Slice a with a razor blade where the thread lies off the blank, parallel to the guide foot. Peel them right off and wrap over. You may need to buff the spot lightly with a soft cloth and alcohol or mineral spirits. I would do it one foot at a time, rewrapping that one before cutting off the one on the other foot. That way you don't have to realign the guides.

I'm with you on CP. I can use it and have, but why would I want to? It is nothing but a nuisance extra step for uniformity of color that is unnecessary on a one-of rod. For production rods, it makes sense, not that much, but it does. A nonCP finish will definitely have more character, and if anything, it will yield more durable, long-lasting protection. Not that important since all-but-forever finish is possible on CPed wraps also.

Every time I see a CP problems post, or how-to-use it post, I want to reply, don't bother. I am too stupid to ever have figured out the benefits of CP, especially with nylon thread. I have thought about it for about 40 years, not that much, obviously.
.
Probably a lot of the time with CP problems, the thread has been contaminated, perhaps in storage, or by the winding rig, or by oils on the fingertips when wrapping. You can make sure everything is clean, or just throw away the CP and make sure everything is pretty clean.

I can't say I hate CP, but I see no reason to be friends with it, either.

Why not just use NCP thread?

https://raspberryfisher.wordpress.com/2 ... poxy-test/

some time ago I took a step aside and decided to find what work for me. now I am not advocating that you need to be as AR (!!!! retentive) as I was, but practice on a piece of wood and define your routine

last, why not go with no CP. the effect of CP may be nice if you are into playing colours, but otherwise I see no real gains. many people here demonstrate beautiful work without CP

For cryin out loud! Use NCP and git 'er done. :-)

I can safely say, I hate cp also. I use it on occasion but it hate it.

Bob

Dang, those are really nice Andy. For me, CP is always a crap shoot. I don't use it a lot. I've have good results using U40 Color Lock, and Miniwax Polycrylic.

Before the OP cuts everything off and starts over, I'd suggest applying at least 4 coats of CP and see if it doesn't improve. Don't wipe it off... let it soak in and dry. You can still cut it off and start over if it doesn't work.

I've started using Polycrylic thinned 50% with water, adding coats until the latest wet coat doesn't change the color as it's applied. It looks blotchy at first but evens out by the 3rd or 4th coat.

I haven't built as many rods as most of these guys have but I've never really had any issues with CP. I usually put at least 2 coats of the FC CP which is what I use the most but sometimes it might take 1 more to get the job done.

As someone noted above the threads tend to look like they're plastic coated until the epoxy is put on then it looks great (for me anyway).

Also, as whrlpool noted what looks like a CP problem sometimes is a contamination problem with something on the thread which I have seen. Ok I did it and still have no idea what it was...

One tip I've learned THE HARD WAY is to be really careful with using alcohol on a blank because it will strip the paint off some blanks. Ask me how I know.

Hello Thanks
I like what I call Flower Garden Tones.
The Green With Light Tan Tipping is Silk so is the Yellow on the Sceptre Brown blank the rest are Nylon.
My preference is to lean toward not using C.P. whenever I can.

However the successful use of C.P. on presentation quality rods add another facet of the rod makers art to the finished piece Especially if it's a light color on a dark blank in my opinion.

On the rod I'm preparing for the Northeast Glass Clave I used Polycrylic because the wraps were darker than the blank by a few shades followed by several coats of Spar.
I got away with it however with light colors on dark blanks it's Lacquer or nothing.

Below are some shots of the Clave rod with only the Polycrylic applied before spar.
Take a good look first notice how much darker the thread is after the Polycrylic was applied in comparison to the original thread color before.Polcrylic is not a true color preserver as you can clearly see.
Next look at the guide feet,see the dark areas,that's where we have nonuniform penetration creating darker areas.
The rod has turned out Okay but not what I consider my best work,Lacquer would have kept the color true and the darker areas would not be present.
Polycrylic is okay for what it is but don't confuse it with actual C.P. I actually like Polycrylic but more as a finish
rather than a C.P.

With this rod I wanted the thread slightly darker than the original color so that was why I opted for Polycrylic.

I can't emphasize enough the role thread tension plays on Color Preserver Uniformity.
Tight Lines And Proper Tension Loops
Andy M

Englander:

If you get blotchiness with CP BEFORE coating with varnish of epoxy, it is because of tiny gaps in the windings. This will let the color of the blank show through and to the eye the wrap appears blotchy. It is especially a problem with light thread on a dark blank, such as what you have here. As you wrap, you should be packing the thread with your fingernails every 6 turns or so (be sure to wash your hands) and burnish when finish.

One you've got that problem solved, you will have to worry about getting blotchiness when you apply the varnish or epoxy. My opinion is that if you have applied several coats of CP, the finish seeps in through the tunnels formed by the guide foot on the interior end. So fill those tunnels!

--Rich

Hi Guy's

Thanks guys and Andy beautiful work very lovely tones indeed when you say "Lacquer" could you be more specific ?

Had a quick "google" on UK DIY stores and seems to be all sort of types ????

Stephen

Andy is right. The brushing lacquers meant for woodwork that are available now have an amber tint in them that is meant to "warm" the look on wood. It will darken the thread substantially. Not as much as varnish and it can be appealing but if you want to lock the color you won't get it. You want "water clear" to hold the color. When I use lacquer on restorations, I use Aerogloss clear which is used for model airplanes, three coats cut 20% (4:1). I also use it to coat blued hardware -- double duty!

--Rich