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Broken Spigot Repair
Post 03 Feb 2013, 12:32 • #1 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/11/05
Posts: 3327
Location: US-TX
This is how I did it; not an expert but maybe this pictorial will help someone.
1. Cut the spigot out. Find how far up the rod section the spigot extends and cut it at that point.
2. Find replacement piece that matches color, type of material, diameter and taper.
3. Find a spigot piece of the same quality to replace broken spigot but will also have to extend beyond the cut enough to stabilize cut off.
4. I also epoxied a piece of piano wire into the hollow spigot to add strength to the entire area.
Here's the repair items as well as the broken spigot, the piece that was cut from the butt; the replacement piece, the replacement spigot, and the piano wire.
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Here's the spigot piece epoxied into the rod section and marked for the replacement rod piece to be epoxied on the spigot
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Here's the rod piece fitted to the rod with spigot in place
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Then, the joint where the new rod piece fit with the existing rod was wrapped over with size A nylon garnet thread(original color) and epoxied. Then the guide foot was wrapped over that. Guide had to be moved one inch from original to place so as to hide joint.
Image
This pic shows finished repair with old spigot and rod piece at the top and repair below; wraps had two coats of epoxy; tip section at bottom
Image
There are other ways to repair broken spigots, but this method seemed to me to be the most appropriate in this case. The rod will be a little stiffer at the joint but the joint and the spigot will be stronger. The threads match perfectly; the repaired joint is hidden under one of the guide foot wrappings and only an experienced eye can detect the repair.-p-


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 03 Feb 2013, 12:38 • #2 
Master Guide
Joined: 04/15/08
Posts: 902
Location: Salisbury, England
Nice problem solving job, thanks for sharing


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 03 Feb 2013, 12:40 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 01/02/12
Posts: 1712
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Pearow - a great job you did there. I love theses picture tutorials. Roy


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Broken Spigot Repair
Post 04 Feb 2013, 00:28 • #4 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/12/07
Posts: 809
Location: US-TX
Wow!


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 04 Feb 2013, 10:57 • #5 
Master Guide
Joined: 12/09/11
Posts: 888
Location: Athens GA
Helpful info, thanks for sharing. Could of used it a couple years ago but instead wickered something half-baked. If it happens again, which is likely, I'll know how to do it right.
Jim


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 04 Feb 2013, 12:33 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/11/05
Posts: 3327
Location: US-TX
I would be interested in hearing from whirly, Andy, and other geru's. I know there's other ways to do this. I thought about cutting the rod back and exposing the existing spigot, but if I had cut it back to say an inch and a half, (which to me is about the minimum that was needed for inserting into the tip section,) I would have had only an inch and a quarter remaining inside the butt section. I was afraid that would not be enough to hold on a 5/6 rod; maybe a 3 or 4. (Plus, the section would be noticably short.) I don't know how you determine this other than trial and error; and years of experience. I thought about drilling out the spigot, since it was hollow but the heat from the drilling might have had some negative impact on the IM6 graphite, plus drilling back almost 3 inches freehand might have scarred and thus weakened the rod-p-


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 04 Feb 2013, 15:21 • #7 
Global Moderator
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8435
Location: US-ME
Gene, Andy probably knows the absolute best way if there is one better than your repair, which makes sense to me. Really, though, you have probably forgotten more about doing those more complicated breaks than I know, and repaired way more besides. Nice job showing it.


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 04 Feb 2013, 15:51 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 03/16/08
Posts: 3434
Location: Upstate-NY
looks like a very clean repair.

question: seems like with that extra long internal spigot, the "flat spot" at the ferrule joint would be increased.
Do you notice any dramatic differences in casting before/after? (I would predict that you do, but who knows ... )


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 04 Feb 2013, 16:58 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/11/05
Posts: 3327
Location: US-TX
good point Corlay. I would believe that the flat spot would increase as there's more internal support(3 inches more) plus the piano wire. I am anxious for my friend to get the rod and cast it, noting the differences as per his perspective. However, on a 5/6 rod it may not be as noticeable as with a lighter rod; but there definately has to be some difference-p-


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 04 Feb 2013, 17:07 • #10 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 05/30/07
Posts: 2341
Location: Arlington, TX
Gene,
Nice job. Today, I was telling Bud how I have told folks that you're the man I'd go to if my rod suffered a "traumatic injury". These repairs aren't penciled out of some book- they require experience in the trials and an open-mindedness not found from kit building. I applaud your work.

Les


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 04 Feb 2013, 18:13 • #11 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 07/05/10
Posts: 5152
Location: Mid Hudson Valley of New York
Gene, great job. I wouldn't know where to begin something like this, but your step by step approach seems well thought out and executed. You are a terrific asset to the forum for your knowledge and willingness to share it. Thanks for posting.


