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Post 16 Dec 2022, 19:39 • #1 
Sport
Joined: 10/09/12
Posts: 26
Location: US-WA
I really tried using search, but with over 1,000 hits I gave up.

Hoping someone will advise me on how to pick the correct size ferrule pair to replace my badly worn ones (past the chrome and into the brass).

The rod is an older St. Croix 7 ft., 2 piece, in dark tobacco colored fiberglass.

Do I remove the male and female ends and mic the rod OD on both pieces then locate a ferrule ever so slightly larger than my measurements?

I hope to use my heat gun and do a couple of heat cycles then try to gently twist off the old ones while warm. Fingers crossed.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.


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Post 17 Dec 2022, 01:00 • #2 
Guide
Joined: 12/21/17
Posts: 100
Location: US-MN
Ferrules are made in 1/64ths of an inch increments before metric came on the scene so your st croix rod will be sized that way-so you could measure the rod ends or the old ferrule insides and get the right measurement and it will be the right one because they made the blank to fit the ferrule to avoid filler or sanding. Take your time and dont twist too hard and keep the heat down. I would avoid using a lighter or flame because it can get too hot and melt the fiberglass fibers If the heat gun does not work then you could try submerging in boiling water-I have gotten reel seats and tip tops off vintage rods using the boiling water method without destroying them. The rod sounds like a keeper and hope it goes well for you.


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Post 17 Dec 2022, 01:56 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 2513
Location: South of Joplin
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1908#p23280

Note that the set of new ferrules may fit well on one section and be too large on the other section, use thread to build up the smaller section if needed.


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Post 17 Dec 2022, 10:59 • #4 
Sport
Joined: 10/09/12
Posts: 26
Location: US-WA
Much thanks Jason and Trev. Exactly what I was looking for.

Let the fun begin!


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Post 17 Dec 2022, 14:11 • #5 
Administrator
Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7824
Location: Holly Springs, NC
It would help if you could post photos of the old ferrules.


Tom


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Post 17 Dec 2022, 18:47 • #6 
Sport
Joined: 03/15/22
Posts: 26
Location: Canon City Colorado
When removing ferrules I use a heat gun then dunk it in ice water. I will do that a couple of times generally and they come right off. Do not twist pull the ferrules off. I generally do that on bamboo fly rods. Clean existing glue off of the blank. Then measure the ferrule stations in 64ths to order what you will need. You may also have to fit the ferrule from the male to the female or order them fitted already.


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Post 18 Dec 2022, 17:49 • #7 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4971
Location: US-MT
I find a heat gun doesn't get things hot enough, and use a small alcohol torch.. Don't twist at all.

You can use a dremel cut-off wheel too, be very careful


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Post 19 Dec 2022, 09:16 • #8 
Master Guide
Joined: 12/19/07
Posts: 398
Location: US-MI
Best advice I was ever given. Apply the heat slowly. Think of it as cooking a large roast not searing a steak.


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Post 19 Dec 2022, 12:21 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8933
Location: US-ME
No. Here is the fastest and safest way. Rig a wire pull to the ferrule or leave it assembled and start with the female. Quick high heat from a gas flame to barrel of the female ferrule. It heats, the glue melts and--remember, you are pulling all the while--the ferrule comes off the instant the glue melts. The glue itself, nor the blank, never gets hotter than its melting point. If you use a wire pull, that signals your fingertips that the ferrule is getting hotter than necessary. Stop. Try again.

Quick heat releases thermo plastic cement best. Pull straight as the heat is applied. The ferrule is off before much heat at all gets to the blank.

There should be no reason to twist; that just risks abraiding the blank or twisting the fibers.

You can use pliers or vice grips if you dont care about damaging the old female ferrule. Once it's off, it can be used as a pull--reassemble, shim for tighteness if need be--for removing the male ferrle. Quick high heat. Pull straight.

Heat-release epoxy may take a little more gradual approach. Thermo plastic ferrule cement is easier and perfectly adequate for a repair. It held the one you are replacing on, didn't it? Pick a ferrule style that enables a neat wrap up over the barrel. It's a secondary aid to hold the ferrule, and also provides a signal in the form of a thread gap opening, if the ferrule loosens.

As for sizing, you can get precision measuring devices, but a simple gauge, visual sizing chart, or even a ruler are fine for discerning 64ths.


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Post 19 Dec 2022, 16:23 • #10 
Administrator
Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7824
Location: Holly Springs, NC
29guy wrote:
Hoping someone will advise me on how to pick the correct size ferrule pair to replace my badly worn ones (past the chrome and into the brass).

