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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 18 Feb 2016, 20:29 • #51 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
well thanks, it's actually a stick I put there a long time ago.


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 26 Feb 2016, 13:15 • #52 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Sealpool wrote:
Hey Bulldog: I have an old J W Young fly reel.The it is a single pawl reel and the pawl spring is getting weak (not enough drag on the reel).The reel has no way to tighten the drag.Is there a way to tweak the pawl spring,so the reel has more drag.I was told the reel is almost 100 yrs old.Would you be able to make me a spring,if I sent you the old spring?
I have a long essay on pawl springs on Mechanical Bits thread, p2. But I'm not sure it contains this simple bit:
Assuming this is a Pridex, take the spring out, simply spread it a little, install for trial and error test, and when you like it, bake the spring in the oven at 350F for 15 min to set-temper it. (the time is not specific, just long enough to soak the temperature)
if perchance the spring breaks on you (unlikely), then we can talk about a part

If it's a Condex, the springs are a booger to both remove and re-install. I can drill out the Condex stanchion rivet and reinstall it with a Pridex screw stanchion making it as easy to exchange the spring as a Beaudex or Pridex. If it is a Condex, send me a pm and we can talk about part or service.


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 26 Feb 2016, 13:16 • #53 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
nayls wrote:
I recently converted a Battenkill Lightweight W from RHR to LHR. It seams the drag was stronger when RHR . Is this possible .
definitely possible
two choices here
might search lead and lag (Mechanical Bits thread) to see what I'm talking about - you had lead in RHW and now you have lag in LHW.
Image Image
You can imrove the spring angle and tension by closing the knee bend (arrow) just a bit.
You have to use spring bending pliers, and you simply have to squeeze there a few times.
http://www.micromark.com/small-wire-loo ... ,6617.html (small wire loop pliers)
could also make a series of squeezes along that lower leaf to increase the overall tension of the spring.

Second choice is drill out the spring stanchion rivet and replace it with a Pridex/Beaudex screw stanchion, allowing you (or me) to handle the spring and reshape it. (the nice thing about this is you can fine-tune the spring shape and set-temper the loose spring)
I have the alloy part (Pridex Light) and we can discuss further if you'd like.


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 05 Mar 2017, 10:26 • #54 
Guide
Joined: 02/05/17
Posts: 137
Location: NorCal
Thank you bulldog, I now have a much better understanding of the workings in a click and pawl. Great read.


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 05 Mar 2017, 11:48 • #55 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
you're welcome


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 06 Apr 2017, 18:24 • #56 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
brockton wrote:
I've got a Martin MG10 that I like, but I think the drag could be stronger (don't need it to really clamp down, just feel like it's worn down a bit). Any tips to strengthen it? Is it all controlled by the springs?

take the coil spring out and stretch it - a little goes a long way.
Oh yeah, do this in a shoe box.

Image


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 15 Apr 2017, 07:30 • #57 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Below is necessary information that belongs in this thread - all credit goes to Southbranch for having the foresight to copy it when it was still available on the internet - I cut the useful stuff from his quote below to make sure it appeared full size
(Bill's original source was Pflueger)
viewtopic.php?p=254735#p254735
Southbranch wrote:
Here are the Pflueger Medalist line capacity tables I copied some time ago from Bill Franke's Onepfoot.com:...

Line and Backing Capacity for Pflueger Medalist Reels

The following measurements are GUIDELINES ONLY. The actual amount of backing required for individual Medalists may vary due to differences in tension used when winding backing and fly lines. Discrepancies in winding machines, variations in manufacturers’ fly lines, and personal preference may affect the amount of backing that you get on your reel. The following measurements were made using Cortland DT and WF floating fly lines.Image


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 11 May 2017, 22:00 • #58 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
another reason to mess with little springs in a shoebox, but note the success using pressure through the vent hole to drive the stuck pawl out of the guide hole
Lotech Joe wrote:
I lost the spring behind the drag engagement plunger on a Medalist 1494 DA. While waiting for a new spring, I wanted to be sure I knew where I put the plunger, so, like a dummy, I put it back in the hole where the spring goes. Then I couldn't get it out when the time came. I tried a knife, I tried a bodkin and a straight pin. I even tried to drill it out. Nothing worked. I even thought that if I could get some air behind it I might be able to blow it out, but I didn't want to drill a hole in the reel. I finally settled on compressed air, like the stuff you use to clean computer keyboards. After only 3-5 seconds of blowing air into the hole, that pesky little plunger popped right out. Lucky me! :)


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 10 Aug 2017, 11:20 • #59 
Sport
Joined: 02/20/08
Posts: 90
Location: US-LA
bulldog1935 wrote:
Below is necessary information that belongs in this thread - all credit goes to Southbranch for having the foresight to copy it when it was still available on the internet - I cut the useful stuff from his quote below to make sure it appeared full size
(Bill's original source was Pflueger)
viewtopic.php?p=254735#p254735
Southbranch wrote:
Here are the Pflueger Medalist line capacity tables I copied some time ago from Bill Franke's Onepfoot.com:...

Line and Backing Capacity for Pflueger Medalist Reels

The following measurements are GUIDELINES ONLY. The actual amount of backing required for individual Medalists may vary due to differences in tension used when winding backing and fly lines. Discrepancies in winding machines, variations in manufacturers’ fly lines, and personal preference may affect the amount of backing that you get on your reel. The following measurements were made using Cortland DT and WF floating fly lines.

