It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 17:20


Previous  1, 2, 3 New Topic Add Reply
Author Message
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 18 Feb 2016, 20:29 • #51 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
well thanks, it's actually a stick I put there a long time ago.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 26 Feb 2016, 13:15 • #52 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Sealpool wrote:
Hey Bulldog: I have an old J W Young fly reel.The it is a single pawl reel and the pawl spring is getting weak (not enough drag on the reel).The reel has no way to tighten the drag.Is there a way to tweak the pawl spring,so the reel has more drag.I was told the reel is almost 100 yrs old.Would you be able to make me a spring,if I sent you the old spring?
I have a long essay on pawl springs on Mechanical Bits thread, p2. But I'm not sure it contains this simple bit:
Assuming this is a Pridex, take the spring out, simply spread it a little, install for trial and error test, and when you like it, bake the spring in the oven at 350F for 15 min to set-temper it. (the time is not specific, just long enough to soak the temperature)
if perchance the spring breaks on you (unlikely), then we can talk about a part

If it's a Condex, the springs are a booger to both remove and re-install. I can drill out the Condex stanchion rivet and reinstall it with a Pridex screw stanchion making it as easy to exchange the spring as a Beaudex or Pridex. If it is a Condex, send me a pm and we can talk about part or service.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 26 Feb 2016, 13:16 • #53 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
nayls wrote:
I recently converted a Battenkill Lightweight W from RHR to LHR. It seams the drag was stronger when RHR . Is this possible .
definitely possible
two choices here
might search lead and lag (Mechanical Bits thread) to see what I'm talking about - you had lead in RHW and now you have lag in LHW.
Image Image
You can imrove the spring angle and tension by closing the knee bend (arrow) just a bit.
You have to use spring bending pliers, and you simply have to squeeze there a few times.
http://www.micromark.com/small-wire-loo ... ,6617.html (small wire loop pliers)
could also make a series of squeezes along that lower leaf to increase the overall tension of the spring.

Second choice is drill out the spring stanchion rivet and replace it with a Pridex/Beaudex screw stanchion, allowing you (or me) to handle the spring and reshape it. (the nice thing about this is you can fine-tune the spring shape and set-temper the loose spring)
I have the alloy part (Pridex Light) and we can discuss further if you'd like.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 05 Mar 2017, 10:26 • #54 
Guide
Joined: 02/05/17
Posts: 131
Location: NorCal
Thank you bulldog, I now have a much better understanding of the workings in a click and pawl. Great read.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 05 Mar 2017, 11:48 • #55 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
you're welcome


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 06 Apr 2017, 18:24 • #56 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
brockton wrote:
I've got a Martin MG10 that I like, but I think the drag could be stronger (don't need it to really clamp down, just feel like it's worn down a bit). Any tips to strengthen it? Is it all controlled by the springs?

take the coil spring out and stretch it - a little goes a long way.
Oh yeah, do this in a shoe box.

Image


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 15 Apr 2017, 07:30 • #57 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Below is necessary information that belongs in this thread - all credit goes to Southbranch for having the foresight to copy it when it was still available on the internet - I cut the useful stuff from his quote below to make sure it appeared full size
(Bill's original source was Pflueger)
viewtopic.php?p=254735#p254735
Southbranch wrote:
Here are the Pflueger Medalist line capacity tables I copied some time ago from Bill Franke's Onepfoot.com:...

Line and Backing Capacity for Pflueger Medalist Reels

The following measurements are GUIDELINES ONLY. The actual amount of backing required for individual Medalists may vary due to differences in tension used when winding backing and fly lines. Discrepancies in winding machines, variations in manufacturers’ fly lines, and personal preference may affect the amount of backing that you get on your reel. The following measurements were made using Cortland DT and WF floating fly lines.Image


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 11 May 2017, 22:00 • #58 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
another reason to mess with little springs in a shoebox, but note the success using pressure through the vent hole to drive the stuck pawl out of the guide hole
Lotech Joe wrote:
I lost the spring behind the drag engagement plunger on a Medalist 1494 DA. While waiting for a new spring, I wanted to be sure I knew where I put the plunger, so, like a dummy, I put it back in the hole where the spring goes. Then I couldn't get it out when the time came. I tried a knife, I tried a bodkin and a straight pin. I even tried to drill it out. Nothing worked. I even thought that if I could get some air behind it I might be able to blow it out, but I didn't want to drill a hole in the reel. I finally settled on compressed air, like the stuff you use to clean computer keyboards. After only 3-5 seconds of blowing air into the hole, that pesky little plunger popped right out. Lucky me! :)


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 10 Aug 2017, 11:20 • #59 
Sport
Joined: 02/20/08
Posts: 96
Location: US-LA
bulldog1935 wrote:
Below is necessary information that belongs in this thread - all credit goes to Southbranch for having the foresight to copy it when it was still available on the internet - I cut the useful stuff from his quote below to make sure it appeared full size
(Bill's original source was Pflueger)
viewtopic.php?p=254735#p254735
Southbranch wrote:
Here are the Pflueger Medalist line capacity tables I copied some time ago from Bill Franke's Onepfoot.com:...