The rod is an older St. Croix 7 ft., 2 piece, in dark tobacco colored fiberglass.

How bad is the fit? Missing chrome plate looks ugly, but isn't necessarily a problem. Most chrome plating is only a couple ten thousandths thickness. Posting a couple cell phone photos would help us assess the old ferrules.

In my opinion, ferrules that fit too tight are a bigger problem than ferrules that fit too loose. Cane rod makers have ways to compress female ferrules and reshape or add plating to male ferrules. Even the dreaded "pliers bites" can sometimes be repaired. So before you remove the ferrules...

Give the ferrules a very thorough cleaning (see here for cleaning advice). Then reassess the fit. If the ferrules don't come apart during casting, the best thing is to leave them be. If the ferrules pull apart a bit too easily, a small amount of paraffin wax or beeswax may be enough to snug them up. Clean and rewax a couple times a season and they will last much longer than expected.

Finding new ferrules that fit significantly better than the ones you have isn't always a plug-n-play repair. Inexpensive chrome plated brass ferrules tend to be rather tight. Good fitting nickel silver ferrules are pricey. Once installed, often the new ferrules have to be 'fitted'. To me replacement is a last resort.


Tom


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Post 23 Feb 2024, 14:02 • #11 
Guide
Joined: 12/07/17
Posts: 128
Location: Long Island, NY
whrlpool or jgestar, do you know vendors for good quality NS or chrome plated brass ferrules at reasonable price?


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Post 23 Feb 2024, 16:33 • #12 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8933
Location: US-ME
One of our commercial members can give a way better answer than I can, especially on good brands or suppliers. Or a hobby builder who has selected a ferrule set recently.


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Post 24 Feb 2024, 01:04 • #13 
Administrator
Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7824
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Radding wrote:
vendors for good quality NS or chrome plated brass ferrules at reasonable price?

Tough question ending in a deep rabbit hole. There aren't as many options as their used to be. Aluminum Size-O-Matic are not available anymore. So you are left with; expensive nickel silver ferrules made for the cane rod market, new-old-stock ferrules from Rick's Rods, a lucky eBay buy, or chrome/nickel plated brass.

First off, read this long diatribe on ferrules still available at the Golden Witch site. As Russ notes several times, figuring out the right size is not easy. At the very least you will need a good pair of calipers. Removing the old ferrule and measuring the bare glass blank will help get the correct size.

Nickel silver - look at Proof Fly Fishing, Bellinger, REC, and the other usual suspects in the cane rod building community. Expect to $50 or more for a pair of ferrules. Also expect to lap the ferrules to fit. Make sure your rod is worth the price and effort. For what it is worth, a well fit set of SuperZ ferrules is a joy.

New-old-stock ferrules (image below) - call Rick's Rods and ask about their NOS ferrules. Rick has amazing things on his shelves. Most of Rick's stock are drawn nickel silver ferrules, which I just love. Ask how much you will need to adjust the ferrules to get a good fit.

Plated brass - check out Jann's Netcraft and Mudhole. Perhaps a few others will show up in an online search. Ask the vendor how they determine their ferrule sizes. Most brass ferrules appear to be step down sizes. Unlike nickel silver ferrules, plated brass can't be 'adjusted' without lapping through the plating. What you get is what you get. These are cheap so buy a couple pairs and use the best set.

Check out Dale Clemens, Fiberglass Rod Making, Everett Garrison's A Master's Guide to Building a Bamboo Fly Rod, or Stuart Kirkfield's The Fine Bamboo Fly Rod: A Master's Secrets of Restoration and Repair for details on installing ferrules.


Tom



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Post 24 Feb 2024, 09:24 • #14 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/12/07
Posts: 1296
Location: western Massachusetts
I am no expert on metal ferrules, but I recently replaced ferrules on a vintage Phillipson Orvis using NOS from Rick's Rods ( +1 for them). So, I am fresh from the fight as they say.

First, measure, measure, measure. Measure the female, measure the male, measure the blank (both ends). Calipers are not enough, measure the male slide, and the rod blanks with a micrometer. Tell the supplier as much as you can. If the ferrules are nickel silver, you will have to lap them.

In addition to the references so ably supplied by Tom, for lapping, there are a couple of youtube videos that helped me. Two are: "lapping a female ferrule for bamboo rods," and "Final fitting a male ferrule," both by CaneBuilder.

Check them out - John


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Post 24 Feb 2024, 17:04 • #15 
Guide
Joined: 12/07/17
Posts: 128
Location: Long Island, NY
Thanks all


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