With a pre-formed cork grip and a file/reamer it is very, very easy for this to happen. This issue has popped up a couple times on the forum lately. So, how do you avoid over reaming? Remember shop class? Measure twice and cut once. But how do you accurately measure a hole inside a piece of cork? I recommend a dial caliper.

If the rod building bug has it's fangs deeply into your free time, you need one good piece of precision measuring gear - a dial caliper. Go to eBay and find a dial caliper that will measure to 0.001" (0.02 mm for the metric crowd). Don't buy a digital - they eat batteries and will die when you need it most. A dial caliper will keep working and working and working... While there are some good used calipers on eBay, there are lots of damaged goods too. Buy new in the box, preferably with instructions. They are available in the $20-30 range new from Asia. The General Tools model #145 works too (fiberglass filled plastic - what's not to love?).

Measuring the hole in a cork grip: Photo 1 shows a caliper with the pertinent parts labeled (sorry, I bought my calipers when I was 20 and still had great eyesight. The photos show vernier calipers. Buy a dial unit). Mark your rod blank with blue tape where you want the cork grip to end. Photo 2 shows how to measure the blank diameter - use the tips of the outside jaws and measure up against, but not over, the tape. Write down the measurement! Now set the caliper for 0.050" less than the measurement. Lock the caliper. Use the inside caliper jaws to track how close the hole diameter is to the blank measurement (see Photo 3). Once the inside jaws slip into the hole (within 0.050" of your target size) finish the large end of the grip then change to a finer grit reamer. Reset the caliper to 0.010" less than the measurement. Continue reaming until the inside caliper jaws just slip into the hole. You should be able to push the slightly undersize grip over the rod blank, even dry. From this point be very cautious with your reaming.

BigspacePhoto 1BiggerbigspacePhoto 2BiggerbigspacePhoto 3

What else can we do with a dial caliper? You can measure thread wraps by sliding the outside jaws up against the threads (see Photo 4). You can accurately measure the rod tip so you can buy the proper size tip-top (see Photo 5). Note, here I use the main part of the outside jaws, not the tips. You can measure tippet material the same way. You can measure rod ferrules (see Photo 6). You can measure snake guide heights the same way. The other end of the caliper has a depth rod (see Photo 7) that is used to measure the depth of holes and cavities (see Photo 8). The back of the caliper has a step that can be used to measure ledges and steps (see Photo 9).

BigspacePhoto 4BiggerbigspacePhoto 5BiggerbigspacePhoto 6


BigspacePhoto 7BiggerspacePhoto 8BiggerspacePhoto 9

Two other recommended tools while I'm at it (see Photo 10). First, 3M blue tape with the orange core. This tape is made for recently painted surfaces. It sticks even less than standard 3M blue and leaves less goo behind. Second, a cheap, digital scale that runs on AAA batteries. This one measures 0-500 g with a display to 0.1 g. The display can also be set to grams, ounces, and grains. I've checked mine against calibrated lab weights. From 0.5-500 g it measured to better than 0.1% accuracy. That is pretty nice for $10-15. I use mine for weighing finished rods, rod components, reels, fly lines, and fly tying materials such as beads and jig heads. And epoxy. I weigh both parts of the epoxy onto aluminum foil, then mix. In my opinion, this is easier than measuring by volume.

BigspacePhoto 10

Tom

Tom,
You mention using a scale to weight out the resin and hardener. With any 2 part Epoxy, either bonding or finish epoxy, equal volumes will weight different amounts, so you would first need to know how much weight a certain volume is of each part. Once you know what a certain volume weights, yes a scale can be much easier to use.
I use a scale to measure out my Finish 2 Part Epoxy, it is very simple, but I did have to weight out 3cc of each part and it is going to be different with regard to brand of finish, while the weight differential was slight, it is enough that you don't want to go just off one brand and think it will be okay for any brand.

Yes, that is correct. The first time you use a new product, measure by volume and weight and write down the measurements. Perhaps I should have included a small notebook and a calculator in the list of tools too...

For the people that hate math, here is an example. Let's say we are using JGEFLEX WONDERPOXY. The instructions recommend mixing 1:1 by volume. The bargain priced JGEFLEX EASYKIT came with a large bottle each of part A and part B, and a pair of 3 mL plastic syringes to measure with.

Set up the scale with a small container to receive the WONDERPOXY. Zero the scale (the zero button may be marked 'Tare'). Fill one syringe with 3.0 mL of part A and squirt it into the container. For this example let's say we measured 3.5 g. Zero the scale again, fill the other syringe with 3.0 mL of part B and squirt it into the container. Let's say we measured 2.5 g. Now mix the epoxy and apply it to your rod project.

Calculate the ratio of part A to part B. In this case I set up the equation for weighing part A first and calculating part B:


The next time, set up a container to receive the WONDERPOXY mixture. Zero the scale, then add some part A to the container. Let's say we added 2.0 g of part A. For every gram of part A, we should have 0.71 grams of part B. In this case measure out 1.4 g of part B (slowly so you don't overshoot). Mix and apply.


Once you have the ratio determined, write the ratio in Sharpie on the original containers. Your nephew or granddaughter probably stole your small notebook and calculator when you weren't looking.


Tom

good lab protocol works equally well in the shop and shouldn't threaten the shop steward.

I only use 2-part epoxy to affix cork handles or wood seats to the blank, but I typically “eyeball” the proportions.

probably a bit to0 cavalier, but haven't had a grip or seat fail yet, so...

