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Post 03 Dec 2020, 16:40 • #1 
Master Guide
Joined: 05/16/10
Posts: 815
Location: South of Houston, TX
In a fit of enthusiasm I once bought an early medalist reel from the 40s that had a round line guard and sculpted pillars, but also had failing plastic for the latch cover, handle, and drag adjustment screw.
My thought was that I could swap out a spool from a newer medalist and have a reel like the coveted 30's models, but cheaper. So I also bought a 1494 from the 50s, and the spool worked in the earlier model. But the plastics were too white, and it wasn't really what I wanted, and it turned a perfectly functional 1950s reel into a parts reel. So I set the 40's reel in a drawer and reassembled the 50's model.
I know I could have bought a lovely new latch cover and handle from One Pfoot, but then I probably should get the drag adjustment screw too, which would mean I have a large investment into a reel that didn't have perfect paint and I had to reel with the wrong (to me) hand. If I'm splashing out that kind of money, I'd rather it be on a perfect reel. So the reel continued to sit in the drawer.

I think I could cast a new latch cover out of either resin or metal based on a mold I could make from one of my other medalists, but the issue with that is that I'd have to spend more for the materials than I could just buy a One Pfoot latch cover and handle for.

So for a proof of concept, I opted to make up a couple of quick replacement parts from some oak from an old pallet. Turns out they work. I could have spent a bit more time making them look better. The handle especially will need cut off and replaced, but the idea of shaping it, splitting it, and gluing it around the pillar of the handle seems to work.

I thought I'd share this idea of getting an old medalist back on the water by fabbing up your own parts.

Thanks Bulldog for your PM insights into the metallurgy of the original 1930's latch plate.

So here's a pic of the reel ready for water, if not a close-up.


And here's a couple of progress shots, that could give someone an idea of the process I used.



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Post 03 Dec 2020, 18:42 • #2 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19109
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
good solution
Pflueger's experiments with plastic formulation in the 40s were pretty lousy.
I had the NIB Gem from May '42 that had never been fished because the handle melted in the box.
Some batches of these "candy cane" plastic handles worked, some didn't - but they did look sharp.
1935 Gem
Image


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Post 07 Dec 2020, 12:45 • #3 
Master Guide
Joined: 05/16/10
Posts: 815
Location: South of Houston, TX
Thank you!
Much appreciated. The handle I pictured above was too flawed, so I’ve already cracked it off and made another. It still needs finishing, but the shape is better.

And I’ve added some finish to the handle, and decided to paint the center cap. It’s not elegant, but it works as good as it ever did. So that’s something. :).


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Post 07 Dec 2020, 15:51 • #4 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19109
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
looks great, just one thing to keep in mind about wood knobs - when wet, they can swell just like poor plastic formulations swell in decomposition.


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Post 07 Dec 2020, 16:42 • #5 
Master Guide
Joined: 05/16/10
Posts: 815
Location: South of Houston, TX
Good point. I sealed the wood with superglue prior to varnish, but maybe some impregnated wood would have been a better choice. I'll see how it holds up.


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Post 09 Dec 2020, 13:42 • #6 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19109
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
way cool - it looks really sharp.

thought I'd throw these up - tinkering on Japantackle, ran across this great wood handles, intended to be paired on baitcasters
https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/ha ... 00245.html


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