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Post 06 Jan 2013, 12:26 • #26 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/26/09
Posts: 1106
Location: Richmond, TX
The stacked leather handle should have a similar feel and function to the staked leather grips on Estwing hammers (versus a baseball glove analogy). Because these grips are formed with leather across its width (stacked rings) they are solid, durable, and age well.

Andrew.


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Post 07 Jan 2013, 13:25 • #27 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/02/10
Posts: 384
Location: Bay City, Michigan.
criscip wrote:
The grip is beautiful. The idea to use leather, and the design of the hook keeper, are ingenious. I am curious as to what inspired you to use leather?

For me, the feel of a broken-in baseball glove comes to my mind. It is an extension of your hand.

Does the leather grip retain the soft "cushiony" feel of a nice leather glove? Or does the glossy finish affect that?

I have always liked the feel of stacked leather handles on Marbles knives. Stacked leather has long been used on hatchets and hammers as well. Wanting to try something different for a fly rod handle, it only seemed natural to try this on for size. It worked out well, and I anticipate doing more in the future.
Mark McKellip.


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Post 28 Mar 2013, 16:54 • #28 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/02/10
Posts: 384
Location: Bay City, Michigan.
I just listed this rod in the "for sale" listings on this site at a reduced price.
Mark McKellip.
This rod has been sold.


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Post 25 May 2013, 13:56 • #29 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/02/10
Posts: 384
Location: Bay City, Michigan.
Heres another one. McFarland 8 1/2' 6 weight.
Mark. Image


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Post 27 May 2013, 10:00 • #30 
Guide
Joined: 03/05/08
Posts: 282
Location: US-MI
Great Rod, is this one for sale?


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Post 28 May 2013, 06:18 • #31 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/02/10
Posts: 384
Location: Bay City, Michigan.
It's not for sale but is being raffled off at this years Michi-Glass Gathering being held on June 23rd. Details are provided on the original posting.
Mark.


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Post 22 Jun 2013, 22:47 • #32 
Sport
Joined: 07/15/12
Posts: 85
Location: US-CA
Fantastic look to these leather handles. I see why you cannot sell complete handles without finishing them on the blank, but would you consider selling a set of punched leather disks? I am going to build a Fisher 8' 8 wt with a rich brown blank. I think a leather handle would balance it perfectly and look awesome. I'll pm you with details if you think the idea has any legs. Thanks.


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Post 10 Sep 2013, 10:54 • #33 
Sport
Joined: 09/01/12
Posts: 64
Location: US-PA
Could the rings be punched out with a larger internal diameter. Then placed over a cork underbody in order to keep the weight down?


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Post 10 Sep 2013, 18:24 • #34 
Sport
Joined: 07/15/12
Posts: 85
Location: US-CA
Hey Mark, assuming you are using a true sharp cutter, do you have an idea how much diameter has to be lost between cutout and final sanding? I'm doing a spin/fly with slip rings and don't want to upsize the cutter any more than is necessary.


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Post 13 Sep 2013, 13:58 • #35 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/02/10
Posts: 384
Location: Bay City, Michigan.
toonah wrote:
Could the rings be punched out with a larger internal diameter. Then placed over a cork underbody in order to keep the weight down?

I think that could be done, but stretching the leather disks over an existing sanded down cork handle would be kind of tough. I don't think the weight saved would be worth all the extra trouble. The punch used would have to be pretty large to do this as well.
Mark.


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Post 13 Sep 2013, 14:12 • #36 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/02/10
Posts: 384
Location: Bay City, Michigan.
Fishstix wrote:
Hey Mark, assuming you are using a true sharp cutter, do you have an idea how much diameter has to be lost between cutout and final sanding? I'm doing a spin/fly with slip rings and don't want to upsize the cutter any more than is necessary.

I try to use the smallest punch possible when doing one of these grips and typically use three sizes. One for the reel seat area, one for the reel seat/grip transition area and one for the largest part of the grip. You could get away with two sizes for the grip you are describing. It's VERY IMPORTANT that the center hole be very close to center when it is punched out. If the discs are off center when glued up, you may find that the size of disc you used may be too small when you get things evened up and smooth when sanding. I try to allow for 1/8" to sand off to finish. Any more than that it will become very tedious.
Mark.


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