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Post 06 Sep 2013, 22:47 • #26 
New Member
Joined: 09/06/13
Posts: 2
Location: US-NJ
Pete,

Thanks so much! I have no idea why Google could not come up with this! I started with Medalists. A while back my brother left my tackle box on the ground when we were headed to a new campsite ... gone when I returned. I replaced the spinning stuff and a 1492 with 2 spare spools. I was lucky I had the vest in the car ... Now I replaced a load of stuff off Ebay.

I am buying some "better" rods ... I have a few I made from Kennedy blanks as well as 1 Daiwa and gift from a friend. Now that my salary jumped I will get back to upgrading. Tuning up my reels is a big step.

If any one needs a couple of Medalists, I recommend Ebay in 1 week! I'll be done with my buying run then.

I am almost anxious for the snows to come. I'll start tying again and have decided I am going to try wet flies and streamers! I do dries well and found I do nymphs better than I have a right to expect ... so I will learn more now.

I am very happy that I found this sight since most of what I have will still be glass ...

Thanks again for the link!

Mark


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Post 17 Jan 2014, 21:17 • #27 
Master Guide
Joined: 05/30/13
Posts: 848
Location: Wisconsin Driftless
So I switched over my 1495 1/2 DA to LHW and now the out going click is pretty much silent ... Did I do something wrong or is this normal?


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Post 17 Jan 2014, 21:27 • #28 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 4790
Location: Washington DC Region
Hotdish,

the pawl could be overgreased (I've done that) or not reversed. When you flip over the plate, you have to rotate the pawl 180 degrees and if you grease the pawl too much, it will stick. (the spring can get bent, and a whole lot of other things too, like the pawl might have fallen out and you didn't notice it).

Whrlpool just made a post about this on a different thread.

Carl


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Post 21 Dec 2016, 20:54 • #29 
Sport
Joined: 12/17/16
Posts: 25
Location: US-CA
Every time I search 1494 AK Medalists every photo I see or reference I read states the reel foot is cast on the AK .
I have one hear I bought in the late 90's that was sitting in a Big 5 here and it has the old style chrome foot . I have a CJ and to be honest the AK as far as I know is newer both were never used and the 1494CJ was given to me by a co worker in 2003. The big difference is the AK has what look like 3 flush rivets holding the spool together and the CJ has what look like 3 deep sort of welds that I had on a mind 70' s 1495 1/2 the 1498 from the same year had 5 rivets as does the old 1495 I have. When I bought the AK at Big 5 here it had a bend in the outside frame and the spool so I got it cheap and later bought a new outer frame and spool which are just like the ones that came on the AK other than the drag knob and spool center plastic cap and knob were already turning yellow . I was able to fix the spool and the old outer frame . Pflueger must have made many changes in a very short time frame.


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Post 06 Jan 2017, 01:30 • #30 
New Member
Joined: 01/05/17
Posts: 2
Location: US-MI
Does anyone know of a "master list" of Medalist spool inter-model-compatibility? (i.e. 1495 CJ spool works with a 1495 "made in Akron" reel etc.) Many Thanks


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Post 05 Feb 2017, 22:16 • #31 
Guide
Joined: 05/19/12
Posts: 104
Location: Boise, ID
hotdish wrote:
So I switched over my 1495 1/2 DA to LHW and now the out going click is pretty much silent ... Did I do something wrong or is this normal?


Had the same problem today, on my 1495. I had the pin just a tiny bit off. Also, a bit too much hot sauce grease on the drag plate. Rotated the pin, wiped off some grease, and it clicks, though faintly. I'm okay with that, as long as it is working properly.


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Post 05 Feb 2017, 22:28 • #32 
Guide
Joined: 05/19/12
Posts: 104
Location: Boise, ID
Thanks for the great info! I followed your steps, though with hot sauce grease and lube, as well as wiping the entire reel inside and out with Boeshield. Fantastic results!

One question. The retrieve pawl pin spring (on back off spool) is MUCH stronger now, to the point it makes the spool 'float' a bit off of the drag plate. It works properly, and the pawl engages as it should, but it certainly didn't do this before. It's like the spool is sitting on a shock absorber! Is this normal?

Definitely want to get a One-P Foot drag plate, but then I need to get one for each of my Medalists..... :eek

Here are some pics.

