I’ve got 4 7 1/2’ glass blanks. Right now they are 1 pc. I’m toying with the idea of making one a 4 pc. I’m figuring that spigot ferrules will be the easy way and I’ve done them before on 2 pc rods.
What’s the group’s opinion. Solid glass for the ferrules or cut up a second blank for hollow spigots? Or use two and try tip over ferrules.

Dang- I hadn’t thought of that ID surface effect !

I would cut up one of the blanks for spigot ferrules. You then have extra material for a stent on which to mount the reel seat. At one point I made both 5pc and 6pc rods, cutting spigots from one piece blanks.

Must be a broken graphite rod in a dumpster near you. Chances are that if I cut up one blank to try to make spigots for three others that I'd end up with diameters that didn't work on two of them.

I hadn't considered there was any flex in any spigot due to the short length and the fact that the rod will always be more flexible on either side of the thickened area, but perhaps you're right. The only spigot rods I've used were all graphite and rather stiff throughout.

well, that makes for a hinge, because it is absolutely impossible to get a glass spigot ferrule up to the bulk modulus of larger O.D. graphite.

@ bulldog: i combined glass ferrules with the inner section made of carbon.

That makes softer spigots, that bends with the rod and gives the stiffness/strength a that part of the spigot, where it is nessesary.
And I used glass outer ferrules ( is there a special word for this in english?) on carbon rods, to keep the rod bending under the ferrule. Here an example, where I cut a solid 1- pieces carbon blank into 2 pieces and added an extra pieces of hollow blank for more lenght. The outer ferrule is made of fairly thin wall glass covered by a layer of thin dark grey fireline ( a coated braided line for spin fishing). (Picture of the ferrule on page 2)
http://rutenbauforum.de/rodbuilding/thr ... r=0&page=1


The whole new spigot doesn´t have to be strong. I often use for the spigot material of lesser wallthickness and higher bending than the blank itself. Only the shorter inner part must have the right strength - wallstrength and bending strength.
The overall length of the spigot is only nessesary to get enough friction to keep the 2 blank pieces together while casting.
To transfer the power of the upper blank piece to the lower one you need less length - let´s say 1 " or even less.
The rest of the spigot you need for the fricton.
The next link is an example of an 11´ carp rod, that I made out of an 9´ spinning blank + an extra pieces for more length. Then I cut the blank into 4 pieces and connected them with spigots.
That is a rod for hard work, casting and fish fighting, so the spigot should never be weeker than the blank itself.
http://rutenbauforum.de/rodbuilding/thr ... vierteilig.

@ majicwrench
My very first spigot ( made 37 years ago) broke, when I repaired an broken Hardy fibalite spinning rod, because the wallstrength was not good enough. This never happend again.
You are right, that on many parts of a rod it is no problem to have a spigot with the same wall as the blank itself, especially at the more bending parts of a rod towards the tip, because the blank will bend away before it might brake. But it would allways be weeker than the blank.
But for the lower but section part, where you have the most power for casting and fish fighting, I never use a spigot of only the same wallthickness. When you have a spigot of the same material like the blank, than the spigot would be weeker than the blank itself as the spigots diameter is lower.
Only for a outer ferulle that is ok. because of the larger diameter of the ferrule.

I think the word you want may be "sleeve".

Now my brain hurts from info overload.
I’ve cut the blank and have some materials gathered.
The quick and dirty solution is to use metal ferrules but thats not going to happen if I can help it.