Line and Backing Capacity for Pflueger Medalist Reels

The following measurements are GUIDELINES ONLY. The actual amount of backing required for individual Medalists may vary due to differences in tension used when winding backing and fly lines. Discrepancies in winding machines, variations in manufacturers’ fly lines, and personal preference may affect the amount of backing that you get on your reel. The following measurements were made using Cortland DT and WF floating fly lines.

Image


Top
  
Quote
Photobucket Phreedom
Post 04 Oct 2017, 17:39 • #60 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Seeing Past Photobucket Hotlink Block

stiles wrote:
Apparently this add-on is a free fix for hot linking images from photobucket.
For Mozilla:
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefo ... ucket-fix/

For Chrome:
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/deta ... 6768501086


If you want to see all the images on this forum again, reel papers, etc, load the free add-on for your browser and you'll see everything.
If you don't want the add-on later you can remove it from extensions (or on Chrome, right-click on your toolbar)

Every photobucket link on the internet is still good. Every photobucket link you post is still good. All the information is there. If you want a see it, on your browser, you need the free patch that sees the original photo instead of the ransom demand - as I've said all along, it costs photobucket the exact same bandwidth to send out both, and both are still there. The patch lets you choose which one you see.

Uploading the patch, you're not doing photobucket any favors, giving them any money, agreeing with them - all you're doing is restoring your old knowledge base to where it was before the photobucket ransom


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 19 Oct 2017, 07:10 • #61 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
ibookje wrote:
I just acquired this nice Medalist 1492. The size is great for 3-4 weight rods.

However the outgoing click is very 'stiff' while the ongoing click is very soft. Is there a way to get the outgoing click softer?

Image

you can probably do it yourself with a pair of needle nose pliers - try closing the spring against itself with the pliers - do it a little bit at a time until it's relaxed to where you like it.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 27 Jan 2020, 09:35 • #62 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Exceptional repair of an unusual Medalist drag failure
Bill Sonnett wrote:
Repair of Medalist

The repair went better than I hoped for. Luckily I found what had to be the perfect part for the repair. The small black washer was the perfect size. It came in a pack of shims I acquired 25 years ago from a former worker who plied his trade in the Bronson Reel Company repair room. The very thin copper-colored shims have proved useful in taking the play out of Shakespeare Marhoff reels handles and are perfect for removing any “in and out” play in a Medalist spool. The small black washers I have used over the years for centering the spools on Coxe 25 reels after the phosphor-bronze pinion gear has worn away the softer metal socket in which the crossbar screws into. I’m not sure what the black coating on the washers is, but I have never seen it worn off when the pinion gear turns against it in extended fishing time. In order to make sure JB Weld could get a good grip, I sanded off the black coating on one side and left the surface rough.

I purchased a fresh batch of JB Weld as my experience is that it loses its strength starting a few weeks after the seals are broken. I used a dental pick to apply JBW in an extremely small lime surrounding the tube that the spring-loaded pawl slides in. This area was also scratched with the point of a jewelers file to give the JBW a rough, fresh metal surface to bond to. The pin itself was lightly greased to prevent any contact with the epoxy. To assure that the collar on the pin did not contact the epoxy the pin needed to be depressed while the epoxy cured for 20 hours. This proved harder than it sounds. This small 80+-year-old spring is one tough customer. No weight I placed on it was heavy enough to keep the pin depressed to the point that it was flush with the surface. Even a 3 oz lead weight would not do the job. Finally settled on my Great Grandfather’s miniature anvil (he made it in 1913--he was a machinist) turned upside down and even that needed additional weight in the form of a small can of paint. When the weight was removed 20 hours later the pin function perfectly when the spool was placed back in the reel proper, All is well that ends well.
Image
Image
Image
Image

discussion here:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=68102


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 06 Mar 2020, 18:29 • #63 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Pa mountains wrote:
Hello, new to the group from Pa, I was wondering if you can change the retrieval on a meisselbach symploreel 370. Thanks

Congratulations - Great reel, especially for a light glass rod - absolutely can change the wind.
The two C-shaped springs which form a heart.
You loosen the screws from the backplate, and slide each independently to adjust the wind/pay lead/lag.
If you have a question about what that means, try this thread

Image

Image Image


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 03 Apr 2020, 17:50 • #64 
Sport
Joined: 11/08/13
Posts: 72
Location: Milroy Pennsylvania

Speedex is set up for RHW. Can it be converted to LHW? If so, do I flip the pawl? Anything else? Thank you in advance.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 03 Apr 2020, 18:36 • #65 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Tups wrote:

Speedex is set up for RHW. Can it be converted to LHW? If so, do I flip the pawl? Anything else? Thank you in advance.

