Ok so obviously there is a TON of info on this forum about reel seats. I have read through many of the threads but am having a hard time putting it all together. Here's what I'm hoping to do with this thread - learn why you as a rod builder choose one reel seat over another. Obviously there are aesthetic choices to consider. But there are also functionality choices to consider. And there may be a focus on authenticity, back to the original rod if its a restore job.

So here's the (multi part) question. What do considerations play into YOUR selection of a reel seat for your rod? When do you choose uplocking, downlocking, or slide band?

To make it easier, lets say you have the following rod blanks in your hands today. What reel seats would you choose for them?

7' 4/5wt Fisher blank (medium brown color)
7' 3wt Kabuto blank (white color)
9' 4wt graphite blank (black)

Yes I know this is a glass forum but I thought the graphite rod might throw some different ideas into the mix for reel seats.

I detest up locking reels, and years ago I was convinced by magazine writers that they were special to the point of changing the reel seats on three rods I owned at the time.
This very week I took the FF807 out and it reminded me of the folly of up locking- I simply don't have the three hands needed to efficiently mount the reel on one of these- one hand to hold the reel one hand to hold the rod upright and away from obstacles and two hands to manipulate the rings and screws, wait that's four hands. The rod will soon be for sale, think that's the third time this year that used it and got irritated each time.
I prefer a down locking aluminum seat that Phillipson (patented maybe?) used, but any down locker is always easier than any up locker. (unless the rod is short enough to hold tip down) because the thumb of the rod hand can push the upper ring up while the reel is seated, thus freeing two hands.
(on a side note I don't think anyone ever had a "balanced" rod/reel- a foot of line out or in spoils the finest balance)

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=41716&hilit=precious+metal

The most adaptable in custom builds. A section of the barrel can be cut out if an insert is wanted, and they can be shortened to liking as long as the span between hoods is sufficient for any reels that would be used. Downlocking will be the most likely position, but those with a removeable plug can be mounted uplocking, with the threaded length shortened, keeping the reel toward the butt of the rod, and reducing the length of the extended portion--again, so long as clearance is left for mounting the longest foot of any reel that would be used.

I favor uplocking but shortened to not have excessive length exposes at the butt.
Below 8’ cap and ring are my choice.

So, I hate uplocking reel seats. I just hate the way they look on a fly rod and this is completely aesthetic as I have had uplocking reel seats (on the litany of Sage rods I had) before the first time I moved away from graphite and got into boo. I cast those Sage rods just as well as I do with rods that have a downlocking reel seat. That extra inch or 1.5 inches that sticks out looks awfully awkward.

So my preference is for downlocking compared to uplocking.

Although also have to admit I would go for a cap and ring before a downlocking and in some cases a dual ring setup but only on short light line rods.

I am not a builder so my preferences are not important, however I have more than a few custom rods.

With just about every custom rod own, the builder had a preference which I deferred to if it was a signature thing. Many only gave the option of a single uplocking model, a screw-locking down locker for the longer, heavier models (or by preference) and a cap & ring.

With the exception a few where I specified, if I left it up to them I most often ended up with a cap & ring reel seat which is just fine by me.

I'll bite.

It's situational for me. Bigger rods (8-1/2ft and up, usually 4wt+ and faster action, especially if graphite) take uplockers, unless they're 2-hand rigs - those usually get downlockers. Cane rods 8ft+ and 5+ wt usually get uplocking seats.

Trout rods under about 8 foot, older/ vintage, or slower rods under ~6wt - they get downlockers, usually cap-n-ring seats on rods about 3/4 wt and down but not always. Almost all of my downlock seats are cap-n-ring. I really don't like down-threading seats on anything but switch and spey rods, and even then it's a little dicey.

There are always exceptions to the rules as well: my 082 Little ONE is a fast graphite 0 wt and I turned an uplocking seat in to a downlocker, and gave the rod a cute little fighting butt by putting a cork ball over the reel seat hood at the end of the rod. It's a neat, neat little rod.

I prefer down-locking - but up-locking protects the reel when I need to “stab” the rod butt into the dirt to help me crawl up a bank and out of a creek. LoL - I use my equipment hard, but I care for it too.

If classic looks is important, the down lockers are lovely. Functionally, I don't like to put the reel in the dirt. Since the OP mentioned graphite, trying to balance a rod by moving the reel down away from ones hand causes a problem, especially with longer, faster/stiffer rods. It makes stopping the rod at the end of the casting stroke much more difficult. Not a problem with softer rods where acceleration is not an issue.

Tony