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Post 22 Aug 2022, 11:06 • #1 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 02/26/14
Posts: 3578
Location: US-MN
I was gluing on ferrules on a bamboo blank and I don't know what happened (I must have twisted it when binding down the tabs with string), but one of the tip ferrules wound up with the taps on edges, not the flats.

I used Rod Dancer slow cure epoxy. I warmed up the ferrule enough to twist it just a bit to line up the tabs on the flats.

Then I wondered if the epoxy is still "good" or should I have removed the ferrule cleaned out the epoxy and do it over?

I tried to move the ferrule and pull it off, now that is is cooled, and it sure seems like it is holding good as ever.

What do you think, is it ok?

If not, what is the best way to get the epoxy out of the ferrule?

Thanks for any advice, I appreciate it!


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Post 22 Aug 2022, 12:34 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/03/07
Posts: 2055
Location: Marble Falls, Texas
I’ve not used Rod Dancer export but I have made minor adjustments such as yours without issues.

I don’t know what the best method to remove epoxy from ferrules would be, but I’ve let some sit a couple of weeks in DNA and then cleaned with a cotton swab or folded pipe cleaner. I’d imagine acetone would be even quicker.

Let us know how it goes.


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Post 25 Aug 2022, 15:39 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 07/11/14
Posts: 1784
Location: urban Colorado
if it's holding then it's probably good for another decade or two..

when removing epoxy there aren't any good ways. My preference is burn baby burn ;-)
Heat until it degrades and can be reamed out with a small rats tail file..


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Post 26 Aug 2022, 08:17 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Then use thermoplastic ferrule cement. A ferrule is an easy to damage component and subject to wear as well. And its glue joint to the rod is what you want to fail in the event of excess stress at that point, rather than the rod itself. The glue joint doesn't need to be stronger than the materials adhered,or one of them, the blank in this case, is the one that may be damaged. Glue it "permanently" and sooner or later comes the nuisance of removing it. Thermo plastic cement and a backup wrap from the blank up the ferrule are sufficient and enable easy repair or replacement.


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Post 26 Aug 2022, 13:41 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 2498
Location: South of Joplin
Bohning Ferr-L-Tite works for ferrules, tiptops etc. often can be reused with just a match or candle to reactivate it.
I use epoxy on concrete.


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Post 26 Aug 2022, 13:53 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 02/12/16
Posts: 4094
Location: USA-CO
Also recommend the Ferr-L-Tite. It seems to have a higher melting point than regular tiptop cement (it's certainly harder at room temperature) and is used in archery for arrow assembly. I use it on tiptops as well.


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Post 27 Aug 2022, 07:21 • #7 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 02/26/14
Posts: 3578
Location: US-MN
Good stuff! Thanks for the advice guys!


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