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Post 06 Nov 2019, 08:34 • #1 
Sport
Joined: 06/20/19
Posts: 97
Location: US-SW PA
So I've purchased a few $12-25 seats recently and while not expecting glory and rapture for that expense.....I was less than thrilled with the seat inserts that appear to be particle board and have some sort of faux finish on them. Does this match your experiences? Getting this material wet seems like a terrible idea which makes using it on a fly rod equally bad. Further, I do not think I could open the ID to match the butt and not crumble the stuff. I know I can stent it but I'd prefer not to if possible. So....

Seeking recommendations on where to source an actual decent wood insert. I haven't spent much time on it(window shopping) as I anticipated the advice offered here would make short work of the task.

I suppose I could justify them on the China blanks I'm building, perhaps, but I can't build out the nice stuff with this. Live and learn. Doing both.

Thanks for any feedback,
Andrew


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Post 06 Nov 2019, 08:52 • #2 
Guide
Joined: 05/22/16
Posts: 159
Location: US-Eastern KY
Proof Fly Fishing. Matt is great to deal with.


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Post 06 Nov 2019, 09:25 • #3 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/01/12
Posts: 900
Location: Upstate NY
There are a couple of folks that sell rather nice reel seat inserts, either with or without hardware. I do some for hobby builders and one the better known rod companies that posts on here also buys some inserts from me. Some other outfits that sell nice stuff:
Mike McKoy at Snake Brand (Lemke made hardware)
Ron Weber at Southwest Custom Rods (Lemke made hardware)
Custom Fly Rod Crafters (Lemke hardware)
REC Componets
Anglers Workshop


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Post 06 Nov 2019, 09:37 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Throw the insert away and make a cork barrel insert. The resilience of cork is ideal for this application. Cork's natural wax (suberin) makes it impervious to moisture. I like its appearance better as well, mainly because I know it works best as an insert. If you like other materials better for appearance (and they work fine, too) several sources of nice inserts have already been mentioned.


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Post 06 Nov 2019, 10:44 • #5 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/24/12
Posts: 456
Location: US-MI
Hi Andrew,

I would be happy to help out. Our inserts are all solid wood. Please feel to contact me through my signature below.


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Post 06 Nov 2019, 12:14 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 01/02/12
Posts: 1859
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
I have purchased a number of reel seats/hardware from Ray Lee on EBay, also known by the handle of ksn47. Very good quality and never disappointed. Also have purchased from Lemke directly, again very satisfied. I have gotten away from wood inserts and now use cork exclusively. Very easy to make and works great.


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Post 06 Nov 2019, 12:38 • #7 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/06/15
Posts: 1249
Location: Central Oregon
Ligoniera1 wrote:
I suppose I could justify them on the China blanks I'm building


I picked up some CGR rods for $40 and replaced the flimsy slide bands with real locking seats. I got them from Matt, and while it seemed a bit out of whack to put a $25 seat on a $40 rod, both Matt and the seats were great to work with and they make me smile every time I screw down a reel.


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Post 06 Nov 2019, 12:53 • #8 
Guide
Joined: 02/13/16
Posts: 326
Location: US-TX
I get using cork for weight reduction but on glass that doesn't seem like an issue. With all the beautiful and different woods, it's another component you can use to make a unique and enhanced build. Or maybe I'm just biased because I really enjoy the turning and finishing process. But then I like turning cork too.


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Post 06 Nov 2019, 15:15 • #9 
Sport
Joined: 06/20/19
Posts: 97
Location: US-SW PA
Thanks for the feedback all.

I shall reveal my naivete here.....how does one build a cork seat? Same as a grip.......just smaller? Cork rings, glue them, turn them? Seems logical, just wanted to ask before I go down the (potentially wrong) rabbit hole.


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Post 06 Nov 2019, 18:56 • #10 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 01/02/12
Posts: 1859
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Most cork rings are 1 1/4” to 1 1/2 “ in diameter, have a central hole of 1/4” or 3/8” and are 1/2” thick. If you want a 3 1/2” handle glue 7 of them together on some sort of dowel or mandrel. If you use a dowel, soap it up so the glue won’t stick to it. Lots of examples of a cork clamp on this forum and You Tube. Put the rough handle on a mandrel, mount it in a lathe and sand it to your required dimensions. If the cork spins when you apply pressure, wrap some masking or paint tape on the mandrel. I use very rough sandpaper (80), files and some use lathe tools. Finish it with finer sandpaper down to at least 220. Then you have to use a ream to enlarge the diameter of the hole to fit the butt of your rod. Many folks glue the cork rings directly to the rod butt and use the blank as the mandrel. If you don’t have a lathe but have an electric drill, there are mounting brackets that can be purchased to set the drill up as a mini lathe. Really fairly easy to make seats and handles.


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Post 07 Nov 2019, 08:13 • #11 
Sport
Joined: 06/20/19
Posts: 97
Location: US-SW PA
These responses are exactly why I ask here.....thanks a ton all.


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Post 07 Nov 2019, 09:05 • #12 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
A tip on cork inserts. Leave it slightly proud of the fittings. People don't want marks on their cork seats. I do, on the reel foot side. Once you fit some reels to it, you can hand sand the diameter a bit more suck that the area under the foot is ever so slightly compressed when the reel is fit. Becomes like a cork footbed in a quality boot. Another tip, reel seats are generic in length to ensure clearance for the hardware to be snugged on to a foot of any length. Sometimes, you know all the reels you would use on a rod have a foot of X length, such that clearance is ample with a shorter barrel/insert between the hardware. You can mock up the seat to check and make it shorter than typical. The reasons to do this aren't very significant but might as well consider: appearance/proportion relative to other elements of the rod/reel(s) combo, slightly less tightening of the free ring, and if it is a threaded locking ring fitting, less threaded area exposed above the reel where, according to your grip, the back of the hand will be on cork and closer to the reel. When you shorten the length of a reel seat, a grip of preferred length terminates farther down the rod, which may have a slight effect on feel. Let the blank tell you where your hand wants to be on that rod, and design the length of your grip and seat accordingly.


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Post 07 Nov 2019, 09:32 • #13 
Master Guide
Joined: 12/31/13
Posts: 519
Location: US-Mount Pleasant, SC
Don't be afraid of fingernail bits and table routers. If you can turn a grip or a seat, it's the next step in building versus assembling.

Then you step into metal turning, and adhesive pads so you stop tracking the chips into the house. And a healthy fear of titanium.


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Post 08 Nov 2019, 11:45 • #14 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/14/06
Posts: 366
Location: US-TN
I really like the Bellinger seats, especially the classic ones:

https://www.genuinebellinger.com/store/bamboo-rod-making-machines-and-equipment/.

Pricey, but beautiful.

--Rich


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