And all good home-use commercial epoxies are formulated that way (and if you think about it, the balance is made up with inert materials) - No industrial epoxies are formulated that way.
Tom is entirely correct, it's wasteful and messy to try measuring by volume, while measuring by weight into the same container is foolproof.
I always have Z-poxy around home, and you squeeze out two equal beads on your mixing card.
Couldn't imagine life without calipers - my vernier calipers are buried somewhere in preference to a good inexpensive dial caliper.
Even electronic calipers can be found inexpensively these days, giving the metric/imperial choice with the touch of a button.

Anything water based for rod building?Can't take anymore epoxy exposure.Spent years of my life wallowing in that crap.Solvent based products are getting to me too but in small quantities and air flow not to bad.A person in my area can pick up high end machinist tools for next to nothing used.Unfortunately all the people that know how to use them are dying off.I have so many tools and gadgets and multiples of many.

i finally had a bad mixture of epoxy finish after years with no problems(i'm a hobby builder, not a pro). going to have to strip everything back off, clean and redo whole rod. it's an ugly, unsightly mess. better procedure is called for on my end for sure. thinking of getting a scale to ensure proper measurements.

Great list Corlay!

Thanks Tom.I have A few repairs to make and a 6' Herter's that needs new guides.My first attempt at redoing guides.Yes i know ,people feel water based products are not as durable.I simply tell them that concrete is water based and has a decent track record,I can't even be in the same room with epoxy these days,I have fletched arrows with a special tape that works better than glue ever did.
Andy i thought your list would be pages,the sign of a true craftsman is doing more with less.I see the younger guys my son and nephews included,carrying so many tools with them that they don't really need.Youthful enthusiasm, having the newest cutting edge labor saver.

Hello
Great Topic you started Tom,I really like your approach,it's fun to see what people from different backgrounds bring to Rod Making. By now I've met rod tinkers from just about every walk of life.
It's amazing when - a Plumber,a Carpenter Boat Builder,a Professor,a Prosecutor,a Chemist,a Judge,a Trout Bum,a Metallurgist,a Archeologist,a Whom Ever - all have fishing and rod tinkering in common.
It's one of the things I learned as a young kid sitting around the camp fire with my Dad and his pals.

From the early age of 8 until about 12,Tinkered up my first 6 rods,back then Used a stack of books for tension,McClains was the foundation,a discarded double edged Razor blade,a Tea cup to keep the spool of thread from rolling across the floor,Scotch tape,a red pencil for guide spacing and placement,Moms Yard stick,a spool of Twine,10 cent paint brushes from the drug store,whatever Varnish or other stuff like sand paper I could scrounge from the boat house,head cement,plyabond cement,lots of plyabond.

When I was 13 Mom and Dad gave me a Herters Rod building kit for my birthday, The kit came with a thread tension device,thread,color preserver or should I say "color fixative",Rod Varnish, some other small hand tools,brushes,a pamphlet how to wrap a rod,The Rod Blank was a 7' Herters Spinning rod with a assortment of guides and tip tops,Also was gifted a copy of George Herters book with
.
"The Secrets Of Fishing Rods and How Fishing Rods Are Made".
The Most Important Rod Making Tools I Have Ever Owned Period.

That was it from that point on the obsession had it's foundation,some kids hung around the pool halls,I hung around the tackle shops,and rod shops.

Spent the last 4 days getting stuff together to sell off,I'm going to the C.F.F.A. Expo this coming Saturday.
Really went deep into my rod quiver this time,also my hoard of materials.
I'm ashamed to say that some of my stuff had to be thrown out,also some of the stuff I had no recollection of,it was like seeing some stuff for the first time.

Anyhow I took some pictures to share with you here of some Rod Shop Goodies.

Tight Lines And Keep It Simple Loops
Andy M

Could Only Save The Label Mice Ruined The Box.

Ferrule Sizing Gauge,Large Spool Thread Storage Box.

Great To Keep On Hand.

Silk Thread Storage.

More Thread Storage.

Loaded Syringes Of L.S. Supreme
I was only kidding when I commented that my mixes are formulated by color.
The epoxy mixture methods I use will remain my secret.
My recommendation however is to always follow the manufactures recommendations/instructions,If you have a problem/issue the best course of action is to call/contact the manufacturer,they always have technical help experts on hand to assist you.They can also possibly give you some tips to get the best results using their products.

One of my rod racks got left out in the Car Port,it was looking weathered,I have a couple of cases left of the 1970's Rod Spray On Epoxy,Wouldn't Dream of using it on a rod but when it came to a rod rack why not right.
Well I gotta tell you the stuff went on slicker than grease and looks amazing.
When this stuff cures in 5 Min it's as the can says hard as nails.

Plastic Thread Carousel.
That's All For Now Folks.

I want dial calipers in the worst way, but good Starretts, Mitutoyos etc. cost upwards of a hundred bucks. I got some digitals, and they've gone for 6 years on the original battery. They came with a spare battery to boot.

Over-reaming grips bedeviled me, and it mattered not that I measured things precisely. My issues stemmed from trying to get rid of the high spot, or node where the slopes from reaming with a tapered reamer from both ends meet. A round file would enlarge the ends no matter how hard I tried.

Rooting around in Woodcraft one day, I saw some tubular sanding devices with a quarter inch I.D. Hmmmm, I thought -- I could glue one of those to a piece of dowel rod, chuck it into a drill, and sand the interior of a grip without touching the ends with anything more abrasive than smooth Maple. This is what I now use after reaming:



I just run it around in there, checking fit periodically, until I get a good fit. It has worked well.

here's a combination forming and shearing press-brake - it's the same operation, just depends on the die and how far you press.

The hand shears work the same way and accomplish the same result (slowly) - a very straight cut slowly chewing your way up the sheet, because of how they keep the workpiece positioned.
And of course the point of my post was the bending pliers.



think I paid $40 for 4" Starrett dial caliper from a gunsmith supplier, maybe Midway, maybe Brownell - probably on sale.