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Mechanical Bits
Post 13 Jun 2008, 01:55 • #1 
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I was surprised how many people responded to the simple procedure for adjusting end play and the spindle screw on a Young reel.
So I decided to start a sticky to copy posts about simple mechanical procedures.
Here's the first:

Postwar Young spool end play

the run-out screw in the center of the latch plate.

Image

Disengage the pawls and the spool should spin almost like a top.
the run-out screw in the center of the latch plate, tightened against the spindle tip, should allow just the slightest end play.
Tighten it until the spool starts to bind, then back it off to where you can feel that it's spinning freely.

There is the possibility of a bent latch bar.
This will show up in the runout adjustment as a the spool feeling free over most of the rotation and then binding up in one spot, or as a difference in end-play versus the rotation position.


Last edited by bulldog1935 on 13 Jun 2008, 02:01, edited 1 time in total.

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Mechanical Bits
Post 13 Jun 2008, 01:57 • #2 
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Quote:
This question is for Ron, since I remember reading about this in one of his posts ...

I have Milwards Flycraft in a nice shape (needs cleaning, though), with very slight spool movement. I remember reading in one of your posts about spindle adjustment with the screw and the nut on the very top (pictured below). Would that fix the tiny amount of spool wobble? The reel can be fished as is, but I wouldn't mind adjusting it slightly, if possible.

Thanks,
Vlad

Image

Hi Vlad,

great reel.
you need a socket (better, nutdriver) that fits the nut and a fine screwdriver. The idea is to take out all the end play and still have the spool spinning freely.
disengage the pawls and check for end play.

1) if it has end play, you need to loosen the nut and tighten the screw.
when it's just right, tighten the nut then the screw.

2) if it's binding, loosen the screw and tighten the nut a bit, retighten the screw and try again.

you will probably have to cycle between these two sequences to slowly dial it in

the last thing to always do is tighten the screw, make sure it freespools with minimum to no end-play.
tighten doesn't mean torque it down - everything just needs to be snug.

Re-engage the pawl.

that bad news is if you can't make end-play go away without drag on the spool. That means the latch bar is bent and needs to be bent back to flat. It's a bugger to disassemble the latch plate on the prewar design - actually to reassemble it and get the latch spring back in place - I have an algorithm for that, too ... (but it's a snap on postwar reels)

I love these reels
here's a 1937 Flycraft
Image


Last edited by bulldog1935 on 18 Jun 2008, 11:02, edited 1 time in total.

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Mechanical Bits
Post 13 Jun 2008, 02:16 • #3 
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Quote:
Hello my Friends,
could you please help put in the right place the Release Lever Spring and the Release Lever in the Pridex?
Thank you so much!
Best Regards,Image
João
Image

Put the latch bar in place on its boss, in the "closed" position.
Place the flat end of the spring against the latch bar - the bent leaf of the spring will be outside of the recess - and hold both together at the boss end with your finger.
Take a small screwdriver and push the bent leaf of the spring over the curved edge into the recess.

note that on a post-1962 reel, the bosses are inside the cap rather than on the spool face, so you follow this same procedure, only inside the cap ...


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Mechanical Bits
Post 13 Jun 2008, 02:48 • #4 
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Quote:
I recently picked up a Martin Trophy SD910. Can this reel be converted to LHW? If so can anyone explain how?
Also the drag and click work in the line out direction but there is no click when line is retrieved. Is that normal for this model?
The reel appears to be in nice shape.
Tom
there is a clutch plate screwed onto the back of the spool.
remove the two screws, flip the clutch plate, and put the screws back.
Image


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Mechanical Bits
Post 13 Jun 2008, 03:01 • #5 
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Quote:
Sorry to post twice (also in click and pawl thread) This may be a really dumb question, how do you know which way the pawl is suppose to be positioned for a left hand retrieve. On my reel which is silent upon retrieve, either way I place the pawl seems to function about the same. It is similiar to a redington CT reel, it is a Fin Nor Finite II. Thanks
this little reel is the best I've ever seen to show it.
This reel is set up for RHW.
Look at the orientation of the springs, and look at the orientation of the slots in the pawls.
To change to LHW, switch the engagement of the pawls, so that it looks like a mirror of this photo
Image (RHW shown)

Hardy clone (LHW shown)
Image

Martin (LHW shown)
Image

Symmetric (post-1959 Young) LHW shown
Image


Last edited by bulldog1935 on 13 Jun 2008, 04:45, edited 1 time in total.

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Mechanical Bits
Post 13 Jun 2008, 04:31 • #6 
Master Guide
Joined: 10/16/06
Posts: 526
Location: US-MD
Great information Ron!

