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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 16 May 2015, 16:36 • #101 
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Joined: 05/27/14
Posts: 6
Location: US-NJ
What are the pros and cons to using WD-40 on cleaning reels?


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 16 May 2015, 17:21 • #102 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/29/06
Posts: 4425
Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Hello Martin. WD40 is useful for many things but it is not a lubricant as some believe it to be. You are correct in that it is fine for cleaning your reels, but after a good cleaning and wiping with a clean cloth, use a lubricant as recommended in previous posts. I have used it for cleaning and it does a good job for that.

Paul


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 16 May 2015, 19:41 • #103 
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Joined: 05/27/14
Posts: 6
Location: US-NJ
Paul thank you. That is precisely what I do. Thank goodness it is not harmful.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 16 Dec 2015, 15:22 • #104 
Guide
Joined: 10/31/10
Posts: 226
Location: US-MI
Ron,
I have used mineral spirits for 30+ yrs to clean oil and grease off tools and tar off cars. I see you mentioned using it above. Is there a downside? I just received a Beaudex that needs cleaning on the inside and the old grease removed and was thinking of using it for that. Thanks.
Doug


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 16 Dec 2015, 17:03 • #105 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16284
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I honestly can't think of a downside - it's the carrier and active cleaning ingredient for Boeshield.
The advantage of Boeshield is the wax and corrosion inhibitors that are left behind.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 06 Jan 2016, 17:04 • #106 
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Joined: 09/30/13
Posts: 6
Location: US-PA
Greetings,
Very, very informative thread. I just wanted to make sure that following the initial steps in the first post will work on my Hardy Golden Featherweight. I didn't know if there may be an exception for this reel.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 06 Jan 2016, 17:50 • #107 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16284
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I would try cleaning first with Boeshield.
The vinegar bath is really for caked grease - the stuff can be hard as bricks.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 06 Jan 2016, 18:09 • #108 
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Joined: 09/30/13
Posts: 6
Location: US-PA
Thank you. So just one more time, clean with Boeshield, thorough rinse, Boeshield to wax and protect, and lube. I can only imagine how good its going to look with the "golden" finish.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 06 Jan 2016, 19:06 • #109 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16284
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
no need to rinse - spray boeshield and wipe. You can apply it as many times as needed.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 07 Jan 2016, 13:14 • #110 
Guide
Joined: 10/31/10
Posts: 226
Location: US-MI
Per Bulldog's recommendation I just used Boeshield to clean out a 60 year old Beaudex, then oiled and greased with Hot Sauce. That reel is now running as smooth as the day when it was made.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 17 Jan 2016, 19:36 • #111 
Administrator
Joined: 07/17/06
Posts: 5576
Location: South Carolina
Well, middlemac's Milward Flymaster Junior ended up in my mailbox (Thanks, Kevin) and I took a few minutes this afternoon giving it the "Bulldog Treatment". Having this post pinned to the top of the page made it easy to find for reference.

Image


Image


Image


This was an easy clean and polish. I flipped the pawl and it's wonderful in RHW. Now it's time to get it on the water.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 30 Jan 2016, 11:57 • #112 
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Joined: 08/22/14
Posts: 187
Location: US-IL
I wanted to make sure I was reading this post correctly... Is it ok to use a 3 in 1 oil to lube the reel? My hot sauce did not come in yet. I just want to make sure it's ok.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 30 Jan 2016, 12:16 • #113 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/29/06
Posts: 4425
Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon
^ 3 in 1 will work fine. Use sparingly as needed and wipe off the excess. I recently bought some Birchwood Casey gun oil which supposedly does not get gummy so I will try it on some of my reels. Good fishing to you. :)


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 30 Jan 2016, 12:25 • #114 
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Joined: 08/22/14
Posts: 187
Location: US-IL
Thanks!


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 26 Feb 2016, 08:28 • #115 
New Member
Joined: 02/25/16
Posts: 2
Location: CA-NS
Hey Bulldog: I have an old J W Young fly reel.The it is a single pawl reel and the pawl spring is getting weak (not enough drag on the reel).The reel has no way to tighten the drag.Is there a way to tweak the pawl spring,so the reel has more drag.I was told the reel is almost 100 yrs old.Would you be able to make me a spring,if I sent you the old spring?


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 26 Feb 2016, 08:37 • #116 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16284
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I have a long essay on pawl springs on Mechanical Bits thread, p2. But I'm not sure it contains this simple bit:
Assuming this is a Pridex, take the spring out, simply spread it a little, install for trial and error test, and when you like it, bake the spring in the oven at 350F for 15 min to set-temper it. (the time is not specific, just long enough to soak the temperature)
if perchance the spring breaks on you (unlikely), then we can talk about a part

If it's a Condex, the springs are a booger to both remove and re-install. I can drill out the Condex stanchion rivet and reinstall it with a Pridex screw stanchion making it as easy to exchange the spring as a Beaudex or Pridex. If it is a Condex, send me a pm and we can talk about part or service.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 26 Feb 2016, 11:53 • #117 
New Member
Joined: 02/25/16
Posts: 2
Location: CA-NS
Thanks Bulldog.I will try doing what you told me.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 07 Mar 2016, 18:08 • #118 
Guide
Joined: 10/24/14
Posts: 181
Location: US-CA
What about using Coca Cola/coke? I heard it was good to clean hard grease on the stove, home appliances, and other rusty things.
or what about using baking soda?


