First, let's be sure we are talking about the same reel. Here are the papers viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1366&start=25#p13699 . One of the models shown here, right ? viewtopic.php?f=4&t=68107&hilit=convert+Airex#p366245

A little roughness, assuming you did clean and lubricate the parts, might still be normal for a while until the bearing surfaces wear in to the new contact positions and pressure pattern.

The V-springs, as shown--typical of reels of the time, which were default designed and delivered RHW--slightly favor that even when the pawl is flipped. Its more abrupt edge does now meet the gear on outgoing rotation (pay), clockwise, increasing resistance in that direction. But now it is rocked upward to bear on a more outboard position on the spring, so (think of the long, vs. the short leaf springs in an auto suspension), the spring acts slightly more gently, being, in effect, longer, than it does in RHW where the edge, rocks up to bear on, in effect, a shorter spring. Hard to describe, but if you follow the gear and lever pattern in each direction, you will see it.

Well, anyhow, tuning the spring or modifying/substituting with different pawl contour is an option. I wonder if it is also easy to remove the leaf spring(s) and reinstall them facing the opposite way. On the dual pawl model, it would be easy to fabricate a shim corresponding to the bolster one of the springs meets at the frame. Doing this along with flipping the pawl would result in mirror image mechanism as to how resistance is applied.

Might be fun to mess with. Possibly the position of the spring stanchions doesn't enable the springs to be fit in the opposite direction. I don't know but someone will.

you might want to read through this post about tuning springs
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5550&start=25#p247945

and don't over-think the RHW v LHW issue. You either wind with your right hand or left

The pawls don't look like they are installed correctly on the posts. Try flipping the pawls over on the posts and then trying both left and right hand bias.

Mike (et al. who've responded)-

I set the pawls as you've shown in the photo and that seems to be the best positioning so far but there is still more resistance winding in vs. taking line out. Once again YOUR springs (along with those in Ron and Tom's photos) are straight where they contact the pawls whereas mine are bent. Do I NEED to straighten them to get the best performance?

Thanks for posting the photos of your 373 LHW set-up. Like I said, it's the best that I've come up with so far.

Rick

Got it. I believe that I know someone who has the right tool and can do this for me (or show me HOW to do it).

Thanks again.

Do these reels growl ? in sound... ?

I have this one from Kevin - viewtopic.php?f=4&t=11838

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5550&start=25#p247945

all the pawls in photos above are correct orientation for LHW.

Round-headed pawls have a more narrow contact patch on the spring than flat-headed pawls - this reel is RHW only because of strong spring leverage and a pawl asymmetry that can't be flipped.


The reduced contact patch on round headed pawls makes pawl asymmetry and pawl timing (lead/lag angle of pawl relative to spindle center) more important than spring leverage.


but even the flat-headed pawl of a Martin helical spring check reverses perfectly on pawl asymmetry alone

Just be careful, shaping pawl springs is an art before you get to science.
You really need the correct wire-bending pliers to avoid breaking them.
When you have a spring shape you like, you set-temper, a simple soak - 15 minutes at 350oF is what I always use.