Thanks;

Waynebh


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Mechanical Bits
Post 19 Jun 2008, 01:10 • #7 
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Quote:
Under what circumstances do you use one or the other?
I use the grease on drag gears and latch grooves

I use the lube (light oil) on pawl stanchions, spindles/bushings and handle spindles, also on tensioning blocks and threads.

Image

another place I might use the grease is to help absorb freeplay on a spindle or endplay by using it just beneath the spool bushing at the base of the spindle.


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Mechanical Bits
Post 01 Jul 2008, 06:13 • #8 
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Bud wrote:
I just received a nice little Ogden Smith with what appears to be a silk line. Any suggestions as to how to loosen the Spindle screw? It is so tight that I am afraid of tearing up the brass screw. I would like to take it apart and clean and lube it.

Image

Bud wrote:
Got it! I put it in the freezer for a half hour ... worked like a charm.



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Mechanical Bits
Post 19 Aug 2008, 10:09 • #9 
Master Guide
Joined: 01/12/08
Posts: 353
Location: US-TX
Those are beutifull reels but ... it'd be hit and miss on me finding one that was priced to my pocket ... But, Bull it was a good read and info for reels that there is very little known about.

Ray ...


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Mechanical Bits
Post 04 Sep 2008, 02:22 • #10 
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I don't know why the guy did this. I bought a Beaudex frame and spool assuming replacing the latch assembly would be no problem - I have the parts.
Here's what it's supposed to look like
Image

the guy had gouged out the latch bar boss, and had gouged out the wall of the assembly boss between the arrows
Image
Of course, even if you pinned the latch bar, taking the spool off, the latch would close so far that it couldn't retain the spring.
I drilled and added a pin for the new latch boss, and put a drop of JB weld to build a new wall, then filed the cured drop to fit the latch cover
Image
I ended up having to drill and add one more pin to make a better stop for the latch bar
It came out great - works like a champ
Image

good ol' JB Weld ...


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Mechanical Bits
Post 24 Oct 2008, 03:37 • #11 
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BH Spey wrote:
I found a link to a japanese site containing the basic info on the conversion: http://www.amago.jp.lv/b- ... t/favorite_medalist2.html but found after playing with it a while that the only way to make it work properly was to add about a 15 degree upturn to the last 3/8" of the rebent spring depicted in the photos on the above site. You need to reset the pin limiting the pawl rotation so that it is between the two points on the pawl (opposite the cut off point). After retempering the spring following Bulldog's instructions in the tuning thread above it works like a dream!
I believe in the Japanese translation, where he talks about lowering the pin, he means to file away the pin, which limits the rotation of the pawl - this then lets you try the pawl in several positions to find the one that works best in LHW.

http://www.hi-ho.ne.jp/amago/b-streams/. .. list2.html


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Mechanical Bits
Post 31 Oct 2008, 09:04 • #12 
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topic comes up all the time, (former) sticky over on Clark's board
http://classicflyrodforum.com/forum/vie. .. 44&p=49886

discussing how to tune pawl springs

Guys, don't bend on vintage Hardy or Dingley springs - find some new springs that fit and bend those ...


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Mechanical Bits
Post 02 Jan 2009, 05:00 • #13 
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corlay wrote:
Hi All.

I've got a 1495AK here, that I need to clean-up,
and re-lubricate.

I've got the approach down for basic click/pawl reels,
but the innards of a medalist aren't quite as easy to decipher,
with regard to what to lubricate, and what parts get grease, and which get oil?

Judging by the inside of a new Medalist I have,
the Manufacturer's solution is to liberally slather *everything* in grease.
I'd like to be a bit more surgical if possible.
Can anyone offer advice?
Before you go there, make sure you inspect your reel closely, understand this drawing, and the location and function of each of the springs.
Image
a little oil on on the spindle, on the brass ratchet bearing, on the tensioning block screw threads, in the pawl on the back of the spool and on the handle spindle.
A touch of grease on the latch groove at the end of the spindle and a touch in the ratchet grooves

Image


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Mechanical Bits
Post 24 Jan 2009, 06:00 • #14 
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I had my Godfrey Westminster apart this morning, and was amazed how much dirt this reel had accumulated with moderate use.
So I decided to link to this bit of wisdom from Shoeless Joe
http://clarksclassicflyro ... rdy-reel-lubrication.html


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Mechanical Bits
Post 05 Mar 2009, 13:23 • #15 
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Bill's parts are really useful.
Here is a Meisselbach Featherlight 260, patent 1895, and probably 100+ years old, whose wooden handle had rotted away.
I was able to remove the handle spindle, which was screwed into the spool then staked - sorry I didn't take a before photo.
I tightened to turn in in the screw, filed off the stake, then backed it out - so no cutting or permanent alteration.
I used one of Bill's Swirl handles, drilled it out a little, shortened it a little on the bottom by progressively sanding it.
It works perfectly. It feels good, and spins like a top.
I like it. It's as close to the original black as I could easily do.
Because I was able to turn the handle screw in and out, it can be replaced it with a wood handle sometime, but this handle is great, IMO, and will never give a moment's worry. Wood will eventually swell, bind, and back the handle screw out of the spool.

