Crank baits use a combination of a diving lip, buoyancy on the top side of the lure body and embedded weight down low to keep the lure from spinning around in a circle, so they wobble from side to side instead. You don't have to make a molded lure. You can snip a body shape out of buoyant closed cell foam with scissors. And then use epoxy or super glue to add a diving bill (snipped from a tomato container from Cosco). And then add weight down low, somehow, someway. Perhaps as a bead. Perhaps as flattened lead glued to the back side of the diving bill. The plastic bill has to be roughed up with sand paper at any glue spots. Else the glue won't hold.
Homemade crank baits can be made light, for use with a fly rod or heavy, for use with standard bass gear. Now that mass produced crank baits cost $5 to $10 a piece you'd think more bass fishermen would make their own. But most don't realize how easy it is. Most assume you have to make a $20,000 dollar mold first.
Ah. I forgot to mention. You need to make the diving bill way too big at first, so you can tune it (one time only) when you get to the water, by trimming it with toe nail clippers. If it swims to the right trim the left side of the bill.
Also, you can poke multiple holes in the diving bill. A hole down low on the bill makes a deeper diver with tight high-frequency wobble. A hole up high on the bill makes a more shallow diver with a wide, slow motion wobble. Weight on the leader is one way to get a slow motion wobbler down deep.
Finally. Here's an assertion I can't prove but I firmly believe in: Soft bodied crank baits work better than molded, hard bodied crank baits. Perhaps this has something to do with the lateral line sense organ. Perhaps fish can distinguish vibrations emanating from a rock hard chunk of plastic as different than a soft, squishy wobbler. The soft ones do seem to work better.
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