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Post 07 Jul 2022, 20:46 • #1 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/07/18
Posts: 428
Location: US-MA
Hi Folks,

Just picked up my 3rd new to me used Cortland rod - a 7.5' FR2000 1-625-1 that is a translucent brown blank in pretty good shape. When I was putting a 1494 Medalist on it and securing it the reel seat loosened. I was able to get it off pretty easily so now I will need to clean it up a bit and use some sort of epoxy to secure it back to the blank. The rod seems like it will work well with a 5wt line and maybe even a 4DT.

Couple of questions:

1). Can I used some Gorilla Glue Construction Adhesive? I used to use Devcon 2-ton epoxy on rods I built 20+ years ago - but did not find any at big box store and picked up the Gorilla Glue Adhesive as it said it was waterproof and it had a broader temp range than the 5 minute epoxy.

2). Is this ferrule considered an oversleeve design, or is considered a tip-over butt ferrule style - seems like something I should easily be able to know, but I have been doing some research and now I am questioning that it is a tip over butt ferrule. It is much more pronounced than on the Pro-Crest 1-619-1 and 1-620-1 that are more like my Fenwick 856-5.

Few pics:










Thank you!

Pete


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Post 07 Jul 2022, 23:21 • #2 
Administrator
Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7811
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Labrax wrote:
Can I used some Gorilla Glue Construction Adhesive?
Absolutely not. It's evil. Gorilla Glue 'foams' uncontrollably as it sets. At best the glue will only ooze out from under the reelseat. At worst, the reelseat will move as the glue expands. Once dry the stuff is almost impossible to remove without damaging the underlying surface. Gorilla Glue is a marvel of marketing, not science.

Standard 5 minute epoxy is a better choice. You want a glue that holds well, but releases with the application of heat. Epoxy stays where you put it and the drips clean up with acetone (before it sets). Nitrile gloves are highly recommended.

The old reelseat has salt deposits under the hood. You might want to soak it in warm water with a shot of vinegar to clean it up.

You didn't show the male ferrule. I think those rods had a spigot ferrule with a sleeve over the female. Start with a DT5 line, but try a 6 weight line too. Cortland rated their rods very well.


Tom


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Post 08 Jul 2022, 08:32 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
To be precise, it is helpful to think of "tip-over-butt" as the Feralite type, where the rod is manufactured on two separate manderels, the tip section having a taper such that it alone--without other components--slides over the end of the butt section. That rod definitely has a sleeve, overwrapped. Someone will remember or search up a pic, whether it was a reinforcement sleeve, a la' Berkley, over the blank itself, the butt having a spigot. If not, it's a sleeve-ferruled rod. Either way, the blank itself has continuity of i.d. at the ferrule point, and a sleeve or spigot forms the joint.

Easy repair on the reel seat. Many mild adhesives work fine, the heat-release epoxy jgestar mentioned being a go-to. However, one more tip. If the reel seat let go, the arbor or its glue joint, and the grip glue may also be weak. Check carefully with a little twisting or prodding. The easiest time to repair/replace those is now while the reel seat is off. Be happy if it all seems a weakened. Way better than having something damaged externally and being glued on so securely that it is a nuisance to remove. If that glue has lost its grip after all this time, the whole business will come off in seconds, leaving an easy repair on a rod well worth keeping up to snuff.


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Post 08 Jul 2022, 09:02 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4966
Location: US-MT
Cortland had two different FR2000, the classic tip over butt (which seem to be the more common) and the oversleeve model like you have. There is no spigot, just an oversleeve. In my hands, the oversleeve rods are softer.
I have a 7ft oversleeve rod like yours, it too is rated 5/6, a 6wt really over loads it. Might have to go grab it, it hasn't gone fishing in at least two years. So many rods, so little time.

Always wondered if two different outfits supplied the blanks.


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Post 08 Jul 2022, 10:59 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/12/07
Posts: 1292
Location: western Massachusetts
majicwrench wrote:
Always wondered if two different outfits supplied the blanks.


Yes, that sleeve ferrule reminds me of some late Browning Sila-Flex ferrules.


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Post 08 Jul 2022, 12:47 • #6 
Master Guide
Joined: 01/04/18
Posts: 397
Location: Belair Maryland/Swanton Maryland
Hey guys
Here’s a pic of the Og swelled/over-sleeve and the later flush style sleeve


I only have 2 of the Og swelled/oversleeve style rods..

