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Post 20 Mar 2023, 09:49 • #1 
Sport
Joined: 03/03/23
Posts: 35
Hi all,

I am very excited as I have just received my first rod building kit from Proof Fly Fishing and I am in the beginning stages of getting ready to start my build. I've watched most of Proof's videos regarding building and I have been trying to absorb as much info/video content as I can. All of this is great, but it's always nice to go right to the source for tips/pointers/help. So with that being said I have some specific questions and then some more general one and I'd love to get everyone's insight.

1. Do you use a rod turner for drying? I've seen/read a lot about them and it seems to be mostly preference. I feel wrapping by hand makes sense but I was wondering how much of a pain drying is without having a turner.
2. What are the biggest/most common mistakes you have seen or encountered? Any tips to avoid?
3. Looking back, what are things/processes you wish you adopted sooner when you first started building.

Any other tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated!


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Post 20 Mar 2023, 10:19 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Follow one good source's instructions. Too much advice is worse than none.

Learn using the minimum of tools. Then decide what, if any specialized tools are needed.


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Post 20 Mar 2023, 10:27 • #3 
Master Guide
Joined: 05/16/10
Posts: 814
Location: South of Houston, TX
1. I use a turner with epoxy, but not with varnish, as I apply a very thin coat and just turn it a few times.
2. Speaking of thin coats, one of the common beginner issues is using too much finish. Epoxy will "football" as the surface tension pulls the material into a lump in the center of your wrap. Varnish will cure from the outside in and gets all wrinkled as the volume of material under the cured outer layer evaporates and shrinks. Plan on using multiple coats and don't rush.
3. I do more test wraps now than when I first started. Either on a scrap piece of an old rod, a bamboo skewer, or under where the reel seat will mount. I like to do a test of the wrap and finish to be sure I get what I was picturing, or at least am satisfied with the result.


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Post 20 Mar 2023, 12:31 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/31/15
Posts: 1238
Location: Northern Rockies
I like a rod turner, even with varnish. It's nice to be able to set it and let it run without worrying turning. I often have small chunks of time to get work done, so this helps.

Other than that, I agree with a minimal approach. I have a hand wrapper and some burnishing tools. I don't need much else.


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Post 20 Mar 2023, 12:44 • #5 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/02/16
Posts: 515
Location: Georgia
I also used the Proof instructional videos as my primary source for learning basic techniques. It was really helpful to watch them at my own pace for the first build.

I would recommend investing in a rod turner. I was on the fence about spending the extra money on one and have never regretted the purchase. I ended up buying a jig on eBay that included a 5-6 RPM turning motor, chuck, and wood stands. That said, I’ve only used Threadmaster epoxy and never tried varnish. There are some great tips in this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=74514

My biggest mistake is rushing the build process. It’s easy to get excited about fishing the new rod ASAP. One example that applies to almost every step - if you notice any imperfections in your thread wraps, don’t be afraid to take all the thread off and start over.

Like ColdPass, I do more test wraps now than on my first builds, and selecting the wrap color has become one of my favorite parts of the build process. I like to try at least 5-6 color options. The finished appearance of the wrap can be way different than you expect when you combine the variables of thread color, blank color, and effects of epoxy/varnish. For this reason, I always do test wraps on the blank in the ~10” section of the butt that will be covered by the grip and reel seat. Test wraps are also a good opportunity to improve your thread work and refine your epoxy/varnish finishing process. Everyone does the finishing process a little differently, so try different techniques and find out what works best for you.


Last edited by El Duderino on 20 Mar 2023, 12:51, edited 1 time in total.

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Post 20 Mar 2023, 12:50 • #6 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/26/21
Posts: 383
Location: North West Georgia
Id start with varnish, its more forgiving than epoxy and requires less tools. With that said, Im moving towards using epoxy now.

Avoid putting too much thread tension on your wraps, its easier than putting too little. Do some research about an appropriate length for ferrule wraps. Opinions differ, though most people seem to think 2x rod diameter is good for tip over butt ferrules. I once cut dome wraps off after finish because I wasnt satisfied that they were long enough.

Take your time and be careful, especially with finish work. On the flip side, dont stress yourself out about it. Have fun. Its just a fishing rod, and any cosmetic blemishes will not be noticed with a fish on.


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Post 20 Mar 2023, 23:17 • #7 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5561
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
Everyone says varnish is more forgiving. I have much better luck with epoxy, especially if using CP. To me a rod turner is required for epoxy. I know you can do without, but it really is so much easier.

Also you don't need to put the finish on while it is turning via the motor. You can rotate the rod by hand while applying the finish and then put the rod in the turner. The 4 to 6 rpm motor sounds perfect. Anything from 1 to 10 rpm will do.

Reread old posts here and pay special attention to wjude's posts.

And remember. you will notice the flaws more than anyone else.
And the rod will fish fine, even with football finishes. (I know, I passed the FFI CI test with a rod that has football epoxy finish).


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Post 21 Mar 2023, 13:26 • #8 
New Member
Joined: 04/04/22
Posts: 15
Location: MN Driftless
Welcome to the fold! I started on a proof kit and blue halo blank several years ago, that's a great way to tackle this.

1. I built a handwrapper from simple parts and pine and I just used that to dry my first few rods. Setting a timer and rotating 180* every 15 minutes for 2 hours is an easy way to do it. I've invested in a CRB dryer (maybe $75?) when I knew I'd be doing more rods in the future.
2. Your guides can line up but somehow get off of the spline. Always check alignment at every guide! Also don't overdo it on the epoxy.
3. I'm interested in this as well! I'll be following along to keep learning and improving.


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Post 21 Mar 2023, 17:46 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4966
Location: US-MT
It's hard not to stress about all the details, but do try not to. You gotta get some sleep

Less is more.


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Post 21 Mar 2023, 19:08 • #10 
Guide
Joined: 11/23/17
Posts: 314
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Though I now utilize an 8 rpm dryer, I don’t turn under power for the first thirty minutes. Until then I perform periodic 180 degree turns. You can learn a great deal about the physical behavior of thread epoxy by manually turning for the entire time required for sag free curing. I did so for about fifteen years of rod building.


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Post 21 Mar 2023, 21:05 • #11 
Master Guide
Joined: 12/19/07
Posts: 393
Location: US-MI
Less is more. Especially when it comes to epoxy. Keep it simple when it comes to tools. After building for over 20 years I find myself going back to basics.
Also, perp tour guide feet. Some guides come pre prepped like Snake brand. Others need some work to taper the feet.
Take breaks. I have a small tv in the wrapping area. I wrap a couple of guides then watch a little then go back to it. Goves the eyes a break.


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