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Post 03 Oct 2022, 18:49 • #1 
Guide
Joined: 06/15/20
Posts: 261
Location: Toledo, Ohio, USA.
I've been working up to try to pass the FFI casting certification. No other reasons than 1) at this stage of life I have more time to lawn cast rather than actually fish, and 2) I want to adult merit badge.

I'd like to build the rod I get certified with, and obviously would like it to be a glass rod. You need to be able to hit targets from 20 feet to 60 feet. And then you also need to cast 80 feet. As well, various types of casting techniques.

Curious what advice there is on glass tapers that can meet all the different aspects of this challenge. Progressive? Parabolic? Is 8' long enough or would it be better off with an 8'6"? Stipulations of the certification set the max rod at 9' 7wt.

I've read and learned a lot from this recent post - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=75017

But whereas that one is considering best options for distance, I'm curious about the stipulations of the overall casting challenge.

Also, curious if anyone out there is certified and what their experience was like. I do have a guy near me who is FFI certified and I've taken some lessons and he can also be my sponsor.


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Post 03 Oct 2022, 20:25 • #2 
Master Guide
Joined: 11/11/13
Posts: 782
Location: US-CA
McFarland GTX 8’6” 6 wt. would do nicely.


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Post 04 Oct 2022, 07:06 • #3 
Guide
Joined: 08/11/20
Posts: 236
Location: Ontario, Canada
My first thoughts were of the McFarland gtx too. Give Mike a shout, I’m sure he’ll have good insights for you. Good luck!


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Post 04 Oct 2022, 10:18 • #4 
Guide
Joined: 06/15/20
Posts: 261
Location: Toledo, Ohio, USA.
Thanks for the feedback so far. I should say that the biggest area I need to work on is distance. McFarland's description of the gtx on his website seems to hit the boxes of what I'm looking for. I've noticed others talk about parabolic being good for distance. Any additional thoughts on that? The intricacies of rod tapers fascinates me, and I'm just beginning to understand it all.


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Post 04 Oct 2022, 11:55 • #5 
Sport
Joined: 07/27/21
Posts: 46
Location: WV,MD,NC,SC,TN,NY but mostly PA
Nothing against the McFarland suggested , I know nothing about them.
I would think a J K Fisher in 9 ft in 9wt could easily do all you ask.


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Post 04 Oct 2022, 16:05 • #6 
Sport
Joined: 03/10/18
Posts: 87
Mebbe so, but JShenk noted that the max was 9' 7 wt.


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Post 04 Oct 2022, 17:10 • #7 
Sport
Joined: 07/27/21
Posts: 46
Location: WV,MD,NC,SC,TN,NY but mostly PA
I didn't catch that for some reason.
My bad.


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Post 06 Oct 2022, 09:15 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/24/11
Posts: 1148
Location: Belgium
Casting is mostly about casting.....

Getting back to the certification exam:

A relatively long rod with a relatively heavy line will make life easier for you. As suggested I would look at least at 8'6" and 6wt (length will be particularly helpful roll casting). I also recommend a medium fast to fast progressive action. Parabolic action is good for achieving distance with relatively little effort but requires a fair bit of practice to find accuracy if you don't have experience with this sort of taper. 80' is not a big distance and you should be able to achieve it with just about any six weight that has some backbone without much trouble. As suggested above I would talk to Mc Farland or any other rod maker who has a reputation for being a very good caster as they will be able to point you towards the ideal tool in their line up. (A good FF857 lined with a long belly six weight will fit the bill too.)

By the way, I strongly suggest you take a look at Gary Borger's three point grip:

http://www.garyborger.com/category/casting-and-line-handling/the-grip/

It gives you the necessary control to quickly adapt your cast to any rod/line combination and will get you up the learning curve much more efficiently and consistently than the more conventional thumb on top (I still often convert to thumb on top for a roll cast or off shoulder cast).

Good luck!


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Post 06 Oct 2022, 09:44 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 02/10/07
Posts: 1632
Location: The Netherlands
When I did my exams back win 1994 I just used what was available at the event :)
I thought the rod to be used was a standard 9ft #5 rod?


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Post 06 Oct 2022, 10:51 • #10 
Guide
Joined: 06/15/20
Posts: 261
Location: Toledo, Ohio, USA.
Thanks, giogio, that Gary Borger article is helpful. That's also a helpful comparison between progressive and parabolic. I only have one semi-parabolic rod anyway. I'm most familiar with progressive, so I might as well just stick with that.

ibrookje, Maybe they changed from back in the day, but I do know that they currently, allow up to a 9'7wt rod.

