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Fabercraft rod ?
Post 04 Dec 2020, 22:50 • #1 
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Joined: 10/25/19
Posts: 13
Location: US-CA
Hello all !

Just bought a brace of old , neglected glass rods . One is a Mustang by H-I , 7 1/2 feet long . With a total of 5 guides on it , it's in the running for the most inadequate amount of guides against my Custom-Deluxe-Sportsman-branded Garcia .... though it feels a lot more lively in Hand . No line weight marked anywhere , but it feels like a 5 or 6 , I think .

The second one is a bit curious . The only decal on it says 'Fabercraft' . It's 8 feet long , has 7 guides , and feels like a 7 wt. in Hand (though I've yet to cast either ...) . It has a long (3 3/4 inches !) , plastic or glass male ferrule that goes into the tip . Not sure why , but it isn't tight enough to seat , and makes a clicking sound when the rod is wiggled . I wondered if anyone knew anything about the Fabercraft brand , and how one would go about repairing the male ferrule/adding enough 'girth' to make it seat correctly ?

Thanks for any input !

David


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 04 Dec 2020, 23:24 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 01/26/07
Posts: 1277
Location: Ada, Oklahoma
Regarding the Fabercraft rod, it would appear from your description that the rod has a spigot ferrule that is worn to the point it is not seating well in the tip section. This problem has been discussed here before, but I will recap. You can coat the spigot with epoxy and then wipe it down before the epoxy has time to cure. May require some sanding with very light sandpaper. An easier way is the one I use, in which I apply a coating of super glue gel and allow it to dry. If I have a good fit then ( with about 1/4" gap), all is good. If too tight, I then sand it very lightly. The other possible reason for the loose fit and the clicking may be due to a crack in the female ferrule. You can use the Search function at the right top of the page to locate possible fixes for this problem.

Larry


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 04 Dec 2020, 23:28 • #3 
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Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7143
Location: Holly Springs, NC
A six weight line on the H-I Mustang is a good place to start. If you like it and the ferrule is in good shape a new set of guides (and more of them) would be a good winter project.

I don't know the Fabercraft rods. This is their first forum appearance. For the ferrule, first off give it a good cleaning inside and out. Many ferrule issues are cured by cleaning. Take care to be thorough with the female ferrule. Then rub parrafin wax on the male ferrule. If the ferrule still clicks, post some photos here. Larry made good suggestions if the easy fix isn't enough.


Tom


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 05 Dec 2020, 00:06 • #4 
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Joined: 10/25/19
Posts: 13
Location: US-CA
Gentlemen , thank you very much !


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 05 Dec 2020, 11:13 • #5 
Sport
Joined: 11/12/17
Posts: 45
Location: US-CO
I’ve used permagloss and water based spar with good results to build up some ‘girth’ on ferrules as well. Just another possible option.


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 05 Dec 2020, 12:01 • #6 
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Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8172
Location: US-ME
Chicago-based fishing tackle supplier. Someone from that area may remember if they had retail shop (s), catalog sales, or were a distributor.
Probably a trade rod from a manufacturer of the time. Or perhaps they sold kits or components. Look at the rod to see if it appears to be a hobby build.

On the ferrule fit: look over the sections; they could be mismatched from different rods, resulting in a substantially loose fit because they never did fit correctly. Worn ferrules may hold together loosely or creak slightly, but a loose rattle the length of the ferrule could indicate parts from dimensionally different rods. Or the unusally long male section may be a make-do repair.

Otherwise, search "spigot ferrule" repairs here for more suggestions. I'll just add that with a not-so-special rod, sometimes installing a simple metal ferrule set is the easiest and best repair.

Photos would help someone identify the rod, any damage, and possible repair strategies.


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 05 Dec 2020, 15:53 • #7 
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Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4517
Location: US-MT
SImple to take 1/8" or more off the female (tip) section to improve fit. If you have to damage thread wrapping female, just clean up loose ends and a bit of varnish, nail cement, flytying head cement...anything will work.

Something with that long of spigot was probably poorly home done. Look it over well. Or better yet, post pictures!! We LOVE pictures


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 05 Dec 2020, 21:34 • #8 
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Joined: 10/25/19
Posts: 13
Location: US-CA
Thanks again for the helpful replies !

Both the tip and butt ferrule ends have a odd collar , probably to reinforce and reduce the chance of splits . I'll try the brushed superglue first .

