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Post 21 Oct 2020, 13:47 • #1 
Master Guide
Joined: 06/03/15
Posts: 424
Location: Weatherford TX.
OK so I just finished wrapping a Steffen 7’9” 3/4 wt.
I used size A nylon thread in a rust with a Red burgundy trim. I seen this color combination used here it really popped and looked beautiful.

Not mine!!! The rust got really dark brown and the red turned almost black. I’m using man-of-war varnish no color preserver. In my test area where I saw the results I started rubbing Varnish In the trim thread and letting dry before I used it...Not a whole lot of difference.
I’m looking for a semi translucent effect where you can still see the color of the thread without the rod over powering it.

Right now I have a black glass rod in front of me and I want it Black with blue trim blue or blue with black trim not sure yet but I want a translucent effect where I can still see the blue.

Then I have another MacFarland glass rod that is brown and I’m looking to do the same thing I tried on the other rod so I’m going to use a rust that complements the brown and a burgundy or ruby red trim that pops.

I started thinking I might need to use silk thread to accomplish this so I just ordered a bunch of silk thread in browns,reds & blues.
Along with some real color preserver and some Epoxy finish.

Steer me in the right direction please I’ll figure it out.


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Post 21 Oct 2020, 14:39 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8933
Location: US-ME
1. Digital pics taken in good lighting, considering digital display as well, don't always convey the color effect well.

2. Take your rod outside in natural light and look again. It may look better than you think if you see it for what it is and not what was expected. Sometimes a close-in color appearance is subtle at first, and distinct as you look. In contrast, a finish that "pops" at first becomes garrish as you look.

3. The underlying blank color affects the look of thread that isn't color preserved.

4. So does the finish clarity, most spar varnishes imparting a warm amber that adds character. Again, natural light shows this best.

5. Experiment with test wraps. Allow the finish to dry thoroughly. View in natural light.

6. A quicky approximation, at least enough sometimes to rule out a thread combination, is to wrap and moisten with a few drops of alcohol or mineral spirits. Watch it dry to see the range of possibilities.

7. Experimenting is the best way to figure it out to your liking.


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Post 21 Oct 2020, 16:42 • #3 
Master Guide
Joined: 06/03/15
Posts: 424
Location: Weatherford TX.
Whirlpool,
Thx You are pretty much correct sort of kind of.
I took the rod out into the sunlight....and bam I have Red not dark brown or black.

Thank you again I’ll just have to play around with these next two rods til I get it right.


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Post 21 Oct 2020, 18:05 • #4 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/01/12
Posts: 903
Location: Upstate NY
If you go the route of using color preserver, it will not give you that translucent look you are looking for, no matter the type of top finish you use. While both Silk and Nylon will give you that translucent look, certain colors of Silk will darker much more than Nylon, best to do some test wraps. Do them where your grip is going to be (if you don't have scrap sections of the same color as the blank), easy enough to remove once you are happy with your color combos.

In my opinion color preserver actually gives the thread a "dull appearance", it takes that luster away. If you really want trim bands to stand out and they are not more than 2 wraps, try NCP Nylon or Stay True Nylon. Like on that Black blank. Its going to be tough to get a Blue to really stand out on such a dark blank, if Blue is you trim choice.


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Post 22 Oct 2020, 08:23 • #5 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/14/06
Posts: 366
Location: US-TN
Clear shellac can be used as the CP to achieve the effect you want. The threads darken slightly but not nearly as much as varnish. It's really a semi-CP. It works under both varnish and epoxy.

It's best to mix fresh from flakes, get the Zinseer spray shellac and spray some into a small plastic measuring cup, the kind used for mixing finishes. This version has been dewaxed so top finishes will stick to it. The stuff in the can may work, but I'm never chanced it. Use 3 coats, but you'll need fewer top coats.


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