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Post 11 Apr 2013, 16:52 • #1 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/16/07
Posts: 389
Location: US-ME
Tips , tricks? Using spray paint and want to avoid runs and globs.


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Post 11 Apr 2013, 18:55 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5561
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
Lot's of thin coats.

You can get a base coat down thickly and sand it down and then cover it with a few more thin coats, but lots of thin coats is best.

Follow the directions on the can, specifically for drying and recoating. If you let it dry longer than the initial dry time and shorter than the full dry time, you can get into situations where a new coat "Lifts" the existing stuff off. Not fun.

For canned spray paint, Krylon fusion seems to have a good reputation. I've also used modeling paint with an airbrush ok, but When I try and rush things I get drips.

Good luck.

Carl


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Post 12 Apr 2013, 00:32 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/26/09
Posts: 1106
Location: Richmond, TX
Automotive touch up spray paint is a good choice for fiberglass blanks. Turning the blank while spray painting and as the paint sets up will address runs and globs. An expensive rod turner can be constructed for spray painting a blank (mine is built with an old barbecue rotisserie motor). Several thin coats will produce a better (smoother, harder, more durable) finish.

Andrew.


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Post 12 Apr 2013, 04:13 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Surface preparation and cleanliness for good adhesion of the initial coat. Depending on the appearance of the color chosen, you can clearcoat to get the desired degree of gloss (satin, semi and so on). This could be varnish or a variety of other coatings; you'd have to read the cans and info from the manufacturer to select an appropriate product for the paint used.


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Post 12 Apr 2013, 07:35 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/11/05
Posts: 3327
Location: US-TX
I've painted only 2-3 rods; emphasize; THIN COATs; I painted my rods while they were turning on my rod turner which helped me avoid paint uneveness; never let the paint can stop; keep it moving-p-


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Post 12 Apr 2013, 10:51 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5561
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
pearow wrote:
I've painted only 2-3 rods; emphasize; THIN COATs; I painted my rods while they were turning on my rod turner which helped me avoid paint uneveness; never let the paint can stop; keep it moving-p-

Ah, and don't start with the spay on the blank. Start the spray off the blank, and then move it onto the blank and keep it moving until it clears the blank on the other side.


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Post 12 Apr 2013, 14:31 • #7 
Master Guide
Joined: 04/15/06
Posts: 804
Location: Fayetteville, NC
I don't have much experience doing this, but I did paint a glass rod for a client several years ago. I used Krylon Fusion, three very thin coats--a professional spray rig with auto paint formulated for plastic parts would be better, but not practical for most of us. Fusion is the only rattlecan paint formulated to bond to plastic and cure flexible, as far as I know. After allowing the paint to cure thoroughly (a couple of weeks), I wiped on two very thin coats of U-40 Permagloss. The client hasn't complained any, so I guess it's still holding up. Permagloss dries to the touch very quickly (minutes to about an hour, depending on temp and humidity), forms a very tough surface, and is usable over many finishes, so long as they are well-cured.


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Post 12 Apr 2013, 16:04 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5561
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
Cross Creek wrote:
.Fusion is the only rattlecan paint formulated to bond to plastic and cure flexible, as far as I know. After allowing the paint to cure thoroughly (a couple of weeks), I wiped on two very thin coats of U-40 Permagloss. The client hasn't complained any, so I guess it's still holding up. Permagloss dries to the touch very quickly (minutes to about an hour, depending on temp and humidity), forms a very tough surface, and is usable over many finishes, so long as they are well-cured.

My warnings about letting the paint dry before overcoating were specifically related to permagloss. I put on some not so thin coats and let it dry for two days. I then put on permagloss and the paint started to lift off.

Paint is a strange beast. It may be dry to the touch, but it is still curing.

Carl


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Post 15 Apr 2013, 21:05 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
I just gave a rod away that was sprayed with fusion, when I applied the thinned with denatured alcohol epoxy thread finish it pulled the paint up through the thread wraps.
It was an interesting look but not what I was going for. :lol
The guy I gave the rod to has ordered several custom rods from me this winter so I added it to his last order as a gift. :d
He loved the rod but the flaw was very discouraging for me it didn't show through until it was cured. :(
I have never had that problem with dupli color car paint.
Tight lines and painted loops
Andy M


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Post 17 Apr 2013, 08:17 • #10 
Master Guide
Joined: 09/29/08
Posts: 435
Location: US-NJ
I've had my best luck with car paint in a can and so-so luck with Fusion.

I like the old Harnell rods and many need a touch up to the black paint. Have redone some old blue Conolons just to make the ugly blue really pop. Need some ugly rod to fish when I'm fishing with the Payne and Leonard bamboo crowd.

