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Post 30 May 2020, 00:13 • #1 
Sport
Joined: 08/02/07
Posts: 28
I would like to get a 7 1/2' 4 wt rod to fish soft hackle wet flies with on small streams. I thought the Orvis Superfine 7 1/2' 4 wt full flex rod might be perfect, but I am hesitating because Orvis calls it the perfect "DRY FLY" rod. So I looked at a couple of how to books on fishing with wet flies and they seem to favor medium flex. Am I wrong to look for a full flex rod? Can anyone help to set me straight, or have any other rods to recommend? Thanks


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Post 30 May 2020, 07:06 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/24/11
Posts: 1148
Location: Belgium
The traditional rod for wet fly fishing is long and medium to medium slow. That's because whether you are fishing upstream or down you want to be in contact with the flies throughout the drift - and the longer the rod the longer the drift. At the same time you want a light line so that you are more in touch with the flies.

A slower action is advantageous on two accounts - it helps cast wider loops which is beneficial when using multiple flies on droppers and it will make for a slower hook set which is an advantage when fishing downstream - set too quickly and you will pull the fly out of the fish's mouth. That said, you can compensate for a faster rod with technique.

My personal preference is for a reasonably fast recovery but medium taper rod - not tip action.

One of the best wet fly rods (but also fine with dries) I have come across is the old black Scott F 794-4 which is actually 7'10" long.

I would try looking for a 3/4wt in lengths from 7'6" to 8'6". If not slow enough for taste consider overlining to a 4wt as that's still light enough to suit.

In the orvis line up the 764 is certainly on the fast side and ideal for dries - I have never had it in hand but I think the 763, perhaps overlined with a 4wt would be better suited for soft hackles.


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Post 30 May 2020, 08:02 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8931
Location: US-ME
Slow if fishing a gang of wet flies will be the predominant use. Otherwise, not so important; a more progressive or "medium" action will be more precise for fishing single flies, and, especially in fiberglass, still good in hooking/absorbing shock on hammering strikes. It would be more versatile for other uses as well.


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Post 30 May 2020, 08:07 • #4 
Master Guide
Joined: 01/03/06
Posts: 688
Location: US-VA
Agree with above - good thoughts. Think of a James Green glass taper - slower and fuller yet very well designed tapers.... well respected. I find the NTS 7'2" is a perfect 2-3 weight for me - has that softer bamboo like action with light lines. You may like his longer HTS series - my 7'7" is a perfect, real 3 weight - sounds like what you may want to consider.
Contact him, he really knows his stuff... blanks and finished rods are out there.


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Post 30 May 2020, 09:05 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5566
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
First, I think some deciphering of terminology is worth while. Modern Orvis "full flex" rods are medium-fast rods unless you over line them. So you may be looking for a "fulflex" rod, but the action might be considered "medium" or even "medium-fast". I don't really understand it, but there is no standard for this terminology.

Whrlpool and giorgio gave you good background on what to consider. Longer is better than shorter (you will probably be roll casting in tight quarters anyway), and softer. If you want a general purpose rod, a medium action rod is better. The really slow rods can be a bit temperamental and I have to get "into the groove" when fishing them for presentation.

Now for my biased opinions.

Unless you are really fishing tiny creeks, I would go with at least 7' 9". I prefer medium action because I don't limit myself to wet fly fishing and I find the rods that are perfect for wet fly (slow) are pretty horrendous when nymphing and temperamental (as mentioned above) with dries.

Chris Barclay's original amber series are in the delicate dry fly, wet fly category. It is basically Japanese glass by an American builder. Good luck finding one of his 3 or 4wt's. But these would be perfect for smaller streams.
I have a McFarland (Tycoon tackle) rod in the for sale section (blatent plug) that would work well as a dryfly /wetfly rod that isn't too bad nymphing.
If you want to go shorter, I think Japanese glass would probably be good. My Dharma parabolic fits in that category.

I would like to try the James Green rods that NativeBrownie mentions. I have heard good things about these tapers.

There are also a few vintage rods that might work well. Cortland FR2000 8ft or 8'6" comes to mind, but it is a 6/7wt. It would be a nice rod for slightly larger streams.
The Fenwick FF84 (8'6") is the slowest of the Fenwicks and good middle ground.
For small streams, I would look at either Phillipson Royal/royal wand in 7' or maybe an FR2000 in 7'. which are effectively 5wt rods.

