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Dip Tank Prep Question
Post 11 Jan 2020, 09:36 • #1 
Master Guide
Joined: 04/02/14
Posts: 541
Location: US- Northern CO
I have been meaning to ask this for a few years now. Below is a photo of what I do to prepare a blank to be dipped in my tank of Spar Varnish. That is a strip of masking tape rolled to a cone shape that I gently insert into the female end of the blank so I can tie a string to dip and hang to dry. How do you guys handle this?



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Post 11 Jan 2020, 10:27 • #2 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/24/12
Posts: 456
Location: US-MI
I use these:

https://proofflyfishing.com/collections ... r-stoppers


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Post 11 Jan 2020, 14:17 • #3 
Master Guide
Joined: 04/02/14
Posts: 541
Location: US- Northern CO
@mdraft1 thanks matt, that does look a bit easier then my tape, do you ever dip the corked end in first then? that would solve more problems. i was taping the male ferrel ends, better to keep them out of the spar all together.


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Post 11 Jan 2020, 14:27 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 2513
Location: South of Joplin
Try taping the male for masking purpose with string under tape to hang by and any available plug to stopper the female?
I've never dipped rods but was thinking of it a few weeks ago and was intending to taper a dowel as a plug, since wood is my go to material. If using a sold plug like Matt's I think a piece of wire through the center and looped would be handy.


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Post 11 Jan 2020, 15:37 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 07/05/10
Posts: 5229
Location: Mid Hudson Valley of New York
For tip section I just loop mono line through the tip top and hang it. I stuff either a rolled coffee filter or a wooden skewer into the open end.


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Post 11 Jan 2020, 16:37 • #6 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/24/12
Posts: 456
Location: US-MI
For butt sections I always tape off the ferrule section (when needed),plug the female ferrules and dip away. Sometimes its nice to dip just the first 1/4"-1/2" of the grip into the spar and then a nice slow extraction. For tip sections I usually dip it tip down and then install the tip top after the varnish has cured for a few days. You can lightly remove the varnish from the tip 3/8" or so from the tip to make sure the epoxy/glue has a clean surface to bond to.


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Post 12 Jan 2020, 16:38 • #7 
Administrator
Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7824
Location: Holly Springs, NC
If I built cane rods, I would dip them. Bamboo needs the protection. However, the plastic resin holding your fiberglass fibers together is far, far tougher stuff than varnish could ever hope to be. Modern epoxy resins and sizings don't need UV or moisture protection. I love spar varnish, but I only use it on the wraps.

Pre-60s phenolic resin glass was slowly degraded by light, moisture, and oxygen exposure. Those old school brown blanks can use the help of a thin coat of good, modern varnish. That said, it is much more important to make sure your classic rod is dry before you put it in the tube*.

If you want to dip your rods, sure. A smooth, seamless, well done varnish dip is seductively pretty. And you won't hurt anything. But please understand, other than the very lovely aesthetics, there is no functional reason to do so. I don't want new builders to feel they must dip...


Tom

* If you open the rod tube, and the contents smell sour :x , the rod went in wet. There is probably mildew in there. Wash and dry the bag and rod, and hope for the best.


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Post 13 Jan 2020, 13:01 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Respectfully disagree.
GOOD QUESTION !!
So called modern fiberglass rods, I wouldn't be qualified to answer for,I'm a Classic Glass kinda guy.Dip No Dip I Could Care Less whatever blows your skirt up.
For me I evaluate the finish of the blank,only can I then decide if the blank will benefit from Clear Coat with U.V. Protection.

Classic Glass Blanks Or Rebuild Remake Projects I'd say that a U.V. Protrective Clear Coat Is Always A Very Good Idea.

Now to the question;
When dipping a Fiberglass Or Graphite Blank With Glass Or Graphite Ferrules,Be That a Tip or Mid what ever the case may be, usually use a short section of rod blank inside the female ferrule to suspend the tip/section from during the dipping process.To Plug Metal Ferrule Ends Or Glass Or Graphite Blank Ends I often use Either Cork Or Rubber Stoppers.

You can purchase These stoppers at any hardware store for a few Penney's,The last time I purchased any had to be 10 years ago they are reusable.

Have some of the Corks Vince Cummings Made For His Dip Plugs,Vince Threaded Copper Wire Through The Cork and Made a Loop To Hang His Blank Sections From Nails In The Shed By The Plugs.
Tape Yes I also use masking tape and use the tape at times to seal ferrule spigots, ends, etc, etc as needed.
No wrong way to do this what works for you is best.

Most Factory Glass Rods were dipped the same way they dipped baseball bats,in and out of the dip so fast if you blinked you would miss it,that's why the wraps on the cheap cheap rods had so little finish on them.

I'm in the process of Refinishing Some of my classic Worlds Finest Phillipson Blanks over in the what's on your bench topic.

We had a close family friend pass away recently so I've been attending to his Family out of respect & Old Friends in town n all.

I'm trying to get back to my projects this afternoon,I'll get some pictures of how simply I sealed my ferrules prior to my blank refinishing process.

Usually hand rub the finish on most of my Bamboo Rod Projects ;)

Tight Lines And Whatever Blows Your Skirt Up Loops
Andy M


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Post 22 Jan 2020, 12:44 • #9 
Sport
Joined: 01/07/19
Posts: 60
Location: Madison Heights, MI
jgestar wrote:
If I built cane rods, I would dip them. Bamboo needs the protection. However, the plastic resin holding your fiberglass fibers together is far, far tougher stuff than varnish could ever hope to be. Modern epoxy resins and sizings don't need UV or moisture protection. I love spar varnish, but I only use it on the wraps.

Pre-60s phenolic resin glass was slowly degraded by light, moisture, and oxygen exposure. Those old school brown blanks can use the help of a thin coat of good, modern varnish. That said, it is much more important to make sure your classic rod is dry before you put it in the tube*.

If you want to dip your rods, sure. A smooth, seamless, well done varnish dip is seductively pretty. And you won't hurt anything. But please understand, other than the very lovely aesthetics, there is no functional reason to do so. I don't want new builders to feel they must dip...


Thanks for the info, I'm just starting down my first rod build and was wondering why you would or would not want to dip the rod in varnish. This was very helpful. I think I will just focus on the wraps wraps.


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