appeal to me a lot.

I hope this stuff lasts, I perhaps naively trusted the Gudebrod name. If things go horribly wrong I have a bunch of Flex Coat Lite I can slap on them!

-Aaron


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