I missed this request. I'm glad I can still post a reply to an old thread. Here is a side view.
I attach but do not yet wind a hackle feather. Then I lash a wing clump on loosely (loosely) and then wind the thread horizontally between wing clump and shank a dozen or so wraps. Then I wind the hackle between wing clump and shank.
Tnen I turn the fly on its side while still in the vise, with thread bobbin AND hackle pliers hanging.
Then I put a small dab of glue at the fulcrum of the parachute. Breath on it if it's CA glue or shine a UV light on it if it's UV glue. Then trim off the hanging stuff.
For photographic purposes I tie this fly with a tan or gray wing to more closely match the real bugs. For fishing purposes I make the wing white so I can see it with geezer eyes. I used to be able to see the dull-colored flies. But not any more.
I can't say this fly attracts more strikes than a Troth Elk Hair Caddis. Maybe in certain conditions. Mostly I just like tying them. And fishing them. They do float well. They do catch fish.
The following is perhaps a bit obscure but still, I think, valid. A Troth Elk Hair Caddis uses a standard length hook with a gape large enough to protrude down almost but not quite to ends of the hackle fibers (Palmered around the body of the fly). I attended several Al Troth tying seminars. Matching hook size to hackle fiber length was important to Al. He kept one of those metal pin guages on his vise, which he used to carefully, accurately match hook gape to hackle feather size. Al was a perfectionist who wanted things exactly his way.
With my fly the hackles are parallel to the water's surface so you can get away with using a smaller gape hook. It's also a short shank hook. Both of those characteristics reduce the overall amount of metal----------so it does float better. Don't believe that?
Think about the corollary. Any dry fly tied on a bigger, longer, heavy wire hook won't float well at all. If at all. Reducing metal really does make any dry fly design float better. That my story.