Image

And fully loaded, with new Cortland WF8F and a whip-finish loop.
Image


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Post 07 Feb 2017, 21:10 • #33 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16274
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
try a One Pfoot drag plate, and you'll never hear quiet again
http://www.onepfoot.com/Products.php?vi ... category=1


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Post 08 Feb 2017, 17:40 • #34 
Guide
Joined: 05/19/12
Posts: 104
Location: Boise, ID
$32.00, OUCH! That's more than I paid for my last 4 reels combined (1494, 1495 shown above, martin 60 tuna can and medalist knockoff)!!!!! But yes, I'll be doing it for at least a couple of my reels.


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Post 08 Feb 2017, 18:47 • #35 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 05/19/14
Posts: 3355
Location: USA - Illinois
The best use for these drag plates is you can get a true LHW plate vs. just turning the Medalist (later models), but all of them are top quality with lots of indents and a nice loud but smooth sound. When you order, it is LHW or RHW specific.


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Post 09 Feb 2017, 06:45 • #36 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16274
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I think he's doing the math wrong, anyway
Image Image


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Post 09 Feb 2017, 07:57 • #37 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 07/22/11
Posts: 1608
Location: US-TX
Nice medalist BDog. Anyone know if Pfoot mods the new medalist? Old medalist look with hardy drag system.


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Post 09 Feb 2017, 19:01 • #38 
Guide
Joined: 05/19/12
Posts: 104
Location: Boise, ID
bulldog1935 wrote:
I think he's doing the math wrong, anyway
Image Image

Yes, VERY nice reels, Bulldog! And if you were referring to my math, no. I picked up the 1495 (pictured above) for $15.00, a 1494 1/2 in much better condition, but a CJ for $10.00 from a guy on CL. He threw in the Martin 60 and Medalist knockoff for free!!! ;) $25.00 for 4 reels. I'm diligent....I check craigslist pretty much every day, but missed out on 3 minty Fenwicks that went collectively for less than $60.00!!! :( :( :( :( :( They were listed under an Estate Sale auction site, not showing under fishing. I now search by specific name, as well as the words 'fly', 'reel' and 'fishing', and find a lot more stuff that way, especially from people who don't know what they have.

Those are gorgeous reels, but then, what else would we expect from your collection? I'm just kidding about the price, as I will be doing it, but in stages.....my medalist collection is growing, so replacing them all isn't feasible for me. Regardless, I don't think my 'show' reels need pfoot drag plates; just the ones I fish!


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Post 09 Feb 2017, 22:07 • #39 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16274
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I paid $15 for the May 1942 Gem. It was NIB, except the handle grasp plastic had decomposed.
So I put a One Pfoot handle and Classic One Pfoot foot on it. The fact that I paid $15 for the reel was never part of the equation.


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Post 09 Feb 2017, 23:42 • #40 
Guide
Joined: 05/19/12
Posts: 104
Location: Boise, ID
I never said the price of the reel was part of the equation, simply that I can't afford to buy new drag plates for all of the medalist reels I own. Not at one time, anyway, and I won't be buying them for reels I won't be fishing, regardless, as there is no point in it. If they sit on my shelf and look pretty, it really doesn't matter to me whether they are left hand or right hand retrieve, nor how loudly or strongly they click.

I've known about pfoot for several years, and I know they have a great reputation for making upgrades for Medalists. Would I like a fully blinged Medalist? Yes. Is it necessary? Absolutely not. Is it worth the money to do it? Yes, if that's what you want.

The fact is, I like them just the quirky way they are, but I'm an old VW Bus owner (call it a van, I dare you!), so I like quirky. It's in my blood.


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Post 10 Feb 2017, 01:49 • #41 
Master Guide
Joined: 12/23/15
Posts: 653
Location: Texas bound
I got a new to me 1498 in yesterday - I knew it had corrosion from the eBay listing, but it didn't quite do justice to the level of corrosion. The mechanical function of the reel is fine - the handles were bent on both spools, but I was able to correct those with a little gentle pressure. Spools looked as true as any other medalist I've had. Corrosion was pretty gnarly on one spool, and on the reel frame, especially under the line guard. The reel came to me setup for RHW, so I flipped the drag plate over and made it LHW and respooled the lines that came with the reels - I think I got a bargain because I wound up with the reel, spare spool, and what appears to be a very good condition Airflo sink tip WF#8 with like-new backing, plus what looks like a Cortland full sinker on the spare spool.

