It is currently 18 Aug 2022, 08:01


New Topic Add Reply
Author Message
Suggestions Appreciated
Post 24 May 2022, 23:05 • #1 
Master Guide
Joined: 01/11/17
Posts: 388
Location: Missouri Ozarks
Some 25 plus years ago I acquired several “now” vintage fiberglass spinning and bait casting rod blanks. They sat in a corner of my shop until I found this website and was inspired to build them into finished rods. Now these are some of my favorite rods.

There are two Fenwick blanks that I’d like to build, but not sure how because of their unique characteristics. For the sake of brevity I’ll address one of the rod blanks in this post.

It is a Fenwick SC 622. I believe the SC denotes a “spin cast” rod and it has a metal ferrell on the butt end that would fit into a spin/casting rod handle. There are no other designations inscribed on the rod blank defining rod action, line or lure weight. The rod blank is only five feet long and with a spin/cast handle a finished rod should be close to six feet. It has a very light action that I would describe as between ultra light and light action.





Even if I could find a spin/bait cast handle to fit the ferrel, I believe this would make a better spinning rod. To make this into a spinning rod would require removal of the ferrell and probably a stint glued into the butt end of the rod blank that a cork spinning rod handle could be built. Something like this 8 inch handle on another Fenwick ultra light.



I can’t see building the cork handle on the blank because that would have an effect on the action.

The stint would obviously need to be about 10 inches long to accommodate the 8 inch cork handle and 2 inches to be glued up into the rod blank.

My concern is with that lengthy of a stint, will it pose any issues as the only stints I’ve used were 3 to 4 inches long to accommodate a fly reel seat.

Also, if I can’t find a solid fiberglass stint of this length, could a substitute stint of a wooden dowel be used.

Finally, would prefer not to cut the metal ferrel off. Can it be removed by soaking in hot water or some other source of heat that would not damage the rod blank?

Or, am I missing something that would work even better? All suggestions appreciated.


Top
  
Quote
Post 25 May 2022, 07:37 • #2 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/24/12
Posts: 443
Location: US-MI
Hi,
You should be able to slide a spin grip/reel seat over the ferrule, right? I have custom length stents and a Tennessee grip that looks like it could work:

Stents:
https://www.proofflyfishing.com/product ... 5826&_ss=r

Tennessee grip:
https://www.proofflyfishing.com/product ... 75fa&_ss=r

Thanks,

Matt


Top
  
Quote
Post 25 May 2022, 09:58 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/12/07
Posts: 1255
Location: western Massachusetts
Matt offers a nice grip there. Personally, I would lop that male aluminum ferrule off in a "NY secont" for all the aggravation it's going to cause. If you want, try some gentle heat directly to the ferrule, or give boil-in-a bag a try.

You can use a wooden dowel for a stent, but I think a 10" glass or graphite would be lighter, and the slight flex you would gain might make the rod feel more comfortable in-hand. You probably only need overlap the blank 1.5", or 2" max, so a 12" section out of an old rod, might be all you need. Try to get as close as you can to the inside taper of the blank.


Top
  
Quote
Post 24 Jun 2022, 00:00 • #4 
Master Guide
Joined: 01/11/17
Posts: 388
Location: Missouri Ozarks
I took the advice of both respondents above and got an eleven inch solid fiberglass stint from Matt Proof and used a cutting disc on a dremel tool that made short work of cutting off the metal ferrel from the butt end of the blank.

I built this rod for my wife, who is an artist, and she picked out the components for the handle, guides and thread color of black & gold to simulate the colors of a bee. And, as you can see in the photo below, she named the rod, “Busy Bee.”

I built the handle with burl cork, yellow spacers, buffalo horn, and two kinds of stabilized wood that my wife picked out to represent the “Bee” theme.

After shaping the handle and applying several coats of Tru Oil, I glued it onto the stint with U-40 Rod Bond epoxy. .

The fiberglass stent required several arbors that I made with 1/4 inch masking tape to fit about 2.5 inches inside the butt end of the blank. This stint and arbors were throughly coated with U-40 Rod Bond epoxy before being installed in the butt end of the rod blank.

Bought a Shimano UL reel in the black & gold color theme to complete the outfit.

Thanks to Matt and archfly for your suggestions which led to a fun project.









Top
  
Quote
Post 24 Jun 2022, 05:09 • #5 
Guide
Joined: 05/02/13
Posts: 194
Location: Almonte, ON, Canada
Well done! I like it


Top
  
Quote
Post 24 Jun 2022, 10:29 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/12/07
Posts: 1255
Location: western Massachusetts
You're welcome Baldknobber, I really like what you did, and how you did it. I really like that grip/reelseat, it shows that when a woman artist gets involved in rod design you can get a delightful and different esthetic. Buffalo horn! How many women rodbuilders are there out there? We could use a few more, I'm sure.

Anyway, thank you for showing the results, I like it!


Top
  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  

New Topic Add Reply



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Chase-da-dog, csmielke, El Duderino and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Jump to:  
Google
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group