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Post 03 Nov 2022, 06:38 • #1 
Sport
Joined: 07/27/21
Posts: 46
Location: WV,MD,NC,SC,TN,NY but mostly PA
Hello board,

I'm currently working on my first fly rod build and was curious about a few guide sizes.
The rod is a Fenwick FL72-6 I extended to 6'5".

Placement I can figure out between all the modern guide spacing charts for a 6'6" and the Fenwick Chart for the 605.
They line up for the most part.
My plan is to split the difference, tape the guides on and try it out. Adjust as needed.

The sizes of the guides are pretty straight forward according to the charts I've seen except for two things: Tip Top size and stripping guide size.

The stripping guide on some lists a 10mm for 6' and a 12mm 6'6". Others list a 10mm for 6',6'6",7'
And a 12mm for 7'6".

Would you go with a 10mm or 12mm.

I'm also not finding much on what tip top size is recommended. I would like it slightly oversized.

What would you recommend?

Thanks again and forgive my ignorance.


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Post 03 Nov 2022, 08:32 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/12/07
Posts: 1292
Location: western Massachusetts
Hello,

There is nothing to forgive, those are good questions.

There are just 2 Tiptop sizes for a fly rod: standard and large. Forget all that stuff about choosing tube size and ring size - that is for spin rods. All you need to choose is tube size, which is measured in 64ths of an inch. You get that measurement by using a tip gauge, or getting the blank tip size from the manufacturer. A tip of 5/64=5.0 tip tube size. For a 6' 6" rod, you will want the smaller, standard size ring. Large ring tiptops are common for heavy rods and saltwater rods because of the heavier line and big knots involved. If you are not sure what tube size to buy, you could order one size lower and one size larger along with the size you think it is. They are cheap enough, and you will probably use the extras on another rod.

As for stripping guides, line weight, rod size, and fish species usually dictate size. You would do just fine with a size 10 for lines 5 and smaller, and size 12 with lines 6 and larger. If the rod is a 1, 2,or 3 weight, you might be able to use an 8. There has been a trend toward using even larger strippers on the heavier rods, but you are not going there with this one.

Welcome to the obsession!


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Post 03 Nov 2022, 09:22 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4966
Location: US-MT
Is a real personal decision, and you can't go wrong.

I would use the smaller stripper, and the smaller tip top loop

Big guides became the current fad a while ago. Stick with the smaller stuff.


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Post 03 Nov 2022, 12:15 • #4 
Sport
Joined: 07/27/21
Posts: 46
Location: WV,MD,NC,SC,TN,NY but mostly PA
Thank you both!


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Post 03 Nov 2022, 21:03 • #5 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/26/21
Posts: 383
Location: North West Georgia
If I were you, I would buy an extra snake guide so you can space the stripping guide back much closer to the grip than what you typically see. Generally, Ive found that most commercially build 6'6" and shorter rods, be they 2 section or three, are very prone to allowing the line to slip backwards through the guides while fishing. Often, these rods have the stripping guide placed very far down the blank from the grip. My FF605 is a good example of this. When I built my troutsmiths 6' 2/3 I placed the stripping guide much closer to the grip. I find this much more comfortable to fish. Good luck!


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Post 03 Nov 2022, 21:42 • #6 
Sport
Joined: 07/27/21
Posts: 46
Location: WV,MD,NC,SC,TN,NY but mostly PA
Interesting.

I will consider your suggestion.
It makes sense to me.

Not that it matters for your well received point but this 6'5" is a one piece.


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Post 03 Nov 2022, 22:01 • #7 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/26/21
Posts: 383
Location: North West Georgia
Very interesting! How do you plan to wrap such a long section?


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Post 04 Nov 2022, 05:00 • #8 
Sport
Joined: 07/27/21
Posts: 46
Location: WV,MD,NC,SC,TN,NY but mostly PA
Carefully. :)

I'm not sure what you mean.
Keep in mind I have zero experience. I was considering doing it by hand. I have an amazing amount of patience and I'm very meticulous when working with detail and with small components.

Likely a byproduct of building military electronics for a living .


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Post 04 Nov 2022, 06:43 • #9 
Sport
Joined: 10/27/21
Posts: 88
Location: Georgia
You can build a very simple hand wrapper and use a large book for thread tensioning. that's what I do. it works for me as a beginner. it looks something like this without all the bells and whistles.


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Post 04 Nov 2022, 06:44 • #10 
Sport
Joined: 07/27/21
Posts: 46
Location: WV,MD,NC,SC,TN,NY but mostly PA
That is pretty much what I did.
I assumed from his comment there was something I'm not aware of


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Post 04 Nov 2022, 07:21 • #11 
Sport
Joined: 10/27/21
Posts: 88
Location: Georgia
I see, I had visions of trying to wrap thread with nothing to hold the rod. I figured I'd try to save you from snapping the thing over your knee. haha.


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Post 04 Nov 2022, 07:30 • #12 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/26/21
Posts: 383
Location: North West Georgia
Sorry, I asked a vague question and then went to sleep.

Yep, with a blank that long all in one piece, it may be slightly more challenging to manage wrapping at the tip end of the rod. Wrapping the butt end, I doubt it will make a difference at all. The stand Goose shows is a great idea, Im sure it will get you through fine. As for thread tension, I set the spool in a coffee cup, run it through a book, then over to the blank.

What is your plan for the grip?


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Post 04 Nov 2022, 10:10 • #13 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 01/02/12
Posts: 1859
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Because the blank you are wrapping is a one piece doesn’t mean it has to stay a one piece unless that is your personal preference. Making it a two piece rod certainly adds to it’s portability.


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Post 04 Nov 2022, 10:48 • #14 
Sport
Joined: 07/27/21
Posts: 46
Location: WV,MD,NC,SC,TN,NY but mostly PA
No doubt. I'm not Vince Cummings who hand wrapped rods and was a master:)

Yeah a 2 piece would make for ease of travel.
1 pc my preference though.
I have a system for transportation I use and it works well. This certainly isn't my first one piece, I own a bunch from 7' to 6'.

There is just something about the feel of a one piece, I can't get over it.
This very model 72-6 and 72-5, I own some 1 pc and 2 PC models, the two piece feels dramatically different in my opinion.
YMMV.

No worries BrookieBoy, I just wasn't sure what you meant.
The grip is a 6" snub nose and the reel seat is a dual ringed with blued hardware spalted maple from RL Reel Seats. Black agate winding check black nickel ring hook keeper, H&H English twist black guides, a black nickel brown tiger agate stripper to match the reel seat and Fuji Ultra Poly thread size A in black and golden rod tied in a bumble bee like fashion.


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Post 04 Nov 2022, 13:11 • #15 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5561
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
The guide questions are always a challenge. I personally use PacBay chrome snake guides for vintage glass rods, especially fenwicks.
I also would go with a size 9 or 10 pack bay XBG chrome boat guide guide for a 5wt rod with XSNG snake guides. with a standard size tip top.

Snake guides come in "lite wire" or "standard" and can be chrome, stainless or plated (with some other coating).
And tiptops come in standard, large and extra large loops (archfly gave a great explaination of the tube sizes).

One bit of advice, order a few tip tops (size 5, 5.5 or 6) or try and measure the tiptop and bracket what you order. I don't know what an FL72 will take, but my guess is a 5.5. I just stock different sizes and see what fits. Shipping kills you on guides, so ordering a few extra is easier than re-ordering.

I need to start building again. I don't think I built a rod last winter.


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