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 07 Mar 2016, 18:10 • #119 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/29/06
Posts: 4425
Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon
^ try it and see what happens to the finish. Consider that cola is acidic.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 07 Mar 2016, 18:49 • #120 
Guide
Joined: 10/24/14
Posts: 181
Location: US-CA
I shall and I am still getting the Beoshield T-9.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 16 Apr 2016, 18:56 • #121 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/05/11
Posts: 702
Location: US-FL
I also use Boeshield. I haven't used Zebco Hotsauce products. I've been using Corrosion Block grease and oil. I been pretty good so far. It's doing the trick for my salt water fly reel.

Ultra


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 17 Dec 2016, 22:21 • #122 
Sport
Joined: 12/17/16
Posts: 25
Location: US-CA
I am new here today. I was looking at photo's of Pflueger Medalist fly reels and found this forum.
I have owned quite a few early 70's Medalists 1495, 14951/2 and 1498. I bought these in FL. Also owned many Martins #65 #67 and the MG7 and their multi gear with the drag knob forget the model # . Also the one they made for Orvis years ago with the rim drag .

My all time favorite has always been the Medalist even though I had a few Hardy marquis and others that I bought year ago from a local fly shop here. I sold and traded some I really wish I hadn't which is another story.

I have a question since this topic is about cleaning reels . Right now I have one 1495 from the early 70's and two 1494's which are the first of these I've owned one the box states MIC the other in Japan . What happened is this and my question. I left the fly lines on all the reels I have and didn't know and still don't what leached out of the fly line on my 1495 . It softened the finish a bit on the frame and almost all on the spool . I do have a new spare spool I never used . I took the frame apart and cleaned the soft finish off with rubbing alcohol then washing it down with dawn dish soap using a fine bristle paint brush then rinsed well in cold water and all I had to touch up the paint was water based semi flat black model train paint , let it dry first then put the frame together . The spool is really bad , the finish everywhere is soft and tacky . I want to restore the frames finish just where it came loose , it has finish wear yet wear I can handle. The Badger model flex paint I used to touch it up seems easy to remove it's really for plastic so I need to find a like paint and use one of my air brushes to fix that and hopefully the spool.

What can I do to restore it ? It is not something I would sell I just want to get it back to close to nice . I find it odd the old fly line on the 1494's finish was not touched by the fly line leaching , perhaps that's because they are a different finish or not so old I can' say.

The fly lines are old from the late 80's yet look fine yet something in them must leached out.

Normally I would not care yet this 1495 is my favorite reel and the only one I have that is this old . I like it's size as I do the 1494's because of the narrow spool compared to the 1/2 series.

I have other fly reels 2 of the Pflueger Gold Supreme 1 click the other disk drag. A Fly Logic and an old Daiwa adjustable click and an Eagle Claw . I don't recall their model number's off hand .

Sorry to be so long winded here. Any help at all would be appreciated.


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 01 May 2017, 12:38 • #123 
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Joined: 02/08/17
Posts: 9
Location: CA-BC
The only part I would humbly add to Bulldog's amazing guide is to be careful of the order that you utilize the brush. I found that with reels that were heavily dirty and neglected they accumulate some nasty tar colored grease. Once you touch this with the brush it should be thrown out or only used for grease. It was tempting to jump in and break up the nastiest stuff right away, but then when you brush down the rest of the reel it leaves a slight film. I would recommend starting with the least grungy spots like the reel face, and then saving the real grime for last. Alternatively you could use a second brush or something disposable like paper towel for the nasty parts.

Thanks again for the great guide Bulldog!


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 03 Jun 2017, 17:25 • #124 
Guide
Joined: 05/19/12
Posts: 104
Location: Boise, ID
I posted this on another forum, but copied and pasted it here, as I think it's pertinent here, as well. If I'm wrong, so be it.

So, I started collecting Pflueger Medalists last year, because I simply love the damned things. They are simple, and they simply work. In my mind, that makes them elegant from a working guy's view.

Sure, I have other reels (Ross, Orvis Battenkill, even a few Martins, etc.,), but day in, day out, I turn to my trusty Medalist reels for fishing. I'd love to have a Hardy, but I'd be terrified to use it. I use my fishing gear like I do my truck; hard. I don't want to think about it too much. When I want to go, it better be ready, or I'll replace it, simple as that. That's why I like Ford Explorers, too. Dime a dozen, but a cheap, reliable rig that does what I want, when I want it to. Pretty? Well I guess beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. I wouldn't trade my Explorer or my Medalists for anything, unless the deal allowed me to buy a bunch more of both.

The problem with buying old reels, or old trucks, is that they are generally in need of some upkeep, which can be a pain in the ass, but well worth it, in my opinion, as a little work can save you a ton of money.

So, I'm writing this to show you how to clean and lube an old Medalist and make it purrrrrrrr like new. Maybe better than new.

