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Post 18 May 2023, 09:59 • #1 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/26/21
Posts: 383
Location: North West Georgia
Hi Guys! I recently picked up Jeffroey's P761 Galaxy rod.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=71420
Thanks Jeffroey! this may be a slower paced build thread, but Ive started working so I figured Id start documenting.

I sanded the tip section to improve the fit of the last ferrule with good results in about 20 minutes. A quick yard casting session showed that the rod would probably work best as a 7wt for me. It cast a rio gold 6 well enough and could be fished as a 6 at longer distances, but I think a 7 is a better fit. I only have a DT7, but I may try out a WF7 some time soon. I suspect the rod has the tip strength to handle sinking lines as well.

at this point my plan is to perform a fly only conversion with a Fenwick style grip and possibly a small fighting butt. I would prefer to save the original reel seat if possible. Im imagining a short powerful 6/7 that can handle streamers, intermediate or sink tip lines, poppers, terrestrials, or moderately heavy indicator rigs. Given my location and the rods apparent niche I suspect it will be a creek/kayak warm water rod mostly but it could also have streamer and nymph applications for trout.

yesterday I began working on stripping the rod down. all of the guides came off without much of a struggle, but the threads will need some more work to remove. the blank will need to be cleaned off and likely refinished. with the guides off the rod feels a little more limber. perhaps this is wishful thinking, but those heavy guides certainly weren't making the rod more flexible.

next I moved on to trying to boil off the reel seat. my first attempt to pull the reel seat off was at about the 10 minute mark. No dice. I tried again every 10 minutes for an hour and never persuaded the seat to come off. at one point, I yielded to the temptation to give the seat a gentle twist, and I didnt like what I saw in terms of the whole thing wanting to twist up under some of the cork. Ofcourse, that was the end of the twisting experiment. Id rather not boil it for any longer, Im worried about softening the fiberglass. I am fairly certain that the glass under the grip and real seat was softened by the prolonged boil time. I dont want to cut the seat off, but given the choice between risking the blank and destroying the reel seat, Ill save the blank. Any ideas?

Thanks for following along! pics to come.


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Post 11 Jul 2023, 07:50 • #2 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/26/21
Posts: 383
Location: North West Georgia
Hi Guys. Work continues slowly on the P761 blank. I ended up having to cut off the original reel seat. Once the seat and original cork came off I used Citristrip to remove finish and stubborn thread wraps. After several applications and about 8 hours total in the Citristrip all of the thread and finish have come off. However, there are some very stubborn brown stains on the blank from the thread that refuse to come off.

The citrustrip seems to have taken the finish off of the tip top ferrule, I had to remove more material from the tip section to restore the fit. Im a little leary of continuing to use Citristrip on this blank. I tried sanding with 1000 grit paper, I ended up with a smooth area on the blank with brown stains still present. How would you guys go about removing the brown stains?


I also need to pick out a product to finish the blank with. Leaning towards thinned varnish at this point.

Guides and cork are all sitting on the work bench, just wating on a reel seat components wise. I found a vintage style metal seat on ebay that is similar in color to the original.


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Post 11 Jul 2023, 08:21 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4961
Location: US-MT
I've got the fly-only version of that, is a nice 7wt I pack into local lakes with.

You don't need to apply finish to entire rod, just the wraps.

Boiling never works for me, I heat with a torch or cut em off.

Stains probably not coming off. From my days of having three daughters running around, I have a hundred or more colored sharpies and the like. I can almost always find something to mask defects. But aren't you going to wrap over them anyway?


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Post 11 Jul 2023, 09:09 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 07/05/10
Posts: 5229
Location: Mid Hudson Valley of New York
Wrap with ncp thread


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Post 11 Jul 2023, 09:53 • #5 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/26/21
Posts: 383
Location: North West Georgia
Thanks for the advice. I think it may turn out to be a really great all purpose rod. Im get more excited the more I work on it.

Ive successfully removed u40 rod bond by boiling but apparently whatever lamiglass used back in the day was "the good stuff".