1 is a 7 pc? pack rod so can’t speak to action compared to the later rods I’ll have to check it tonight

I also just picked up the 8ft 6/7wt swelled oversleeve rod from Carlz and we both agreed that it’s a true 7wt
it’s got a little more in the butt

Seems a bit crispier than both of our later Fr 2000 slim sleeved 8ft 6/7 rods
which are more 6wts than a 7.
Softer mid and butt just a bit more noodlely..than my earlier rod

On the tips I’m kinda partly with Majicwrench
In that I feel my earlier swelled rod has a softer tip . Maybe it’s the stiffer butt that’s throwing me off .

Time to dig out the Cortlands tonight..

There’s a slight scrim difference in the Og swelled oversleeve rods vs the later rods..

The older Fr rods scrim looks slightly similar to the brown pro crest/crown rods with a more defined weave and slightly more opaque Vs the later rods with a less defined weave and ever so slightly more translucent

There were some taper variances on the older crown and procrest rods in the 8 ft range also .
As well as a couple of ferrule options

Couldn’t speak to any other of the Swelled Oversleeve rods though .

I have a later FR style Cortland Blank custom rod I forget the bl# I’ll have to check that as well

I really like a lot of the old Cortland rods ..
Lots of diversity in their rods over the years
Cool stuff.

Hope to see your Fr back in action after you get that reel seat epoxied back on .

I had an Fr reel seat come loose while fishing that let the reel spin 180* on a back cast
freaked me out a bit.. :eek
Scotto


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Post 10 Jul 2022, 16:24 • #7 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/07/18
Posts: 428
Location: US-MA
Thank you for the replies! Here is a pic of the FR2000 compared to Pro-Crest 1-619-1, to show ferrules.



Good idea to clean out the old seat and to also test the arbor that is there, as now is best time to fix it if suspect.

This rod seems a bit more ‘flexible’ than the same length pro-crest. If it roll casts like the cousin Pro-Crest I will be very happy.


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Post 11 Jul 2022, 07:31 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Let's be clear with terminology again. "Sleeve" is, by definition a separate componet that fits over the blank. The casual word "oversleeve" is nothing different, and, since redundant, seldom used in descrbing sleeve ferrules, a common and solid ferrule system in the days of Phillipson, Fenwick's yellow blanks, and several others. A sleeve ferrule has a tapered inner diameter that matches the outer diameter of the blank for the length of the sleeve. The blank is cut at a point that would will be about midway within the sleeve when it is over the rod sections, joining them by mild friction fit over a relatively large tapered surface. The sleeve is typically installed on the tip section and wrapped over, at minimum, a sanded taper down onto the blank, and at its end. It serves as the female. The male is the upper end of the blank where it was cut. The sleeve is a separate component; a metal ferrule could be installed just as well if the sleeve were to be removed.

Casual use sometimes blends these to tip over butt, but that is a distinct style in which the ferrule is formed integrally with the blank itself. Jgestar described the other types here, again, for clarity in describing the ferrule type on a particular rod. In the same way, no need to refer to an inner spigot. The spigot's outside diameter matches the inner diameter/taper of the sections to be joined. Permanently installed in the lower of the two sections, it protrudes to form the male of the ferrule. The female is the inner of the hollow blank itself. viewtopic.php?f=32&t=74560&view=unread#p412531

It's not always easy to see the type in a photograph. In hand, very easy. A sleeve will be visible (but different from a "swell" in the blank itself) even if thread-wrapped, and if that's not enough, a look into the blank will reveal its cut end about half way up the sleeve. If it can't be seen, sliding a toothpick or similar probe will enable one to feel the end of the blank.


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Post 11 Jul 2022, 20:52 • #9 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/07/18
Posts: 428
Location: US-MA


Here is a better picture - having the darnedest time with a MacBook that I switched to and a Apple iPhone - never had issues editing pictures on Android phone or on Windows or Linux systems....

Thank you whrlpool for the info on the ferrule systems!

I used 5 minute epoxy on the reel seat after checking the integrity of the arbor that was on there and cleaning up the inside of the seat with sandpaper and Everclear and sanded down the arbor a bit. Maybe I'll throw a reel on there tomorrow and go out for some lawn casting. Appreciate the advise on NOT using the Gorilla Glue Construction Adhesive.

Pete


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Post 20 Jul 2022, 19:21 • #10 
Sport
Joined: 02/19/08
Posts: 26
I have always thought the Cortland FR series were great rods and great value over the years.
Now that some time has passed it is nice to see them attain a place in the classic rod category. Enjoy your new found treasure ! Best Paul in OR


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Post 23 Jul 2022, 08:11 • #11 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/07/18
Posts: 428
Location: US-MA
Thank you Paul.

I am new to the Cortland glass rods and like them very much. The Cortland rods I picked up are definitely different feeling from a Wonderod 7.5' 6wt in perceived weight and action.


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