Easier to see on this Hardy:
Image
1 - you need to flip the pawl
2 - you can also adjust the lead of the pawl in LHW by increasing the "knee" bend in the spring - best to use wire-bending pliers so you don't break the spring, and a little bit goes a long way.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 03 Apr 2020, 20:46 • #66 
Sport
Joined: 11/08/13
Posts: 72
Location: Milroy Pennsylvania
Thanks Bulldog. I will definitely flip the pawl and see how that feels. Maybe mess with the spring if necessary. Will heed your advice and use only a rounded pliers. Hopefully I’ll be happy with just the pawl flip. Thanks again.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 19 May 2020, 19:26 • #67 
Sport
Joined: 05/22/18
Posts: 25
Location: US-VA
Regarding re-seating handle posts using JB Weld, where the post has pulled out (if it matters, not a riveted or threaded but a peened brass piece), would the hold be better if the existing hole is reamed slightly larger or just chased enough to shine the metal? Thanks.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 19 May 2020, 20:02 • #68 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I always removed the splayed rivet, wetted the hole with JBWeld, and gave it a good foot of JB weld.


While you don't want too much protruding build-up of JBWeld, the mass helps the curing process -
- as in one larger "clump" cures harder and more completely than two smaller "clumps" that add up to the same mass.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 05 Feb 2022, 17:02 • #69 
New Member
Joined: 12/29/21
Posts: 16
Location: SF Bay Area
I've recently changed out some pretty worn cork drag washers with corkboard in 1mm and 2mm, it's smooth and held up well. I also keep bobby pins, "hair pins", on hand to replace the latch springs I lose to the abyss of my workroom. You can bend them to shape and heat set them in the oven but I find it unecessary for the tiny latch spring. Larger Pins can be used for pawl springs too.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 16 Dec 2023, 20:31 • #70 
Guide
Joined: 06/20/23
Posts: 131
Location: Wasilla Alaska
I realize i am replying to an ancient post; however this is testament to the tremendous knowledge base (aka bulldog) available to us.

Today i received what may be the cleanest Beaudex i own but the latch cap needs some work first. Soon i realized i could not get the spool off without removing the latch cap but it all went fine, not much to it actually except that the spring/latch lever were jumbled up under there and not operating properly.

Well, first thing i did was plug something into the search and low and behold i ended up here. And there in all her splendor is a completely assembled spring and lever for my viewing delight!

Thanks again, Mike


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 16 Dec 2023, 21:11 • #71 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Thanks, made my mistakes, too, but a lot of my copy has stood the test of time.
Last week, I ended up on the phone with a guy in my tailwater with a cane rod question, referred by my bud Jimbo, but who also knew of me from old CFRF posts.
He fishes a Meek 55 converted to LHW following my lead.
Image
This Mystery Pool holdover hen simply hopped out of my net, I snapped a 1-s photo effort and got her back in the water.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 27 Feb 2024, 20:40 • #72 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
flyfishchaplain wrote:
Hello,
I recently purchased a Martin MG-3 and have tried to convert it to LH retrieve. When I flipped the pawl and crank the handle it's perfect. However, when I reel in reverse, as in the case of drag, the metal bar in the photo rides up on the pawl and disengages the click from both reeling in and out. If I flip the pawl back to RH wind, everything works perfectly! Does anyone have any idea how to convert to LH retrieve without the malfunction?

Thanks,

Mark


You need a C-shaped/ slotted shim here.
You might do best with a plastic shim, something similar to old film stock.

The problem is free-play out of the plane. When the pawl is reversed, freeplay in the shorter lever is insiginficant.
In the orientation you have, freeplay at the end of the lever is too much.

uppercreek wrote:
Very helpful comment, Bulldog. I've had trouble converting Martin's from RH to LH with that kind of check system. Will have to give it a try.

BTW, I have used old film plastic to make shims to tighten up Hardy clone fly reels. A regular paper hole punch makes a perfect size hole to fit over the spindle, then trim it down with scissors.

Kevin

:like
______________________________________________

WD68 wrote:
My Hardy LRH (right-hand wind,) while not actually free-spooling, has lost some tension on the outward spin, making it a little loosey-goosey for fishing. Anyone know how to tighten things up at home, without sending out for repair?

Thanks very much!
You can remove the springs (I drive them out with a strip of Spanish cedar).
Spread the spring leaves wider - no need to bend.
Soak the spring in your oven at 350oF (15 min) to set the new shape.
Re-install - here I use a pair of needle-nose pliers to drive the spring onto its stanchion.

PureFishing also sells new LRH springs.


Top
  
Quote
Re: Mechanical Bits
Post 11 Mar 2024, 11:39 • #73 
New Member
Joined: 02/20/24
Posts: 9
Location: New Hampshire
Thanks for the response bulldog. Very appreciative when someone shares knowledge that others can use! I am a big fan of martin reels and it has taken me some time to learn their intricacies. I still have plenty to learn haha


Top
  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  

Previous  1, 2, 3 New Topic Add Reply



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Jump to:  
Google
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group