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Post 20 Feb 2022, 21:22 • #1 
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Disclaimer: I'm new!

I'm stripping a Berkley Spartan with a cracked sleeve over the spiggot ferrule; I need to figure out what to do with it, but would like a better understanding of spiggot ferrules, and to better understand this conversation.

This is how I understand it: the blank is hollow, so a solid rod is "glued" into one half of the blank, becoming the male half. Since the female half is still hollow, there is no stop for the male half to bottom out against, so assembling the two halves depends on friction and a tight fit to stay together, like any ferrule.

But you want that friction and tight fit to come into play BEFORE the two hollow ends meet, hence the need for the gap?

And the sleeve (or thread wraps on both halves) is to prevent splitting the hollow ends from pressure introduced by the solid rod?


Last edited by RJonesRCRV on 26 Feb 2022, 23:53, edited 2 times in total.

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Post 20 Feb 2022, 22:53 • #2 
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You understand correctly.

Larry


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Post 21 Feb 2022, 10:03 • #3 
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Pictures of your crack would help....if it is on the oversleeve or the blank itself. Some Berkelys had oversleeves, and some did not.


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Post 21 Feb 2022, 11:05 • #4 
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Its the oversleeve. I'm not going for looks, just function, so I'll probably cut it off and wrap both halves. Trying to figure out the image upload.


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Post 21 Feb 2022, 11:30 • #5 
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More than you will need to know if you start here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=38734&p=364880&hilit=Berkley+sleeve#p364880 You could probably be fine with a spigot only or even a sleeve only--assuming they are fit well and taken care of. It's easy enough to repair/replace either or both.


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Post 21 Feb 2022, 11:32 • #6 
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From Andy, a film of super-wetting super glue (e.g. Zap pink-label) on the male ferrule.
Um, make sure you let that dry a day.


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Post 21 Feb 2022, 19:11 • #7 
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Post 22 Feb 2022, 11:48 • #8 
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I’m following.

Cracked, or just uneven and rough on the end. Can do light sanding evenly and in circles on low grit sand paper. It’s not been mashed has it? Lemme know what else we can do for ya.

I love old Berkleys and have stripped two of them and rebuilt one. If it’s bad enough, maybe find another Berkley on eBay.


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Post 22 Feb 2022, 12:26 • #9 
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It looks like j a short crack in the sleeve, with plenty of depth left before the blank itself engages the spigot. If that's the case, trimming away the cracked portion and rewrapping the sleeve should be adequate. BUT--inspect the the rest of the female to be sure the crack doesn't go past the blank itself, and to be sure there is no crack in the blank itself. Clean the exposed wall of the sleeve, and the walls of the blank before inspecting. Even if you only have to trim away the short split in the sleeve, you want to know why it split to begin with--not being kept clean, being assembled too snug, or too loosely are all possibilities--so as to prevent future damage. Before assembling, inspect and clean the spigot and any part of the blank the sleeve overlaps upon assembly. That will come out fine.


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Post 22 Feb 2022, 14:08 • #10 
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Thanks for the pictures, ya done good.
The oversleeve on Berkley's was mostly cosmetic... I would either push that back into shape, superglue then overwrap, or just trim a bit off of oversleeve. Either way is gonna work fine.

We had a discussion years ago on the oversleeves on B's, my theory is the sleeve hides the gap, people would see the gap, and try to shove tip and butt together till the tip split, so Berkley did the sleeve so folks couldn't see the gap. Oversleeve also adds some strength to the female.


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Post 27 Feb 2022, 00:17 • #11 
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I think I'll strip that white wrap off and try to push it into place and superglue it. It is a pretty clean break, the outside doesn't show any damage. It was broken when I bought it in 2020 for $25, it hasn't been an issue. The halves fit together nice and snug. My son and I have caught some bass, crappie, a bunch of bluegill and other panfish, and a bluefish.

I've read automotive touchup paint is fine; I assume ENAMEL?

Then I'll double the snakes to 6, plus tiptop and stripper guide, and a test coat of epoxy to see how well I can get it on.

UPDATE:

Found three cracks so I trimmed the bad part out and will thread wrap it when my thread and epoxy show up.



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Post 05 Apr 2022, 21:35 • #12 
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I got most of the old paint off the rod and the guides wrapped on. I was too cheap to spring for paint stripper for one project, so I just used a plastic scraper and razor blade to skate along the surface and pop off the paint; it came off pretty easily.

I like the translucent brown, so I will not paint it. And there are some small flecks of paint in the valleys between the fiberglass wraps. They don't bother me and kind of give it a unique look if you look close enough to see.

I'll do a test coat of Flex Seal on one of the wraps and surrounding area, and then try to coat the whole thing.

I have ordered two tip tops, and both have been too small. I tried reaming them out, but it just didn't work. That will be last to finish before the final coat of epoxy.

Then I noticed that my guide spacing looked funny on one guide. I somehow got the first snake 2" too far from the stripper guide. If it seems to allow too much belly in the line, I'll either add another in that gap or move it down. If it doesn't bother me, then I'll call it good.

This has been fun so far; its definitely time consuming though.





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Post 05 Apr 2022, 21:56 • #13 
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Great work.

Refurbishing these old rods is so much fun.


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