Ill definitely wrap over the ferrules and the ends of each segment. Its really just the places where there were guides mid section that might turn out to be visible. That wouldnt be the end of the world though if the marks end up being permanent.


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Post 11 Jul 2023, 20:55 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/31/15
Posts: 1235
Location: Northern Rockies
I think any medium- to dark-colored nylon would mask those stains well. No need to go with NCP thread unless you just want to for the aesthetics. They aren't too dramatic or different from the blank's color.

Looking forward to seeing more.


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Post 24 Jul 2023, 20:30 • #7 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/26/21
Posts: 383
Location: North West Georgia
Hi guys. Ive made a good bit of progress on the P761 rebuild. I resolved myself to live with the stains from the original thread wraps. I copied the guide spacing from my FF756, gave that a shot, made a few minor tweaks, and the wrapped the guides with red A nylon. In a reel-taped-to-the-blank test the rod seemed to really like a WF7. At this point all threads wraps are done except for trim wraps on the butt section.



Im waiting on cork in the mail for the grip and working on a downlocking fighting butt set up. Unfortunately my made from scratch fighting butt idea hasnt worked out too well.



My thought was to set the upper ring of an uplocking reel seat into a cork ring, then build it into a fighting butt glued up on a fiberglass rod. After initial glue up, I glued three more ring onto the tip top end of the set up to make an arbor to slip into the rod butt. With the butt aligned and affixed to the blank as well as the barrel of the seat self aligning into the fighting butt I thought everything would be very concentric and sturdy. Thats where I went wrong :(

It appears that the steel ring is a good ways out of center in the fighting butt, and with the whole thing assembled you can tell (in person) that the fighting but is not on the same axis as the blank. This might by what Wile e coyote felt like?

I could probably hand sand the butt to be close enough to looking right to the bare eye, but Ill have to think more about the crookedness. Perhaps I can undersize the arbor to gain the slop I need to get it straight? Im not sure if the super thin veneer or cork on the outside of the ring will hold up long term either :( what do you guys think ?

Ps - when I get the fighting butt right Ill trim about an inch off of the butt of the rod to make all of the section lengths match.


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Post 25 Jul 2023, 10:15 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4961
Location: US-MT
Can't quite follow what the issue is with fighting butt....... am sure you will figure something sound.

Not sure I would cut an inch off of butt to make em all same length, but that is your decision.


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Post 25 Jul 2023, 11:02 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8906
Location: US-ME
O-rings (any hardware or auto parts store) are the most adaptable to fit a removable fighting butt and compensate for slight irregularities in the male or the female. They can be fixed in place on the shaft and are easily replaceable. Cork works a few times but looses its resilience if compressed repeatedly.


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Post 06 Oct 2023, 19:20 • #10 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/26/21
Posts: 383
Location: North West Georgia
Hi guys. Long time, no update.

The rod is done, and its a really excellent all purpose 6 wt. I havent cast it side by side with my FF756-4 yet, but thats probably the closest thing I have to the P761. Id guess that the P761 is just a bit slower and fuller flexing than a FF756-4. I think it could handle a 7wt line or a sink tip line if needed. Its certainly more powerful by a long shot than my FF70-4 or FF75-4.

So far Ive used it exclusivly for flipping a muddler minnow around small trout streams. It will roll cast the entire head of a wf6 with a muddler at the end but casts just fine in close. It bends fine with an 8" trout but I suspect it has the power in the butt to properly fight a 14-16+" fish too. I havent used It for nymphs yet but I think it would do fine. I suspect it would be an outright excellent rod for smalls stream terrestrials. It might not be as good as an FF70-4 for small stream dries, but Im not sure anything is!

I was afraid the rod would be clubby and tippy (because of being a fly/spin blank) but thats not true at all. Id call it a powerful 6 with plenty of classic glass wiggle.

Its first outing was on my favorite GSMNP stream, the rainbows and brookies played along nicely.






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Post 07 Oct 2023, 11:12 • #11 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 01/02/12
Posts: 1855
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
The end result was certainly worth the effort. Great job!


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Post 07 Oct 2023, 11:29 • #12 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/31/15
Posts: 1235
Location: Northern Rockies
Well done!


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