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 04 Feb 2013, 20:31 • #12 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3836
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Nice going "p"
That's certainly a reasonable approach that seems to have solved the problem hopefully for the long run?
It's apparent that the original spigot broke because the small diameter of the graphite spigot overtime became fatigued or compromised somehow, possibly the small diameter spigot just would not hold up to the load during the flex curve over repeated use?
I understand the wire is by design suppose to add structural integrity but I don't really see it's advantage?
It may hold everything in place I can't really say for sure as I've never tried it, those that have would know far better than I? not exactly my cup of tea so to say.
To each their own and what ever works for you and all that!

You were lucky that the male spigot wasn't impossible to remove from the female ferrule as was the case with a recent repair I made to a t&t 8 piece graphite rod.
My method in your situation would have been the use of a piece solid fiberglass for the inner sleeve/spigot to assure the repair would be more substantial than the original, just my preferred approach.

With my recent t&t repair the last ferrule spigot at the tip top was broken clean off, to make things a little more challenging the diameter of the spigot was around 0. 0135".
I tried to drill into the male spigot enough to be able to later glue the bit into the spigot so I could get a good bite to pull it out of the female but that wasn't possible.
So I decided to take the high road instead and redesign the ferrule from a spigot to a Phillipson style sleeve over ferrule.
This was the better option from the beginning but because I wanted to keep the rod as original as possible I tried the re spigot avenue first.
Anyhow I removed the male ferrule wrap on section #7 dressed the blank to accept the appropriate size female tapered over sleeve.
I made the over sleeve and fit it to the butt end of section #8 then after the dry fitting epoxied it to the section, re wrapped everything that needed wrapping in relation to the repair and wa la a t&t with a newly designed union between sections #7 and #8.

Image
Image
Image

Then just because someone said the repair was impossible and replacement pieces were not available? I decided to make replacement spare #7 and #8 sections out of bits and pieces I had kicking around the shop as insurance against future problems.

Image

Interestingly enough when assembled the rods measured length was 9' 1/2" honestly I seriously doubt if you cast the repaired rod next to an original without the sleeve over ferrule you could notice any difference.

Whenever you come across a spigot ferruled graphite rod with a broken spigot if the spigot broke under normal fishing conditions the best way to assure the repair will last is to change it to a over sleeve in my experience.
Couldn't begin to tell you how many times I replaced graphite spigots with graphite to only have
The rod a year or 2 later be back at the bench, now they either get new fiberglass spigots, Phillipson style sleeve overs ferrule up grades, or they get the permanent never failing fix epoxied together with an over sized over sleeve into a one piece that's the best.

Another good reason to stick with fiberglass they are much less prone to need this type of attention.

"p" you did a great job! I hope the person whom owns the rod truly appreciates the amount of thought, effort and time that went into the repair, I'll bet you didn't charge them enough we seldom do, if we did they would just say screw it and have us make them a new rod or go shopping at one of the bargain outlets ha ha

Tight lines and never ending graphite ferrule repair events loops
Andy M


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 05 Feb 2013, 00:07 • #13 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/11/05
Posts: 3327
Location: US-TX
good thinking Andy; I'll remember that method.
Also, I agree that the piano wire will not add a great deal of strength but I wanted the spigot to look like the other and no fiberglass I had would match the color of graphite; hence, I made the IM8 spigot solid with epoxy surrounding a piano wire. I did this to a tip of a scott 5 weight and it has held pretty good ; I've caught some nice bass on it. I went to a music store and bought a foot of each size piano wire they had just for rod repair; especially when the diameter is too small for a piece of solid fiberglass-p-


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 05 Feb 2013, 10:53 • #14 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3836
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Gene as you know ferrule repairs are always a challenge that never changes especially when it comes to graphite.
Honestly most of the manufactures shy away from any type of broken shaft repairs, most often they just replace the rod with another or in some rare cases replace the broken section.
Many times if the break is not covered under their warranty they will offer a decent price reduction toward a new rod provided you are the registered original owner.

I had a sage come in a few months ago, when I saw the shape the tube was in I was afraid to open it. The rod a 9' 2/1 6wt was broken in 2 places with about 24" completely missing.
The reel seat looked like it was used as a golfing driver, anyway when I asked the guy if he had contacted sage to see if the rod was under warranty he laughed.
I asked seriously did you purchase the rod new and did you send in the card he answered yes.

Next we went on eBay and sure enough we found the exact same model rod for sale I think the bid was at like 50 beans with a few days to go.
The rod was in poor shape but full length.

We talked over the diss advantages of purchasing the eBay rod and then me doing the necessary tune up to get it in decent shape for fishing?
We decided that if the rod went for under 100 beans we would roll the dice.
In the meantime I suggested that I should contact sage with the serial number etc and find out
If the rod was covered.

The next morning I called gunner at sage with the information he looked up the number and said well yes and no, the rod was covered but since the rod model was so very old and by the description I gave him he could only make the call naturally after the rod was sent to him for evaluation.
However for a nominal fee he could either replace the rod with a discontinued comparable model
Of lesser value than the original or a more current blank of equal value.

