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Post 17 Mar 2020, 19:06 • #1 
Sport
Joined: 06/20/19
Posts: 97
Location: US-SW PA
I recently acquired a Shakespeare Wonderod 6'6" FY-910 5wt (thanks Miles) as well as a 7'9" FY-950 4pc 5wt. To my naive surprise none of my existing(read:newer) reels mate nicely to the reel seat on these rods. So I need a little help directing my focus towards an appropriately sized line holder .

Medalist 1492 seems a natural. Does anyone see any faults with this line of thinking?

And I see a ton of stuff out there on the auction site...Martin, Young etc. Much Shakespeare as well which is an obvious choice I suppose. Catch is I do not know which model #s appropriate for a 5wt. (With one more cup of coffee I *may* have been able to ask this question in 2 sentences).

Any suggestions really appreciated.






Thanks all,
Andrew


Last edited by Ligoniera1 on 18 Mar 2020, 06:20, edited 1 time in total.

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Post 17 Mar 2020, 19:13 • #2 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
You might show us the reel seats and the reel feet and explain what doesn't work about them.
But yes, there's a very good chance a period reel is going to mesh better.


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Post 17 Mar 2020, 20:15 • #3 
New Member
Joined: 02/10/16
Posts: 22
Location: Republic of Korea
The reel seats are no doubt spring loaded and slide up from the bottom. Most Medalists will fit, but many other reels as well.


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Post 17 Mar 2020, 21:36 • #4 
Guide
Joined: 02/03/19
Posts: 145
Location: San Antonio, TX
I own FY-A 910UL 6'6" Purist. My rod has the standard aluminum down locking seat. I have used a 1494DA Medalist, a Zebco Z56 Hardy clone, and a Shakespeare Purist 7534 (the Shakespeare badged 1494DA) on the rod. All these reels fit well, balance the rod well, and look good. I have settled on the 7534. Something neat about fishing a Purist reel on a Purist rod. The Shakespeare Purist reels are normally cheaper than their Pflueger counterparts. My 1494DA Pflueger spool works on the Shakespeare 7534 frame and vice versa. Mike


Last edited by MikeI on 17 Mar 2020, 21:40, edited 1 time in total.

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Post 17 Mar 2020, 21:40 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 02/27/16
Posts: 2327
Location: US-IL
I believe any of the hardy clones fit,I will check tomorrow.I have 5 of these rods and fish them regularly.On the 7 footers i have more modern reels.I think i use a cabelas cahill,a more modern hardy clone.


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 02:31 • #6 
New Member
Joined: 02/10/16
Posts: 22
Location: Republic of Korea
Pictures would be best. Even just a cell phone snap would get the ball rolling.


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 06:44 • #7 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
The only WondeRod I had for reference is the 1270T, a particularly heavy rod for 7'9". Also with the spring seat, and I remember it taking Medalist and Martin chromed brass feet well.
The reel I always wanted to match for style was a Shakespeare AuSable, but sold the rod for other interests before I got there.
Hersh's recommendation of Hardy clone sounds like a nice match.
I can tell you all about JW Young reel feet - e.g., the early postwar square-ended foot fits the Granger patent seat better than any other foot on any other reel,
But have never tried it on Shakespeare reel seat, which gets us back to my original request.


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 09:10 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 02/19/08
Posts: 1218
Location: Branson, Missouri
Any Orvis clicker will work... if its a CFO.

Cheers - Brian


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 09:29 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Now there's a fun reason to get some "new" reels that you may even come to prefer to your new ones. On the other hand, being a utilitarian type, if I have a rod I like but for a component such as the grip or reel seat, I just modify or change it--any easy enough process you could consider if one of your current reels is a favorite.


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 13:04 • #10 
Sport
Joined: 06/20/19
Posts: 97
Location: US-SW PA
Brian Shaffer wrote:
Any Orvis clicker will work... if its a CFO.

Cheers - Brian


Brian , I wish this were the case. I have been trying with a CFO that..while I do not know it's actual date of manufacture....is a "made in England" version from before they moved to Taiwan and then back to England. Same with my Battenkills. I'll just have to revisit this and get some pics for you all.

The reel foot seems too thick....too high profile....to slip/nestle into the the receiving portion of the seat. Unless I'm missing something.

Edit to say that....in addition to not fitting all that well my CFO is much too light. I'm not a huge proponent of rod/reel balance...close enough is close enough.... but my 4pc FY-950 has 2 extra ferrules and commensurate wraps......action is sublime but she need a bit of counterbalance. My(perhaps erroneous) assumption is that a period correct common man's fly reel would have a bit of mass to help the situation.

And I readily confess that part of this is indeed the joy of learning about vintage reels. I finally have a need.


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 14:17 • #11 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/05/06
Posts: 2087
Location: US-PA
Ligoniera1 wrote:
I recently acquired a Shakespeare Wonderod 6'6" FY-910 5wt (thanks Miles) as well as a 7'9" FY-950 4pc 5wt. To my naive surprise none of my existing(read:newer) reels mate nicely to the reel seat on these rods. So I need a little help directing my focus towards an appropriately sized line holder .

Medalist 1492 seems a natural. Does anyone see any faults with this line of thinking?

Will a 5wt line fit on a 1492?

I'd be thinking a 1494 would be the ticket, at least capacity-wise.


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 14:35 • #12 
Master Guide
Joined: 04/12/18
Posts: 457
This situation is a fine excuse to go on a vintage trout reel buying binge. Lots of them are very inexpensive and the auction site is loaded with them. Go nuts!


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 15:01 • #13 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 2498
Location: South of Joplin
Like Bamboozle, I think 1494 is correct for #5 line with about 25 yards of backing and possibly for rod balance, ~4.5oz, but I might opt for 1495 w 75yds, ~6oz.
I don't have personal experience with those models, but, those are late 1960s rods so I would have thought almost any reel would fit.