Image


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Photobucket Phreedom
Post 04 Oct 2017, 17:39 • #60 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Seeing Past Photobucket Hotlink Block

stiles wrote:
Apparently this add-on is a free fix for hot linking images from photobucket.
For Mozilla:
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefo ... ucket-fix/

For Chrome:
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/deta ... 6768501086


If you want to see all the images on this forum again, reel papers, etc, load the free add-on for your browser and you'll see everything.
If you don't want the add-on later you can remove it from extensions (or on Chrome, right-click on your toolbar)

Every photobucket link on the internet is still good. Every photobucket link you post is still good. All the information is there. If you want a see it, on your browser, you need the free patch that sees the original photo instead of the ransom demand - as I've said all along, it costs photobucket the exact same bandwidth to send out both, and both are still there. The patch lets you choose which one you see.

Uploading the patch, you're not doing photobucket any favors, giving them any money, agreeing with them - all you're doing is restoring your old knowledge base to where it was before the photobucket ransom


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 19 Oct 2017, 07:10 • #61 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
ibookje wrote:
I just acquired this nice Medalist 1492. The size is great for 3-4 weight rods.

However the outgoing click is very 'stiff' while the ongoing click is very soft. Is there a way to get the outgoing click softer?

Image

you can probably do it yourself with a pair of needle nose pliers - try closing the spring against itself with the pliers - do it a little bit at a time until it's relaxed to where you like it.


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 27 Jan 2020, 09:35 • #62 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Exceptional repair of an unusual Medalist drag failure
Bill Sonnett wrote:
Repair of Medalist

The repair went better than I hoped for. Luckily I found what had to be the perfect part for the repair. The small black washer was the perfect size. It came in a pack of shims I acquired 25 years ago from a former worker who plied his trade in the Bronson Reel Company repair room. The very thin copper-colored shims have proved useful in taking the play out of Shakespeare Marhoff reels handles and are perfect for removing any “in and out” play in a Medalist spool. The small black washers I have used over the years for centering the spools on Coxe 25 reels after the phosphor-bronze pinion gear has worn away the softer metal socket in which the crossbar screws into. I’m not sure what the black coating on the washers is, but I have never seen it worn off when the pinion gear turns against it in extended fishing time. In order to make sure JB Weld could get a good grip, I sanded off the black coating on one side and left the surface rough.

I purchased a fresh batch of JB Weld as my experience is that it loses its strength starting a few weeks after the seals are broken. I used a dental pick to apply JBW in an extremely small lime surrounding the tube that the spring-loaded pawl slides in. This area was also scratched with the point of a jewelers file to give the JBW a rough, fresh metal surface to bond to. The pin itself was lightly greased to prevent any contact with the epoxy. To assure that the collar on the pin did not contact the epoxy the pin needed to be depressed while the epoxy cured for 20 hours. This proved harder than it sounds. This small 80+-year-old spring is one tough customer. No weight I placed on it was heavy enough to keep the pin depressed to the point that it was flush with the surface. Even a 3 oz lead weight would not do the job. Finally settled on my Great Grandfather’s miniature anvil (he made it in 1913--he was a machinist) turned upside down and even that needed additional weight in the form of a small can of paint. When the weight was removed 20 hours later the pin function perfectly when the spool was placed back in the reel proper, All is well that ends well.
Image
Image
Image
Image

discussion here:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=68102


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 06 Mar 2020, 18:29 • #63 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Pa mountains wrote:
Hello, new to the group from Pa, I was wondering if you can change the retrieval on a meisselbach symploreel 370. Thanks

Congratulations - Great reel, especially for a light glass rod - absolutely can change the wind.
The two C-shaped springs which form a heart.
You loosen the screws from the backplate, and slide each independently to adjust the wind/pay lead/lag.
If you have a question about what that means, try this thread

Image

Image Image


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 03 Apr 2020, 17:50 • #64 
Sport
Joined: 11/08/13
Posts: 29
Location: Oxford, Pennsylvania

Speedex is set up for RHW. Can it be converted to LHW? If so, do I flip the pawl? Anything else? Thank you in advance.


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 03 Apr 2020, 18:36 • #65 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Tups wrote:

Speedex is set up for RHW. Can it be converted to LHW? If so, do I flip the pawl? Anything else? Thank you in advance.

Easier to see on this Hardy:
Image
1 - you need to flip the pawl
2 - you can also adjust the lead of the pawl in LHW by increasing the "knee" bend in the spring - best to use wire-bending pliers so you don't break the spring, and a little bit goes a long way.


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 03 Apr 2020, 20:46 • #66 
Sport
Joined: 11/08/13
Posts: 29
Location: Oxford, Pennsylvania
Thanks Bulldog. I will definitely flip the pawl and see how that feels. Maybe mess with the spring if necessary. Will heed your advice and use only a rounded pliers. Hopefully I’ll be happy with just the pawl flip. Thanks again.


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 19 May 2020, 19:26 • #67 
New Member
Joined: 05/22/18
Posts: 20
Location: US-VA
Regarding re-seating handle posts using JB Weld, where the post has pulled out (if it matters, not a riveted or threaded but a peened brass piece), would the hold be better if the existing hole is reamed slightly larger or just chased enough to shine the metal? Thanks.


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Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 19 May 2020, 20:02 • #68 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16310
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I always removed the splayed rivet, wetted the hole with JBWeld, and gave it a good foot of JB weld.


While you don't want too much protruding build-up of JBWeld, the mass helps the curing process -
- as in one larger "clump" cures harder and more completely than two smaller "clumps" that add up to the same mass.


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