I cleaned the reel the best I could, and relubed it. Eventually I think I'm going to bead blast the whole thing, and refinish it. Probably going to go with a polycoat or cerakote type finish - I don't think anodizing is going to be in my budget. It's not an American made reel, so I'm not going to feel bad about doing a painted on finish. I may not even go with the traditional black & silver color scheme - won't wind up deciding that until it's time. I think burnt bronze with black highlights would be cool - maybe burnt bronze spool with black frame. Or some gray tone. Who knows at this point.

I do intend to get counterbalances for the spools, and the LHW onePfoot drag plate. Not sure if I am going to do the latch covers or not - I love the way the onePfoot latch cover looks but I'm not sure if I want to drop the coin for that kind of bling just yet.

Image


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Post 10 Feb 2017, 21:34 • #42 
Guide
Joined: 05/19/12
Posts: 104
Location: Boise, ID
For what it's worth, I was going the same route as you, but was actually thinking about doing DIY anodizing. With my 1495, I simply followed the cleaning and lubing steps above, as well as provided by Bulldog. I bought some 'Hot Sauce' lube and grease, as well as Boeshield and followed directions.

Stoked with the reel. Put an 8wt cortland on it, and my ff-80 came alive!

Good luck, brother! I freakin' love my medalists.


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Post 08 Jan 2020, 17:17 • #43 
Guide
Joined: 01/03/14
Posts: 222
Location: boston area
Nice post. good info. One other thing , I know most of you know this but I say it anyway. When I got my first one ,I went from righty to lefty and did it well . no problem, but when I got to the pond I found out that I had to reverse the direction of the line also. ( unspool it and reverse it ) hope this helps someone. ccb.


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Post 18 Jun 2020, 16:16 • #44 
Sport
Joined: 06/19/14
Posts: 64
Location: Columbia, MO
Resurrecting this thread.
I just acquired a 1494 made in Akron, OH. I tried to convert it to LHR, but the drag plate does not have a recessed rim on the reverse side, so the brass plate won't fit flush. If I reverse the brass plate, the screws aren't recessed. What do I need to convert this reel or do I need to learn to love a RHR?

Thanks,
steve


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Post 18 Jun 2020, 16:55 • #45 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16274
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
well no, you didn't resurrect this thread, it's a sticky.
Medalists made after 1963 came with a reversible ratchet plate, so now you know yours was made before.
You can buy a OnePfoot reversible ratchet plate.
For a time when they weren't available because of Bill F. health hiatus, I used to buy the part from the Medalist AK - might still be able to get those through someone like Mike's reel repair. The graphite-filled ratchet plates on the -AK are better than the nylon plates on the -DA


Last edited by bulldog1935 on 18 Jun 2020, 18:27, edited 1 time in total.

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Post 18 Jun 2020, 17:50 • #46 
Sport
Joined: 06/19/14
Posts: 64
Location: Columbia, MO
bulldog1935 wrote:
well no, you didn't resurrect this thread, it's a sticky.
Medalists made after 1963 came with a reversible latch plate, so now you know yours was made before.
You can buy a OnePfoot reversible ratchet plate.
For a time when they weren't available because of Bill F. health hiatus, I used to buy the part from the Medalist AK - might still be able to get those through someone like Mike's reel repair. The graphite-filled ratchet plates on the -AK are better than the nylon plates on the -DA


Thanks, Bulldog. I'll try those resources.

steve


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Post 18 Jun 2020, 20:01 • #47 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 1626
Location: South of Joplin
The One-Pfoot links above won't work as he has kinda abandoned the site- Dan Hill, Erie, PA (can't post email or phone#)

Robert Selb, at Classic Fly Fisherman also has a line of aftermarket Medalist parts, M_Parts
http://www.classicflyfisherman.com/M_PARTS.html

There are usually some Medalist parts on eBay as one or more vendors apparently part out working reels.


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Post 19 Jun 2020, 07:14 • #48 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 05/19/14
Posts: 3355
Location: USA - Illinois
Dan told me he had retired but running the business part time, but Bob is great to deal with also.


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Post 19 Jun 2020, 09:01 • #49 
Sport
Joined: 06/19/14
Posts: 64
Location: Columbia, MO
Thanks for all the responses.

steve


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