First, I want to thank Bulldog for his tutorials on the subject, as I wouldn't be collecting Medalists without learning how to properly clean and lube them. He knows far more about them than I ever will, but I simply want to give a detailed, and photo heavy tutorial on how I just 'saved' another reel.

To be perfectly honest, I have never bought a Medalist, as such. I buy a bunch of stuff that other people 'think' are valuable and they think I'm doing them a favor by taking the reels off their hands, when the reels are actually what I want to begin with. The reel I restore in this step by step is an example. Craigslist ad for fly tying stuff, with some reels thrown in. A basic Regal vise, some hackle and tying supplies (with about 60 tied flies), as well as a Ross Titanium reel. Oh, and some old medalist reels, too. $120.00. I watched that ad for 2 weeks. Finally justified it by telling myself I'd turn the Regal for $100.00, and keep everything else for $20.00. Nope. Keeping it all!

This is why I have so much crap. I never part with anything!

So, onto the tutorial. This is going to be long-winded and picture heavy, so be warned. Bulldog explains this in broad strokes, but I'm going to show all of the little, yet important things I've learned along the way. I hope it helps someone to 'save' another Medalist ;)

So, here's one of 2 1494's I just bought. I picked the worst of the 2, simply to demonstrate how incredible the changes of a little time, money, and effort can make.

Not a collectible reel, by any stretch. Still, very serviceable.
Image
And...
Image

I'm guessing pretty much 50 years of abuse, with a good does of corrosion added for spice.

As I broke it down, unaltered.
Image

What I used to do the job. I forgot to include a tooth brush and q-tips. White vinegar, Boeshield, Quantum hot sauce grease and oil.
Image

So let's break it down...
Did I mention that I'm also converting this reel to left hand wind? That's important to note, as when I reassemble the reel, it will look different than it appears here.
Image

Basically 50 years of crud and hair....
Image

Drag plate removed...
Image

Drag plate orientation, as removed from a stock, right hand wind reel. 4 detents. If you want to keep the reel right-hand wind, you will reassemble it this way. This is important, so pay attention ;)
Image

This is the other side of the drag plate. 8 Detents. You will reassemble the reel with this FACING you, only if you want to convert to LEFT HAND WIND. Otherwise, you want the 4 detents facing you. Again, this is important.
Image

Soak. 1 part White Vinegar to 4 parts warm water. Scrub everything with a tooth brush, then let it sit. Then rinse with clean water. Vinegar is an acid. Leaving it on the reel is no bueno. Rinse it and let it dry thoroughly.
Image

Dried parts.
Image

Dried parts with a light coating of Boeshield. Much better.
Image

Okay. All parts clean and dry, right? Now it's time to lube and reassemble the reel....

Light coating of reel lube, NOT grease.
Image

This is probably the most important step, because if you get it wrong, the reel will not have any drag, nor will it click, either when stripping line, or winding it. That little cap is slanted on top, not from wear, but by design. This image is for LEFT HAND WIND. If you want the reel to be right hand wind, it will face the OPPOSITE DIRECTION. So to put it simply, for LEFT HAND RETRIEVE, it will orient like this: /. For right hand, it will look like this: \. The drag plate must also orient properly to this pin, so that the detents and the pin match up like this: //, or this (for right hand) \\. Make sense?
Image

Drag plate reassembled for LEFT HAND WIND, but not lubed yet. At this point, STOP. Spin the drag plate and make sure it clicks. If it doesn't, either the pin or drag plate are not oriented properly. Fix it now, before you make more work for yourself.
Image

See the little pin on the spool? That rides in the drag plate's detents (regardless of the drag plates orientation-left or right). It needs a little lube, but not grease. Lubing this alone will change your reel, trust me.
Image

And finally, the finished product. Yes, it's still missing some finish on the back, where the corrosion was, but the corrosion itself is gone, and will not damage the reel any more. Left untreated, it would have spread. Neil Young put it best....Rust Never Sleeps. ;)
Image
Image

So. Making this tutorial, with taking photos and uploading them (yes, I actually used the free version of photobucket!) and editing this post repeatedly, took about 4 hours. Real time working on a reel, not including soak time, is about an hour.

Bulldog recommends using hollow ground screw drivers, and I agree with him. They are better and won't ding up your screw heads. Me? I'm lucky if I can find a screwdriver. The tools I used are strictly Harbor Freight stuff. It works, and I'm not spending a bunch to repair a reel that has a $30-50.00 value.

I got the Quantum Hot Sauce and Grease (Zebco products, ironically) grouped together as one deal on ebay, which saved me a bit as opposed to buying them separately. Got the Boeshield there, too. Don't skimp on this stuff. $30.00 and I'm set for life. Well worth it.

I figure I'm into this reel for about $5.00, and it's good for another 50 years.

Now, if you will excuse me, I have about 7 more reels to rehab..... :pipe


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Re: Cleaning Reels
Post 06 Jun 2017, 06:31 • #125 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 16284
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
nice work - no paint or steel wool - no bad cook in the kitchen - no bad habits.
Just TLC.


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