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Post 18 Sep 2023, 18:14 • #1 
New Member
Joined: 09/13/23
Posts: 3

Brand new here and I’ve searched around for some info on how to refinish, repair or restore this Scott f2 rod that I recently acquired. I gathered some info but I still have a couple questions I was hoping someone could help with.

1. The main damage is away from the wraps - would it be feasible to just sand or strip the running lengths between the wraps? Would it be better to rework it all?
2. Sand or strip, which would be best for this rod?
3. I’d like to keep the rods lettering intact if possible and bring the finish back close to original. What finish material would you recommend?
My goal is to protect the rod first and foremost and any improvements to aesthetics would be an add on. I fish this rod extensively on small mountain streams here in Mt.
Thanks in advance.




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Post 18 Sep 2023, 19:20 • #2 
Administrator
Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7799
Location: Holly Springs, NC
That is a fairly recent rod. I would not expect damage like that.

Is the damage only in one rod section? Have you contacted Scott? They should be able to suggest a paint to recoat the rod.


Tom


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Post 18 Sep 2023, 19:52 • #3 
New Member
Joined: 09/13/23
Posts: 3
I did contact Scott via email (no reply) and called a week later and they didn’t have anything to offer. The lady I spoke with said the damage was likely from being put away wet. I asked for a ballpark on what they’d charge to refinish the rod for me and was told they don’t do that.
I don’t know the history of the rod but I love the way it feels. It obviously has had a rough life but I have like $75 in the rod and the clickII reel.





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Post 18 Sep 2023, 20:07 • #4 
Master Guide
Joined: 05/16/10
Posts: 814
Location: South of Houston, TX
What a deal!
you've already cleaned up the handle well. If it were me, I'd clean it and make sure the remaining clear is not flaking, then I'd test to see what a bit of clear coat would look like. On one of the sections not near the signature area I'd wipe on a bit of varnish with my fingers to see what a light coat looked like. If it's not to your liking, wipe it all off and clean it with some rubbing alcohol before it cures. But if it does look good to you, then I'd proceed section by section. Another option would be spraying varnish from a can of aerosol, but if it were me I'd use wipe on for a bit more control over runs.

And welcome to the board.


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Post 18 Sep 2023, 20:54 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 01/02/12
Posts: 1855
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
If you decide to remove what remains of the original paint, then I suggest Citrus Strip. Cover the areas you don’t want removed with masking tape. A simple remedy is to make sure the blank is clean, then hand rub in a couple of coats of varnish. While not restoring the original finish, it offers some lasting protection.


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Post 19 Sep 2023, 07:10 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8906
Location: US-ME
Rode hard AND put away wet. Easy to spiff up, though. You will be surprised by the results, which don't preclude a more thorough job later if you ever decide it's worthwhile, which I doubt you will. Fingertip application after cleaning and buffing. Realize that the buffing is only to micro-rough-up the finish to ensure good adhesion, NOT to remove finish/flakes that doesn't rub right off with cleaning. As thin as possible, and half again thinner than that. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18487&p=109667&hilit=spiff#p109667

This simple treatment will protect the rod unless its structure is damaged, which is unlikely, and no cosmetic treatment would take care of that anyhow. You can see if it will give acceptable cosmetic results just by wiping the rod down with a mild solvent and looking it over wet.


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Post 19 Sep 2023, 08:09 • #7 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 2490
Location: South of Joplin
I'd do pretty much what whrlpool suggests and he has already covered the process well in the linked post.


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Post 19 Sep 2023, 11:37 • #8 
New Member
Joined: 09/13/23
Posts: 3
Thanks for all the suggestions, I’m headed for supplies now.


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