Image Image Image Image Image Image
this is the beauty of these reels - the screw that holds the horseshoe spring in place. Loosen it, push it to one side, re-tighten it, and it's perfectly tuned in LHW.
Image Image


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Mechanical Bits
Post 30 Apr 2009, 03:39 • #16 
Sport
Joined: 03/30/09
Posts: 54
Location: US-OR
I mentioned this in another thread but thought it would be appropriate here with pictures to show someone's ingenuity ... a little mechanical bit.

The little knob on the end of the spindle creating the latch groove is not a listed separate part so I guess someone lost the knob and replaced it with this ordinary wood screw. This actually is working quite well!

Image

Image


Last edited by dman on 30 Apr 2009, 03:45, edited 1 time in total.

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Mechanical Bits
Post 13 Sep 2009, 10:37 • #17 
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nowindknots wrote:
I have come upon an Eagle Claw signature reel. It is 3 3/4 inches across, has selectable LHW-RHW with anti-reverse, and a drag system built into the spool. This is a ruggedly built reel. The problem is the toothed gear that the selectable clicker engages is loose on the shaft and free spins.

I did a search and found one mention of a similar problem on a different reel, but no fixes. Any suggestions?

Jim

Pics:

Image

Image
I use a jeweler's peening hammer to spread the bushing agains the ID of the drag gear.
Had success on many reels - this is a problem that shows up on prewar Youngs occasionally.

Image
nowindknots wrote:
I figured it for a compression fit, thanks for the verification. I would hate to screw up a vintage reel.

Not surprisingly, I did not have a jeweler's peen in my bag of goodies. I did have a quick taper center punch that fit nicely. A good smack, and all is well with no side effects.

Thanks!
that works too


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Mechanical Bits
Post 27 Jan 2010, 11:46 • #18 
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though I would show you some of what I go through sometimes to fit a foot to a reel.
A reel with a badly bent, riveted foot. Drilled it out and tapped for 5-40 screw
But, the cheese-head screws have huge heads.
So I have to file them down to fit in the countersink on the Pfoot, all the while maintaining a slot in the head using a slot file
Image

here's how much I had to remove
Image
you can see my new slot is 100% below the bottom of the slot on the original cheese head

and the comparative result
Image


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Mechanical Bits
Post 29 Jan 2010, 13:00 • #19 
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oops, he wanted brass.

OK, here's the final result

Image Image


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Mechanical Bits
Post 29 Jan 2010, 13:17 • #20 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 05/30/07
Posts: 2311
Location: Arlington, TX
Ron,
Cool-that's neat fix. What reel /brand is that?

Les


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Mechanical Bits
Post 29 Jan 2010, 13:30 • #21 
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Aguila - I believe it's Canadian-made, bit it sure is Young-like.


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Mechanical Bits
Post 06 Mar 2010, 18:55 • #22 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/29/06
Posts: 4425
Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon
CMR 56 in black, a lovely reel. The spindle wobbles sufficiently to bother me. In fact it really bus me. There is no exterior adjustment (Young had it right). I have read thru this part of the forum and there are hints but nothing tht really answers my question. I want to tighten the spindle so I need to know how it is threaded and any other tips that will help me repair the reel.


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Mechanical Bits
Post 10 Aug 2010, 06:14 • #23 
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Bill Archuleta is the NA rep for Marryat. His service work on these reels is excellent.
I sent mine to him.


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Mechanical Bits
Post 10 Aug 2010, 06:15 • #24 
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WW wrote:
Every now and then someone asks about using monofilament as backing. The short answer is no! All that stretchy mono puts a load on the spool that most fly reels are not designed to take.

Below is an example of what can happen when you use mono for backing.

Image

As you can see, the spool has been sprung. This was a relatively cheap reel so I thought I would experiment on it and see if it could be fixed. The problem was to apply even and equal pressure in the opposite direction of the force that had been applied by the mono. fooling around in the shop I came up with an idea.

Image

It seems to have worked for this reel. Not saying it would for all of them though ...

Image


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Mechanical Bits
Post 20 Sep 2010, 08:44 • #25 
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
here's the difference between a cheap tapered and good hollow-ground screwdriver
Image
1 - hollow-ground screwdriver blade
2, 3 - cheap tapered screwdriver
4 - cheap tapered screwdriver at work
5 - damage produced by cheap tapered screwdrier
6 - hollow-ground driver at work


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