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Post 05 May 2020, 21:46 • #1 
Guide
Joined: 10/06/16
Posts: 172
Location: Casco Bay, ME
Hi there. Looking to strip down a partially built blank and I'm planning on taking the reel seat and cork off the butt section. I just want to double check here before I drop the butt section of the Sage SFL 789-2 in boiling water or put it under a heat gun that it won't compromise the blank. I've done this with graphite that I didn't really care about, but want to keep the integrity of this blank intact. Any thoughts or cautions appreciated. Thank you


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Post 05 May 2020, 21:54 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5566
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
Boiling water -- OK
Heat gun -- Not OK

Boiling water is limited to 212F Heatgun can melt things. (a butane flame can as well)


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Post 05 May 2020, 22:23 • #3 
Guide
Joined: 10/06/16
Posts: 172
Location: Casco Bay, ME
Thanks for the insight Carlz. I was leaning toward the boiling water method as I've had luck with this in the past. Good to know it's the safest. Appreciate it.


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Post 06 May 2020, 05:17 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/12/07
Posts: 1296
Location: western Massachusetts
Yes, be careful. I am currently building on that very same model and it is an amazingly thin-walled blank.


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Post 06 May 2020, 10:28 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8931
Location: US-ME
Avoid a lot of twisting in effort to break the glue bond; depending on the adhesive used, sometimes the blank may twist first. Other than that, I guess it is pick your low-risk method. Cork can be carved off in a matter of seconds, obviously with care not to gouge the blank. Reel seats, if not trying to save for reuse, can be peeled away after light grinding or a long shallow cut. If you mounted the seat to begin with, you know what's under it and what adhesive was used so you could boil and see what comes easy, then peel/scrape anything left of whatever spacers it was mounted on.


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Post 06 May 2020, 19:03 • #6 
Guide
Joined: 10/06/16
Posts: 172
Location: Casco Bay, ME
Thank you for all the insights!! I appreciate it.


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Post 06 May 2020, 19:37 • #7 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4971
Location: US-MT
I tire of boiling water, and haven't used such in years and years. A heat gun or my torch works wonders. It is gonna take a LOT of heat to get down to the blank, the seat will have some sort of arbor tween it and blank. I have never damaged a blank with heat. BUT.....

And as the wise man said, don't twist too soon. And don't bother asking me how I learned that one.


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Post 06 May 2020, 22:41 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5566
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
majicwrench wrote:
And as the wise man said, don't twist too soon. And don't bother asking me how I learned that one.

You can always add a stent. (don't bother asking how I know that).

The only real disaster I had was trying to remove a worn out tiptop with a butane lighter on a graphite rod. the tip turned into a noodle. I only lost 1/2", but it was not something I want to repeat.

I will often use a torch on a metal reel seat for the reason Magjicwrench mentions. you can get the heat up high enough to break it free before the heat gets to the blank, but make sure you have some good padding because the reelseat is really hot. I also will cycle heat, water, heat water. I don't know if it helps, but it makes me feel better. The other risk of flame (or a hot heat gun) on the seat is that if you get it onto the cork, it will char.

There is a reason why rod builders don't like restoration projects. They are a labor of love.


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