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Post 12 Nov 2005, 17:21 • #1 
Emeritus
Joined: 06/10/05
Posts: 612
Location: US-MI
Hello Guys,
I'm wondering what methods and tools you guys use to shape cork grips. Do you shape grips on the rod blank, or shape them on some kind of mandrel and then fit them to the blank
Thanks
Ribs


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Post 12 Nov 2005, 17:44 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/09/05
Posts: 2069
Location: Monroe, WA
hey ribs,
for minor stuff, i attach relatively fine sand paper to something flattish like a paint stirring stick or some rectangular molding (folding it around onto itself and holding it with my finger or sticking it on with spray on adhesive). i then use it like you would a metal file, being careful to remove cork slowly and evenly, rotating the handle as i go. i do this with the cork already attached to the rod. i'm sure there's a better way if you're totally reshaping the grip, but i've just never needed to do that. i look forward to hearing what others are doing. good luck.
-mike


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Post 13 Nov 2005, 14:05 • #3 
FFR Founder
Joined: 06/07/05
Posts: 792
Location: US-MA
I am tottaly primitive in grip production - I only make fat cigar grips - If I want something else, I buy it. For cigar grips I start with a mill bastard file for roughing down the cork blank, than move to prgressively finer sand paper. Turns out just fine. I did buy a lathe that I am going to attach to an old singer sewing maching treadle so that I can shape grips on it. Cool - off the grid! Alec:hat


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Post 19 Nov 2005, 10:58 • #4 
Guide
Joined: 09/02/05
Posts: 193
Location: US-CA
i've sucessfully shaped one cork grip so far, a fenwick-style halfwells incorporating 1/2 inch cork rings with predrilled centers and one 1/2 inch ring of exotic cork from andy dear of lamar reel seats. i've only attempted two since i have so many preformed grips stocked up.

i used one of andy's smooth steel mandrels to glue up the rings with titebond III (water proof) and a homemade cork grip clamp.

once dry and removed from clamp, but still on the mandrel, i chucked the mandrel in a cordless dewault drill and sitting on my back porch using a hand rail post to brace the drill, i carefull started shaping the grip with various grits of sandpaper, checking the shape every so often. i had to insure the rear section wasn't sanded too much for the reel seat (i forgot this part on the first grip ;-). turned out really nice (double pun not intended) and will follow likewise for any other grip i turn. the steel mandrel was about $15-$20 from andy and will last quite some time.

for fitting to the blank, i use a set of reamers i bought from a popular online auction site, complete with foam handles.

eric
fresno, ca.


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Post 19 Nov 2005, 17:05 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/11/05
Posts: 1012
Location: US-NY
I shape them on the blank whenever I can. I think you get a much better fit that way. If you have to ream out a cork grip to get it onto the blank, it's very easy to get spots where it was reamed out too much. This causes soft spots in the completed grip - a terrible thing on a fly rod.

On the rare occasions when I need to turn the grip off the blank, I will use a piece of dowel as a mandrel. I get a piece that is slightly smaller in diameter than the blank and wind some string over the length of it, using the same technique as making a guide wrap. I use the string that is used to bind bamboo rods for this, but some fly line backing would probably work as well. I then put the cork rings on over the string, making sure to twist the rings in the direction that causes the string to tighten, as opposed to the other way around. I also try to keep the adhesive away from the center of the ring where it might get on the string. I use a cork ring clamp to compress the rings after gluing up, whether I'm turning on the blank or using a mandrel.

When turning on the blank, I first install a single cork ring - the one that will be closest to the reel seat. After the adhesive has set on this ring I will then add the other rings. This makes for a solid foundation that will not slide around while you are making the rest of the grip.

After shaping the grip, I cut the end of the string and then just pull it off like line coming off a spinning reel. Once the string has been removed, the cork slides off the mandrel easily.

I used to use an old inexpensive lathe to turn my grips. I had to build a fixture with rollers to hold the other end of the blank. A few years ago I bought a Rodsmith power wrapper and have been using that to shape the grips. I use sand paper to shape the grip, starting with coarse and moving to progressively finer grades. If you go to a hobby shop, they sell packets of sanding film, which is like an ultra-fine sandpaper. I use this for the final sanding to give the cork a baby-butt-smooth finish.


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Post 20 Nov 2005, 16:04 • #6 
Emeritus
Joined: 06/10/05
Posts: 612
Location: US-MI
Hey Gaddis,
Does your Rodsmith Wrapper have enough RPM's to turn nice grips? I'm thinking of buying one. I'm also looking at the custom powerwrap and some others but they are more expensive.
Thanks
Paul


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Post 20 Nov 2005, 17:03 • #7 
Guide
Joined: 09/02/05
Posts: 193
Location: US-CA
it's very easy to turn on a steel mandrel, just wipe on some paraffin wax. it comes off easy. and if you screw up, you don't have to worry about taking if off the blank, possibly damaging the blank.

gaddis, as for shaping cork grips on a wrapping machine, do you use the same wrapping machine for applying thread finish? shaping cork grips causes a LOT of dust and i would think the dust could get into subsequent thread finish work.

a lot of interesting ways to do things i'd never heard about. this is such an alternative forum ;-)

eric
fresno, ca.


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Post 21 Nov 2005, 04:24 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/11/05
Posts: 1012
Location: US-NY
ribs1,

Yes the Rodsmith will spin fast enough to turn grips. If you solicit opinions you will find that there are better wrappers out there but they cost at least twice as much. For non-professional use the Rodsmith is fine. I know they have made some improvements in it since I got mine. Of course, if I was only building fly rods I wouldn't have a power wrapper at all. I build some large saltwater rods and it helps to have a power wrapper when making long underwraps. Everything else I prefer to wrap by hand. I use the Rodsmith mostly for turning grips and for finish drying.

eric,

I never apply finish on the same day that I have used the Rodsmith for turning grips so as to avoid the dust problem. Also I prefer to hold the rod section in my hands when applying the finish. I would only use the wrapper if it was a long one-piece rod that would otherwise be too awkward to work with.


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