I've been asking around about the certification a couple different places. I got one piece of feedback that recommended using graphite because there may be a negative bias within FFI toward what they call "legacy" gear. If you show up with a bamboo or glass rod, they tend to look for mistakes that they think is inherently common with those kinds of rods. Anyone else find this to be true?


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Post 06 Oct 2022, 11:27 • #11 
Guide
Joined: 08/11/21
Posts: 210
Location: Tucson, AZ
I was certified by a great caster and friend Tom White, who recommended a FlyLogic 9' 6,7 graphite rod that he, coincidentally, designed.

Probably built by GLoomis, it was a moderate action and I would recommend something in that action and line weight to take the test. Up to 7 wts, as previously mentioned, I would use a heavier rod for the test, at least 6 wt. and 9' in length

Tom was on the Board of Governors of the FFF, has since passed and was a freakish roll caster.....I had not appreciated how much thought and technique went into roll casting before having Tom teach clinics and help so many of us in AZ


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Post 06 Oct 2022, 23:10 • #12 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5566
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
I took mine with a Flylogic FLO+ in 20degree windy weather in Edison NJ. I have liked all the Fly Logic rods I've cast (and have a stash of blanks). I never new who was involved with FlyLogic, so the comments about Tom White are very informative.

Jshenk, if you are well prepared, the rod isn't going to make the difference, but I am a firm believer of giving yourself every advantage (both in the CI test and with the fish).


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Post 25 Oct 2022, 21:01 • #13 
Guide
Joined: 03/02/14
Posts: 144
Location: US-peripatetic
Let us know when you pass!


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Post 30 Oct 2022, 15:52 • #14 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5566
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
JShenk,

I was just going back over your original post. Reread the exam. Accuracy is only out to 45ft and the distance cast is 75ft. You might have been looking at the MCI test.

My advice on rods for this still stands, relatively fast action 9' 6wt or 9' 7wt. graphite makes your life easier. Keeping loops under 4ft for every cast and avoiding tailing loops gets more difficult on long casts with glass.

I hope the studying is going well.


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Post 28 Oct 2023, 08:34 • #15 
Guide
Joined: 01/25/20
Posts: 120
Location: US-VA
JShenk, did you decide on rod yet for test or take the test? Also, what fly line did you choose?

I am looking to take test in Spring 2023 and decided on graphite 9' 7wt, with progressive taper WF7F. I am using a med fast but may switch to a faster action in near future. I think graphite does better job taking out environmental factors, like wind, than glass rods. However, I know guy that passed his CI with graphite 5wt so really best to go with what your comfortable with.

Aside from rod make sure you understand what fly line you are using and why. I heard the examiners questions are designed to gauge your overall understanding and broad knowledge of casting and gear selections.

BTW....I think there is a huge coolness factor passing the CI with a glass rod plus the big gonads to even try it. There should be a special patch given out for this.

Good luck


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Post 28 Oct 2023, 21:43 • #16 
Guide
Joined: 06/28/18
Posts: 338
Location: Bozeman, MT
When I took the exam, rods were provided and they appeared to be all the same.

Mel Krieger and Chico Fernandez we’re my test examiners, Mel just handed me a rod from a rack and started giving directions.

Make sure you are able to cast a tailing loop on command, the inability to accomplish that task got the two candidates in front of me a failing test.

Good luck and remember, we fish for fun.


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Post 29 Oct 2023, 07:03 • #17 
Guide
Joined: 01/25/20
Posts: 120
Location: US-VA
pgwulf, just being handed a rod and told to take test had to be nerve wracking. I am fine tuning rod, line and leader to give myself every advantage I can get and still nervous about it.

Being able to throw a tailing loop on command is very important. It's actually one of the first and last casts the examiners will see. It's the 3rd task on the exam and second to last (task 20 - teach an intermediate caster how to correct tailing loops). It is recommended you be able to show examples of two tails using different action than task 3.

Since tailing loops are caused by three casting actions you need to know how to throw a tail using each one, and do it slow enough it is easily recognizable. An abrupt application of power on sped up cast could be difficult for examiner to see and you need to need show ability to control tails as performed.


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Post 30 Oct 2023, 10:25 • #18 
Guide
Joined: 06/15/20
Posts: 261
Location: Toledo, Ohio, USA.
Unfortunately, life keeps getting in the way and I have not taken the test yet. I have finished the rod I want to use. I decided to go with a 9' 6wt steffen graphite. I'm still practicing and working through the various requirements. Maybe by next summer I'll be ready.


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Post 30 Oct 2023, 12:53 • #19 
Guide
Joined: 01/25/20
Posts: 120
Location: US-VA
Good luck.


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