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Post 18 Mar 2006, 06:35 • #1 
FFR Founder
Joined: 06/07/05
Posts: 792
Location: US-MA
Well I'm finally getting to building the "Big Stick" - a Fenwick Fenglass 11/12 weight. This rod is for throwing fast sinking lines for big cow stripers that hunker deep. I am hanging a Fenwick F912 on it. No anti-reverse, no large arbor. An old fashioned, knuckle-busting, glass saltwater rod that I expect to outlive me. Here's the layout: Gimble equipped fighting butt with removable rubber mushroom cap, anodized aluminum up-locking reel seat, EVA grip-ends for and aft of a short 6" full-wells cork grip. Once I get these mounted I will decide whether I want a fore-grip or not. In this picture the cork grip is actually placed on top of the blank since I haven't reemed it out yet.
Please post some feedback and let me know what you think of this layout. Once I get these components settled we can talk guides ... I'm leaning toward REC recoils.. Thanks! Alec

Image
The Big Stick!


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Post 18 Mar 2006, 06:52 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4971
Location: US-MT
How long is said "Big Stick"? Are you throwing shooting heads? Can't wait to hear how it works. Over here (Libby MT) I chuck heavy shooting heads and amnesia running line for big bows and bull trout in the Kootenai river. It is one of the few times that I lean towards graphite. I have an ff857 that will do it, but wish for something better.
FIghting butts, I remeber 30 years ago thinking fighting butts were butt-ass ugly on rods, now I even have em on a couple of 5wts (glass) I use for carp fishing, would not be without em!
Keith


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Post 18 Mar 2006, 07:07 • #3 
FFR Founder
Joined: 06/07/05
Posts: 792
Location: US-MA
It's a 9' rod. I may consider lopping 6 inches off the tip. We'll see. I plan on taping guides and casting before I wrap and epoxy. A fighting butt is essential on these rods. I also think the mini-gimbal will be fun. I'm gonna make an old style leather gimbal cup. Graphite? Naw ... this is not a rod for lots of distance casting, but a tough rod with good lifting power. Cheers, Alec


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Post 18 Mar 2006, 15:28 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/09/05
Posts: 2525
Location: US-CO
... straight from the days of "wooden ships and iron men".

paveglass


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Post 21 Mar 2006, 02:26 • #5 
New Member
Joined: 03/20/06
Posts: 16
I finished a 9' 9wt honey lamiglas last year. I went in a little different direction you might want to consider. I extended the blank 5" with a piece of solid glass to improve balance and so I could use the rod as a two handed overhead caster. It took me a few sessions to learn two handed and dial in the stroke but I really like it for this kind of rod, especially since I am double haul challenged.

What I did not anticipate was the great deduction in tip bounce with a two handed grip. It is very significant. I used the SF REC guides and REC strippers and probably paid more for them than the blank. There are a lot of benefits but even with REC's heavy series the wire is noticeably thinner than chrome SF and I do not "feel" good about it. A personal quirk!

The 5" butt is in the way a little when I retrieve and if I were to do it again I would make it 4". Tight lines John


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Post 25 Mar 2006, 05:01 • #6 
Sport
Joined: 07/01/05
Posts: 92
Nice rod Alec, here's my two cents. I would make a short cork (or foam) extension to go between the seat and gimble. Just a couple of inches or so. It will give better reel clearance come in handy when actually using a fighting belt. The mushroom looks great ... but ... when not using the gimbal it is more prone to being accidentally knocked off. I would go with a more flush design or a shimano stlye with the bulb at the rear and a longer collar. When fishing big game (So Cal/ Mexico) instead of a foregrip i tend to lock the rod under my entire left forearm and grab the blank with my
right hand just ahead of my left hand. I am convinced that foregrips hinder casting and sometimes 10' makes the difference between getting bit and not on the boils and transom charges out here. I love what you did with the grip. That is truly a unique and practical design. I say that 9' should be good. A correct split between giving the big striper too much leverage against you and hamstringing yourself on casting from a boat. Good luck with that and i would really like to see the finished product.


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Post 25 Mar 2006, 16:22 • #7 
FFR Founder
Joined: 06/07/05
Posts: 792
Location: US-MA
West - That is great feedback, thanks. I will see what I can figure out in terms of extending the gimbal. The mushroom cap is on there pretty tight and I do like the look, so I think I may keep it, but we'll see. Thanks for the advice on the foregrip - I have never fished w/one so I am glad to hear your feelings on them. What do yu think about guides? I just ordered some titanium frame guides from Mudhole for a rod I am building for a neighbor and I must say I am impressed. Thanks again for your feedback! Tight lines, Alec


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Post 28 Mar 2006, 04:16 • #8 
Sport
Joined: 07/01/05
Posts: 92
I agree Alec, the mushroom looks just great and it is a minor point as to whether it may pop off or not. I have always thought of the caps over gimbals as purely a cover for it. You have hit on a way to give it style and i like it. I go with good ceramic strippers, oversize snakes and oversize ring tip or ceramic, sometimes. We chase sharks on the fly out here and that is a bit of a departure, i.e. Short, strong rods, built more for lifting power than casting distance. That is when i go for as much high end ceramic as i can. Even three strippers on an 8' 15wt rod. Heck, i would go with ceramic casting guides all the way down but it violates my rules on what constitutes a fly rod, so there will always be snakes in there somewhere.
>
I tend to see your big Striper rod application as what i would use for Yellowtail, out here. Correct me if am off base. You need some length because casting distance and casting from a boat are critical factors. There will be times when you really need to punch it out there, especially when the wind is up. They are strong hard fighting fish, that, altough you hooked them on top, they will dredge when hooked and you need something that will turn their heads and keep them out of the rocks. That is one of the more difficult things to get out of a fly rod; both distance and lifting power. It would be a lot easier to make it an "either or" proposition. I am very interested to see how your rod will perform, especially on the lifting part. I have exploded graphite trying to keep a big yellow out of the rocks.
>
Good luck with that and keep us posted.


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