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Post 20 Jan 2023, 10:46 • #1 
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Joined: 06/20/14
Posts: 19
Location: US-TN
Forum Members, my first-time post. I am in the process of rebuilding a fiberglass Colt Actionrod. No problem removing the components. I want to bring the rod up to date with better guide placement and number of guides. My question is what do you recommend for removing the thread wrap finish ridges and white trim paint lines that remains on the rod? The blank has the natural color. Under where the thread wraps were shows a matt finish. Elsewhere on the blank has a clear coat. I am leaning towards applying a citrus solvent to strip the whole rod then applying one of the topcoat finishes mentioned in the forum then wrapping the guides and trim wraps followed by finishing with Flex Coat. I already got some help reviewing an old thread (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=42514#p158381) More help and comments are appreciated. Jim


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Post 20 Jan 2023, 13:30 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4966
Location: US-MT
Not sure that there is a "better" guide placement or numbers. Just changes in style.

Lot of people use Citristrip, I would start there.

Pictures are always fun!


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Post 20 Jan 2023, 13:40 • #3 
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Joined: 06/20/14
Posts: 19
Location: US-TN
The rod only had 5 factory guides. Thank you for the tip on the citristrip. Will look into that.

I tried to post a picture but failed somewhere along the way. Will try again.


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Post 20 Jan 2023, 14:05 • #4 
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Joined: 06/23/05
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Location: US-MT
Picture looks good, TY

Nice logo on that


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Post 20 Jan 2023, 14:14 • #5 
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Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Nice pic. Usually you will have to live with some remnant/ghost marks where the previous wraps were. A razor blade and a little scraping--even with just a sharp plastic edge, will take care of ridges from the old finish. Usually the new guide placement, if you do that, will conceal some of it, and a little creative trim or spiraling most of the rest. But when i'ts as close as that looks, I wouldn't even worry about it and just use whatever guide placement you think best. As Mag mentioned, don't rule out the original spacing. At least try it; it might be just fine, and at the very least, trying it will show you what changes you want to make. Realize that the final finish--if you use an amber-toned spar varnish--will further mute the old discolorations. That and earthtone thread colors will give the rod character. It is going to look really good with a wiped on gloss, semigloss, or satin finish. If you really want it to look more pristine, you would need to paint it--and at the expense of that beautiful brown weave 'glass.


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Post 20 Jan 2023, 15:29 • #6 
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Joined: 01/10/06
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Location: Holly Springs, NC
The citrus strip will remove the label if you let it. Try stripping only the tip section first, before you do anything to the butt. Practice on masking a section from the citrus strip to make sure you can control what it is eating. Once you have the kinks worked out, then do the butt section.

How do the grip, reelseat, and ferrules look?


Tom


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Post 20 Jan 2023, 16:13 • #7 
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Joined: 06/20/14
Posts: 19
Location: US-TN
Hello Tom,
I was concerned about the label and want to preserve it if possible. I'm in no hurry to finish the build so I will follow your advice with masking an area to preserve what's under the tape before moving on to strip the butt section. The reel seat was toast. I needed use channel lock pliers to turn the locking rings in order to remove the old automatic reel. In the process, as I was grasping the cork grip and turning the locking ring, the cork grip completely broke free of the blank. Easiest grip I've ever removed! A bench grinder was used to work through the aluminum seat with no damage to the blank. The ferrules look good. No cracks, no clicking when assembled and flexed. The male ferrule is tarnished. I thought to use Brasso to polish it. Suggestion?
Thank you for your reply and help. Very much appreciated.
Jim


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Post 22 Jan 2023, 14:46 • #8 
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Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7811
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Give the ferrules a good cleaning with Q-tips and solvent. If they fit well don't mess with them any further.

Skip the Brasso or Flitz. Anyone can have pretty, shiny, poor fitting ferrules. Your ferrules are unique, well seasoned pros.


Tom


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Post 22 Jan 2023, 15:23 • #9 
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Joined: 06/20/14
Posts: 19
Location: US-TN
Thank you, Tom. Will follow your advice. I just added the model number image.



Last edited by JBurch01 on 23 Jan 2023, 09:52, edited 1 time in total.

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Post 22 Jan 2023, 15:48 • #10 
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Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Enjoying the pics. Hope you will continue has the rebuild progresses.


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Post 23 Jan 2023, 21:37 • #11 
New Member
Joined: 06/20/14
Posts: 19
Location: US-TN
I picked up the Citristrip, 0000 steel wool, and Minwax spray Spar varnish. I will start the stripping process tomorrow. Thinking of size A Gudebrod untreated nylon green thread for main wraps with red trim wraps, and Flex Coat finish. I like the translucent appearance of the untreated thread.

Update: The Citristrip worked like butter!! I took a contractor trash bag and cut it down each side to make a long length that was placed over two sections of PVC pipe, creating a trough. Multiple layers of painter's tape covered the factory label. Citristrip was sprayed on and allowed to soak. An hour later, the factory finish wiped off like butter! I cleaned the rod with 200 proof ETOH and am ready to apply a new finish tomorrow. Cleaned blank photo below:



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Post 25 Jan 2023, 09:19 • #12 
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Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7811
Location: Holly Springs, NC
If you have time, give the cleaned blank a couple days to air out. I would clean the blank with ethanol once a day and then let it sit.

You want all of the citrus strip chemicals to evaporate out of the fiberglass matrix before you seal it with a new finish.


Tom


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Post 25 Jan 2023, 10:41 • #13 
New Member
Joined: 06/20/14
Posts: 19
Location: US-TN
Tom, I did exactly what you recommended. Several wiping's with 200 proof laboratory grade ethyl alcohol was used to remove and residual Citristrip. The rod was placed over an air vent to facilitate drying between wiping's. A makeshift cardboard spray booth was created, and three coats of Minwax Spar Urethane gloss spray was applied. I am overwhelmed at how nice the finished product came out! Moving forward...






On a side note: I was on a roll with the Citristrip and sprayed several scrap sections from old fiberglass casting rods. For a learning session, 91% isopropyl alcohol was used to remove the residual Citristrip. The sections remained tacky. Absolute, 100% alcohol is the right solution.


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