nice little outfit, and that Daiwa looks pristine.. welcome !
the trick with UL these days, is the braids make it much simpler than it used to be.. handling bass etc on 4lb mono was a challenge, using 10lb braid with the same diameter as that mono, gives a lot bigger margin of error.. so UL is fun for all ;-)
the reel looks to have a roller line guide, which is good. Check that it actually rotates, otherwise the braid will most likely cut it quickly.
I have an 1973 Mitchell 308 bought new, which I retro-fitted with a newer bail arm and a roller. The roller has held up well to braid over the last decade with no signs of wear yet.
The braid is definitely harder on guides than mono but so far I haven't worn anything out.
my preferred braid in the lighter lines is Spiderwire or Sufix, but the Berkley should be fine. It's still a braid but what they call a 'fused' braid.. these lines are very confusing.
A line I tried recently in Australia in the heavier weights is
Gliss. It's not a true braid but similarly thin and strong, seemed to handle better than any braid I've tried. I'll try it once the water in CO thaws out..
Braids are very particular about knots, most mono knots will slip. I tend to use the
Palomar. Come to think of it I don't recall a single failure with this knot in braid, which is remarkable.
my experience with Daiwas of that era, is that they would wear out..
The vintage UL reels I like are:
Mitchell 308, but make sure it's one of the newer ones with a roller line guide. I wore out the old fixed tungsten line guide just fishing mono, over twenty some years.
The Orvis 50A though these tend to the pricey, $60 and up for one in fair condition.
Shakespeare 2052 preferably one of the earlier ones with an EE or EC designation. The D series has a plastic main shaft bushing which tends to crack. It's repairable but a bit of a bore to fix.