This all naturally hinged on his receiving the rod at sage for evaluation and the rod being worthy of being considered broken under the guidelines of the original warranty.

I passed the information on to the rods owner and we waited for the auction to end, during the course of the auction another one came up for sale so we added it to the watch list yep you guessed it another one surfaced so we added it to the watch list, well that went on for about 2 weeks none of them were at or below our set limit.

Next I packed up the rod enclosed a check for the return shipping, the nominal fee for the new blank should the rod be considered covered, a note with all the pertinent information etc, it was at a very bad time to send it during the pre holiday season early november, I sent it parcel post with insurance and delivery confirmation it took 13 days for it to make the cross country journey it only took me 6 days hitch hiking back in 75 but that's another story ha ha.

So we patiently waited every now and then I checked to see if the check had been cashed, finally it had so I called gunner he said according to his paperwork the rods evaluation was complete and a new blank would be shipped in the next few days.

Gunner and the staff at sage are truly devoted to their customers the blank arrived last week it's first rate all the way! , they also returned the broken rod so I could salvage the hardware the winding check, hook keeper, stripping guides now I just have to convince the owner to let me
Use a new reel seat as he really wants me to salvage the old one. ;)

The reasons I went into this are to emphasize that some graphite rods actually most rods can be restored with used donor rod parts , that's why rod repair folks have so many broken rods that just seem to languish, gene certainly proved that who else would of had a matching section for his repair!
If you don't have what you need the next best thing is to ask if anyone else has what you need as gene did as well.
Bamboo rod sections often get traded between tinkers, when those avenues fail eBay is a great source you may have to wait but eventually they do seem to show up.
Last but certainly not least the first thing you should always do is contact the rod manufacturer directly to see what they are willing to do for you.

Anyway back to the topic sorry for the rant gene.
As I often hear their is more than one way to skin a cat at least that's what people say I wouldn't know I've never actually had the need or desire to skin one ha ha :)
Seriously everyone has their own methods of tackling rod repairs, god only knows in the beginning I had enough of mine fail, but every time we do one we learn more, now with the aid of the internet we can actually learn from each others mistakes and accomplishments!

Tight lines and always challenging loops
Andy M


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 05 Feb 2013, 11:42 • #15 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/29/10
Posts: 1047
Location: Osage Orange Range, North Texas, US
Quote:
.. . When I Saw The Shape The Tube Was In I Was Afraid To Open It. The Rod A 9' 2/1 6WT Was Broken In 2 Places With About 24" Completely Missing.
The Reel Seat Looked Like It Was Used As A Golfing Driver,Anyway When I Asked The Guy If He Had Contacted Sage To See If The Rod Was Under Warranty He Laughed.

Please sell that man a fiberglass rod. . . maybe an armor-plated Shakespeare, South Bend, or True Temper.


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 05 Feb 2013, 11:54 • #16 
Global Moderator
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8435
Location: US-ME
Andy, you already did $100 of work just mucking with that thing. I only ever broke one graphite rod--out of stupidity with a fold-down seat that jumped up too hard and snapped it above the grip. I liked it quite a bit but I paid $2.00 for it at a driveway sale so I cut it up for repair parts for graphite rods, which I never used since I don't use graphite rods much and don't break them. If somebody else broke one, I would offer to fix it but tell them to throw it out and buy another. But if a man likes a rod, a custom repair like yours or Gene's is worth plenty--I'm sure you guys treat them more than well. A guy with an irreplaceable 'glass rod really gets his money's worth out of such repairs.


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 05 Feb 2013, 12:30 • #17 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/11/05
Posts: 3327
Location: US-TX
as you well know, we do these things because we like/enjoy doing them; there ain't no money in it. -p-


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 05 Feb 2013, 12:49 • #18 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 05/30/07
Posts: 2341
Location: Arlington, TX
pearow wrote:
as you well know, we do these things because we like/enjoy doing them; there ain't no money in it. -p-

Sounds like it can be about the challenge itself ...


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Broken Spigot Repair
Post 05 Feb 2013, 12:55 • #19 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/12/07
Posts: 809
Location: US-TX
You mean you want to get paid? LOL. Gene you're a wizard.


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 05 Feb 2013, 14:09 • #20 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3836
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Great I've been looking for someone to refer rod work to, I'm sure they wont argue about the price when you work for free :o any chance you'll pay to do the repairs gene if so whats the current rate your paying? :eek
Shipping's often is a deterrent you willing to pick up the tab for that as well? :d
Tight lines and very generous loops
Andy M


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Re: Broken Spigot Repair
Post 05 Feb 2013, 16:03 • #21 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/11/05
Posts: 3327
Location: US-TX
I spent 25 years coaching football and I fugured it up, roughly speaking I made right at 33c an hour. That was my paying job, so you can just imagine what I'm making repairing rods; not nearly that lofty figure!-p-


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