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Re-painting Loomis
Post 25 Feb 2023, 23:51 • #1 
Sport
Joined: 07/25/18
Posts: 27
Location: US-CA
I know this is a bit off topic, but I was given a Loomis NRX that has the typical clear coat failure. I think the coatings used 10 years ago were a bit weak, as many NRX owners report this problem.

so, I'm going to strip the clear coat with Citrus Strip, but I'm trying to figure out how to repaint the blank. The NRX, like the Sage X, has a green, iridescent quality to the blank, a bit lighter, but similar to Sage X. Does anyone have an idea how to replicate this look? Thanks in advance.


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Re: Re-painting Loomis
Post 26 Feb 2023, 03:46 • #2 
Administrator
Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7824
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Why repaint it? Paint adds weight and doesn't do anything for the blank. Then the paint sheds off 10 years later!

There have been a number of blank painting threads in the past. Automotive spray paint gets mentioned often. Run a forum search for suggestions. However, duplicating a proprietary iridescent color probably isn't easy.


Tom


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Re: Re-painting Loomis
Post 26 Feb 2023, 09:01 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8933
Location: US-ME
I wouldn't bother, either, but painting a blank is easy enough. First, though, determine why the original finish failed. Sometimes habits of care and storage have more to do with it than the finish itself. If that's the case, a similar failure is likely the next time around. Sometimes, little scars or flakes just mean the finish did its job of protecting the blank and is fit to keep doing that.


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Re: Re-painting Loomis
Post 26 Feb 2023, 13:31 • #4 
Sport
Joined: 07/25/18
Posts: 27
Location: US-CA
Thanks for the responses. To answer some of your questions: (1) the blank originally came painted, so re-painting should not add any weight not intended at the factory (assuming I keep it thin enough); (2) I can simply paint it with a standard 2k system, but it will look oddly flat and monochrome against how the rods were originally painted/sold; and (3) I suspect that the clearcoat failure is product-related. This is not chipping where there were a few dings, this is half the clearcoat having peeled off along the length of the rod -- I don't doubt that how it was stored played some part in the failure; however, in the late oughts, the EPA (and state counterparts) started regulating the chemicals that could be used in paint products, and the reformulated products have a history of failing ( I just finished dealing with a matter where windows stained and clear-coated back in 2008 had the clearcoat fail completely within 5 years -- the re-coated windows still look like new). I think the newer formulations work much better. In any event, thanks for the feedback.


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Re: Re-painting Loomis
Post 26 Feb 2023, 17:41 • #5 
Master Guide
Joined: 09/26/10
Posts: 547
Location: Montana
I might also suggest leaving it alone as well depending on the amount of peeling/finish failure. The assumption also is that a stripper will remove it. The rods that I have refinished stripper would not remove the finish. I ultimately sent them to Kerry Burkhiemer to do. He used a centerless grinder to remove the finish and they were repainted. These rods had great sentimental value so it was worth it me.

I also tried repainting a friend’s rod that had the finish sanded off by the prior owner. Tried various spray on clear coats for plastic. I could never get it to look very good. That blank got sent to another friend to repaint. It had great sentimental value so it was worth the expense.

One thing to think about is that you should be careful around the ferrules. Removing the finish is likely to change the fit. I once bought a blem blank that had a terrible finish on it. I used some scotch bright to remove it. I should have masked off the male ferrule as it really screwed up the fit. I did not even think about it :(


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Re: Re-painting Loomis
Post 27 Feb 2023, 15:30 • #6 
Sport
Joined: 07/25/18
Posts: 27
Location: US-CA
Thanks for the feedback. Very helpful.


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