Everyone develops their own techniques of covering wraps with epoxy so there isn't one correct way. My way is just something I came up with that works for me to achieve flat low build wraps. I work mostly with TM Lite but have used the same method with regular viscosity as well. Immediately after applying with a brush on a rod turner (about 10 rpm) I brace my hand on a rest and drag a small piece of index card or playing card on the wrap and it removes the excess and makes the epoxy flat and uniform thickness all around. I hold the strip of card about an inch back and use the "spring" pressure of the strip of card to apply just slight pressure. Then just wipe off the strip and use it on the next wrap. Before starting I cut several strips of different widths for the different sized guides. I use this same technique when covering the signature section using a piece of card a couple inches wide. Instead of just pulling the strip away after a revolution or two, I wipe downward to avoid a ridge. From there just proceed with hand turning or motor turning as normal.

Excellent TipTop! I too am of the opinion that several low buildup (3-4) applications result in the most "level" outcome. While 3-4 applications may sound excessive at first blush, the removal of excess finish from each application can result in a narrow, level wrap that still avoids thread ridges showing at the edges of the wraps. This can be attained with regular build or lite build epoxies. Others may disagree, which makes discussions like this interesting as we all continue learning.

This is very timely as I've been having my doubts about my epoxy job for a while. I think what has thrown me as I've read the forum over the last few years is what is meant when people say "soak the threads", or "very light coat". I guess I was thinking that meant pretty much just soak them and wipe it mostly off, where you can see quite a bit of the thread. But it sounds like I interpreted that wrong.

It also occurred to me that the issue of TM Lite drawing away from the edges and actually exposing thread (not simply footballing) seems worse with silk. So it's a finer line between not enough and too much (at least on first coat, again more with silk). But that's just a theory at this point. I'm about to do some more tests, using more on the first coat than I've been doing.

I rarely have a bubble because the way I mix doesn't make any. If I do see a bubble, it can easily be eliminated by blowing on it gently through a straw.

Thanks, tiptop! I will have to use this process on my next build.

None of the low viscosity or “lite” build 2 part tread finish epoxies have chemicals that “evaporate”, they have reactive dilutents. Nothing off gasses from them unless you add a solvent to thin them down even more.