An interesting rod , and I'd guess rare if this is the brand's first appearance on this board . I've been collecting old glass for the past 1 1/2 years , and the information I've learned from this board has been very enlightening ! I've fished nothing but saltwater for the past 5 years , but relocated this past Summer and I have a couple of warmwater Lakes close . I hope to get a few of these vintage Fiberglass rods out for Bass and Sunnies this coming Spring , and perhaps take a few of them to the Estuary I fish in Baja Sur next year .






Thanks again for all the help !

D.~


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 05 Dec 2020, 23:38 • #9 
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Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7143
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Your rod was retrofitted with that ferrule. The fiberglass and reelseat are late 50s/ early 60s vintage. Spigots ferrule hit the market in the early 70s. The blank was reinforced to support the spigot.

In my opinion the spigot is too long. It's also likely the spigot was installed from the thin end of the blank instead of by removing the reelseat. Does the spigot click when you hold it and wiggle the butt section?

A previous owner really liked this rod to be willing to do that much work on it.


Tom


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 06 Dec 2020, 00:06 • #10 
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Joined: 10/25/19
Posts: 13
Location: US-CA
The mystery grows .

In your opinion , how long should it be ? No clicking when I hold and wiggle it , only the flopping when assembled .

D.~


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 06 Dec 2020, 09:02 • #11 
Global Moderator
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8172
Location: US-ME
Use the search function to find various discussions of spigots and fit. One of them might apply best to what you observe in greater detail. Note that spigot ferruled rods don't "seat" to the point that the blank ends touch one another. Here's one: viewtopic.php?f=32&t=49802&p=226334&hilit=conical+mating+surfaces#p226334

That rod has been retrofit as jgestar pointed out, and with a makeshift spigot much longer than necessary with a sound blank. Short sleeves, much bulkier than necessary with a sound blank were installed to reinforce the blank ends against splitting.

Look for more detail than can be seen for sure in the very helpful pics. I think that is not just a retrofit for the sake of installing a spigot. Instead, I think it was to utilize mismatched sections, or to compensate for a damaged original tip section. That's because the outside diameter (OD) of the tip section appears to be smaller than the OD of the spigoted end of the butt section. Tubular glass blanks designed for metal, spigot, or sleeve ferrules are produced as one blank and then cut at the ferrule position. Thus, if you can visually align the blank at that cut point, the ODs will match or show continuity with the mild taper of the blank.

On that rod, it looks like an inch or two of the mid section where the ferrule once was is missing. Perhaps it was broken there or damaged in a previous repair of the metal ferrule. The repair was to cut out the damaged area and install a solid glass spigot that was never intended to be fully inserted in the tip. An inch or two was to be exposed, keeping the rod full length by replacing the damage end(s) of the rod section(s). Or a mismatched tip section was used to compensate in the same way.

That's all assuming I am eyeballing the diameters close enough. You can tell for sure by viewing them together or by measuring. My guess is that if you measure thelength of the blank section of the tip and the length of the blank section (not the spigot) of the butt, you will find the tip is about 2 inches short, this length lost from its lower end.

My eyes could be crooked and I could be wrong, but you can tell for sure by measuring.

One further guess, based on abrasions on the butt section. The rod was used--after the repair, at least--for trolling or casual bait fishing as many fly rods were, not for much fly casting. Look at the guides carefully for signs of grooving.


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 06 Dec 2020, 10:48 • #12 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4517
Location: US-MT
Lamiglas uses very short spigots, I have lami rod with 1 1/4" of male, almost too short IMO, but lami knows best :)

For the most parts a 2" spigot is about right.

That rod would be a tough one for me to fix up, lots of better options out there. If tip and butt sections same length there is hope.


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 06 Dec 2020, 11:51 • #13 
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Joined: 10/25/19
Posts: 13
Location: US-CA
Butt from seat cap to end of blank is 48 7/8 , tip from tip top to end of blank is 47 3/8 . Very slight difference in diameter between the intersecting blank ends .

I'll try trimming the spigot a bit and adding girth w/ brushed super glue . Will report back after a have a chance to cast it in a few Months .

Thanks again for all of the great input !!

D.~


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Re: Fabercraft rod ?
Post 06 Dec 2020, 12:27 • #14 
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Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 1943
Location: South of Joplin
My guess is the metal ferrule got damaged, were removed, the spigot fitted from the ferrule end and the spigot repair never fitted perfect is why it was left that long. If the "varnish" build up doesn't work, I'd consider cutting the spigot off and installing new metal ferrules.


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