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 15:58 • #14 
Sport
Joined: 06/20/19
Posts: 97
Location: US-SW PA
Brian, you were right. With the CFO outside in the daylight and a bit of time to fuss with it....I managed to get it to mount up to both rods/reel seats. The cork seat on the FY-950 is tight but seems a bit more forgiving...the seat on the 910 UL is *just* long enough to fit the reel seat...but it does work. So from a fit perspective I fear I have been wasting your time in this thread. Please accept my apologies. I don't even drink anymore;-)

desmobob wrote:
This situation is a fine excuse to go on a vintage trout reel buying binge. Lots of them are very inexpensive and the auction site is loaded with them. Go nuts!


LOL, this is, if I am honest with myself....the intent and direction. I just wanted a modest amount of focus from this knowledgeable crew. Otherwise I fear what I am capable of.

Trev wrote:
Like Bamboozle, I think 1494 is correct for #5 line with about 25 yards of backing and possibly for rod balance, ~4.5oz, but I might opt for 1495 w 75yds, ~6oz.
I don't have personal experience with those models, but, those are late 1960s rods so I would have thought almost any reel would fit.


Ok, noted with thanks. I have a 1495 DA on my Nile Green 1240. It needs some love and lube but I will try that while scouring the interwebz for a 1494 or two.


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 16:10 • #15 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
If in doubt between the 1492 and 1494, the more so if not "balance" fussy, the 1494 will be a more versatile choice for use with other rod/line combinations. Be glad you have a good tight fit on the cork seat. Resist the temptation to sand it. Cork is resilient and that is one reason it provides a good secure fit. Like a cork footbed in a fine boot, it will slightly shape to the reel foot and hold even better.


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Post 18 Mar 2020, 16:25 • #16 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 05/19/14
Posts: 3925
Location: USA - Illinois
I have a 1392 with a DT 406 5 weight - 80 feet length. I have about 6 yards of backing, then the line.
I would agree, the 1494 (or 1394) would likely balance better and certainly open up line choices.


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Post 19 Mar 2020, 06:18 • #17 
Guide
Joined: 01/25/20
Posts: 120
Location: US-VA
Probably silly question, but how do you properly balance the reel and rod? Where is the point on rod you want test balance?


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Post 19 Mar 2020, 06:58 • #18 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
that's one of those peeing contests that people way over think, extrapolate, and mention Charles Ritz kept his reel in his pocket.
With a heavy combo, too tip heavy puts excess torsion on your joints (with a day of fishing - Charles Ritz was casting).
With a light combo, too butt-heavy dampens feel of the rod loading and increases tailing loop tendency.
I like a static balance point a couple of inches in front of the cork - others like dead center on the cork, and of course, there's all the distance in between.

Part of the argument for uplocking reel seats was they moved the balance point forward on light rods with questionably heavy drag reels - then there are all the reels with forward-projecting feet to take that even farther. (Ari Hart, Van Staal, etc.)


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Post 19 Mar 2020, 09:08 • #19 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 2498
Location: South of Joplin
Aside from casting, if the combo is reel heavy the tip will tend to rise up while holding the rod parallel to while walking in or fishing, if the combo is tip heavy it tend to point down; some folks think this is tiring or uncomfortable. (I think I've seen this cited more often than casting feel. )
I think balance should be with 30' of line pulled off the reel, as in fishing, because it both lightens the reel and makes the tip much heavier and this is the way the rod will actually feel when in use, casting or fishing. With the line rolled up that probably puts the balance 3"-5" in front of the grip. But, most people that make a big deal of balance insist it should be line rolled up and in the upper half of the grip.


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Post 19 Mar 2020, 19:06 • #20 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 02/27/16
Posts: 2327
Location: US-IL
I have 2 910 ul 6'6.Both have down lockers that are very narrow and the cap end is a little tight but the sliding top fits martins and a small daiwa 730 is what i use.A little nicer hardy clone.But i believe i have shortened peach dt on it.It is a small reel.The smaller Young reels fit because i have seen them on member and wonderod freak Tooty's rods.I These rods are blast to fish for well panfish and unlike the modern craze of 2 and 3 wts can handle a bass or small pike or carp.


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Post 05 Apr 2020, 07:30 • #21 
Sport
Joined: 05/15/18
Posts: 71
Location: Southern Shenandoah Valley, Virginia
I've fished mine with a K-Mart 33, a clone of a 1494 Medalist. Fits a 5wt double taper line and some backing (not sure how much exactly) with no problem.


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Post 05 Apr 2020, 10:34 • #22 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/04/12
Posts: 705
Location: SE Pa
I think a "SHAKESPEARE SIGMA 94" is a quality knock-off of a 5wt size Medalist - am I correct? They can be had on ebay rather inexpensively, made in the USA.


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Post 05 Apr 2020, 11:05 • #23 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
since Shakespeare owned Pflueger then, it's probably more accurate it a lower-grade version of the Medalist.


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Post 05 Apr 2020, 11:17 • #24 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/04/12
Posts: 705
Location: SE Pa
Thanks. - I had thought the US made Shakespeare & Medalist equivalents had interchangeable parts.




Please review the posting guide about the use of quotations.


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Post 05 Apr 2020, 13:48 • #25 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
I can't say exactly which parts from Pflueger copies exchange, many of them Japan made, including some of the Shakespeare's and Pflueger's own Progress model. There are the Shakespeare Purists as well. Springs are the most likely, but many others do--or can be made to work, latch springs, latches, and spool latch covers, for instance. The relative quality may be a minor concern, but a working part from any of them is better than a lost or worn out one.


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