I've done some faux bamboo like the old Heddon T70 rods and found that car paint made the best yellow under layer - other paints softened with miscellaneous grain treatments (best was colored varnish brushed repeatedly until the varnish got tacky. Otherwise the varnish would level and show no grain).

My issue with most car paints is they have sparkle flakes in them. Try the foreign car paint section for straight colors.

Finally, cannot over emphasize using multiple thin coats! However, can use 1000 to 2000 grit sandpaper to take down major flaws and polishing compounds for final smoothing. These products are sold in the same aisle as the car paint in the auto parts store.

I use a thin overcoat of spar varnish or Tru Oil. Thes are slightly amber colored and seem to make an old rod look better than a modern clear coat IMHO. You may feel otherwise.


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Post 29 Apr 2013, 16:16 • #11 
Guide
Joined: 04/20/10
Posts: 112
Location: US California Tahoe Sierras
Try a Permanent marker pen & clear coat over it. Make sure you rub pen in to the blank as you go along. let dry for a couple days. Then cleat coat it. You get no bulid up this way.


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Post 05 Mar 2020, 09:49 • #12 
Sport
Joined: 10/01/19
Posts: 85
Location: US-FL
Aside from U40 and Varnish,

What would be the best spray (easy to find and work with) option as top coat?

Thanks,


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Post 05 Mar 2020, 11:51 • #13 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Just to be sure, do you mean aside from varnish or urethane finishes packaged as liquids for application by rubbing, dipping, fingertip, or brush? Spar varnishes in several forms are available as aerosol (rattle-can) sprays. Easy and quick.


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Post 05 Mar 2020, 12:49 • #14 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 01/02/12
Posts: 1859
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
I have painted several blanks using Krylon. Can’t emphasize enough about light coats, keeping the can moving when spraying and short bursts. A finish clear coat is also beneficial.


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Post 05 Mar 2020, 13:08 • #15 
Sport
Joined: 10/01/19
Posts: 85
Location: US-FL
Didn't know about varnish spray.

Retired Fisher - Do you mean Krylon Clear coat?


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Post 05 Mar 2020, 13:33 • #16 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 01/02/12
Posts: 1859
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Yes, Krylon clearcoat. Should have been more specific. Thanks.


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Post 05 Mar 2020, 20:40 • #17 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
The Best Way Is My Way. :eek
Examples of recently painted and refinished blanks.
Been painting blanks for a very long time.
Image
Image
I Clean The Blanks With Acetone Before Painting
Image
Phillipson Blanks Being Refinished.
Image
Image
My Trick Is To Paint The Blank With The Rattle Can,Then While The Paint Is Still Wet On The Blank Dip The Painted Blank In The Varnish ,Then Hang The Blank In The Cabinet To Dry.
I've tried every method you can think of including the methods described here and a dozen others.
My Method that I'm sharing makes for the best looking most durable finish.
In The Summer I leave them in the Sunshine to bake.
Image
All painted with my method.
If you really want to get some more real information about painting blanks go to the What's On Your Bench Topic For More Details.
Image
Image
Tight Lines And Keep It Simple Loops
Andy M


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Post 06 Mar 2020, 08:19 • #18 
Sport
Joined: 10/01/19
Posts: 85
Location: US-FL
Thanks Andy, I have a few questions about varnish but, I'll read the what's on your bench thread first. Stay tuned.


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Post 06 Mar 2020, 11:01 • #19 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/31/15
Posts: 1238
Location: Northern Rockies
Do you have any issues with ferrule fit with painted blanks? I see Andy's pictures all use nickel silver ferrules. I am wondering if you have any challenges with tip-over-butt ones.


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Post 06 Mar 2020, 12:03 • #20 
Administrator
Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7811
Location: Holly Springs, NC
GlacierRambler wrote:
Do you have any issues with ferrule fit with painted blanks? I see Andy's pictures all use nickel silver ferrules. I am wondering if you have any challenges with tip-over-butt ones.

No, because of the shape of the ferrules.

A nickel silver ferrule is a untapered rod inside an untapered cylinder. The two pieces are sized to an intereference fit. It takes some skill to fit them correctly.

A tip over butt ferrule is a tapered rod inside of a tapered cylinder. As long as two pieces have matching tapers, they will fit correctly (which also takes skill to fit correctly). A coat of paint will increase the diameter of the male ferrule, but won't change the taper. Perhaps the two pieces won't slide together quite as much, but the difference will be minute.

Until it cures, the paint on the male ferrule will be susceptible to chipping. Another point in favor of spigot ferrules.


Tom


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Post 07 Mar 2020, 10:50 • #21 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/31/15
Posts: 1238
Location: Northern Rockies
Thanks. I assumed that was the case, but I wasn't sure if there was something I was missing.


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