My favorite is an Orvis Henry's fork (early Orvis graphite) as an 8'6" 5wt. It is a good dryfly and wetfly rods and is long enough and sensitive enough for a day of indicator nymphing if that is what you need to do.

I will state what others have alluded to. The Orvis 7'6" superfine glass is not a good wetfly rod. Of course you could fish it with wets. but it is not the rod if you are buying a rod for this purpose.

Maybe Corlay can chime in. He's a dedicated wetfly and small stream angler.


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Post 30 May 2020, 09:50 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4971
Location: US-MT
I like soft, fuller flexing rods for most everything, including swinging wets. I also agree, when in doubt, go longer.

Really though, you can fish wets with a faster rod, and you can fish dries with a soft rod. But certainly, we NEED lots of rods to do different thing, so get a quiver of em. :)

Currently I have a 7.5ft, 3pc Moonlight( is that it?) 4wt, I've got a 5wt on it, and it is in the car and gettting lots of use on the cricks around, the 5wt is too much if trying to do longer casts but works great up close.
Have fun with the search.


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Post 30 May 2020, 10:36 • #7 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/05/06
Posts: 2098
Location: US-PA
Winston 8'0" 4wt (GREEN) Stalker or a Winston 8'0" 4wt Retro come immediately to mind.


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Post 30 May 2020, 15:07 • #8 
Guide
Joined: 12/31/12
Posts: 326
Location: US-MA
I would recommend a Steffen 8' 3/4wt, 3 piece rod. Many, many people would recommend this rod due to its action.


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Post 30 May 2020, 15:30 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/12/07
Posts: 1296
Location: western Massachusetts
Everyone's preference varies based upon experience and fishing style. For traditional Catskill-style wets, nymphs, and soft hackles, on smallish streams, you might consider a honey Lamiglas 7'6" e-glass. Yes, it is a good dryfly rod as well, but I enjoy it's slow action with wets too.

For larger water, I like an 8'6" #5 ********* Western s-glass. The "soft" tip gives it just the right action and play for my experience.


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Post 31 May 2020, 08:43 • #10 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 03/16/08
Posts: 3543
Location: Upstate-NY
for fishing wets on “small streams” (<200cfs), i dont think rod choice is so important. A stream of that size, you are fishing 2 flies on a leader, max. and casts are short (15’-25’). Any rod you already like should perform well enough. Fishing slow tapers IS a LOT of fun, however; and this group will never tell you NOT to get a new rod. lol

Although, fishing two wet flies on a 4 wt can be pretty cumbersome. heavier gauge and larger (#12-#8) hooks are a bit much for a 4 wt to bear, IMO.

On larger waters, longer casts, and a leader with 3 flies - the rod selection becomes a bit more important. I like 8’-9’ #5-#6 and slow-progressive or parabolic. Ideally, the rod should be able to load well on a single back cast, and unload that stored energy to redirect the forward cast and shoot a little line. No false casting. A “tippy” fast taper rod risks break-offs when the trout hits your files hard on a downstream swing, in these conditions.

my favorites currently are:
IZCH Parabolic 8’3” #5 (fiberglass)
McFarland Spruce Creek 8’0” #5 (fiberglass)
Menscer para 8’0” #5 (bamboo)
Leonard 9’0” #5 (bamboo)
FE Thomas (clone) 7’9” #5 (bamboo)
McFarland (custom) Emerger 8’9” #6 (graphite)

also the Cortland FR-2000 series is about perfect for this type of fishing and these rods wont break the bank.

I can cast an “open loop” with any rod (and visa versa), so that s more of a fishermans skill, than a rod property.


Last edited by corlay on 31 May 2020, 10:24, edited 1 time in total.

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Post 31 May 2020, 09:28 • #11 
Sport
Joined: 12/18/15
Posts: 95
Location: Annapolis, MD
I fish soft hackles 90% of the time and the three I use, in order of most favorite, FF756, Orvis Madison 7 1/2' 3 7/8 oz (bamboo) and FF806, all with a DT5F.


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Post 31 May 2020, 10:08 • #12 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 10/09/09
Posts: 2798
Location: US-NM
Dusty’s 7’ 3wt. is slow enough and would be great for small streams and also the 2 and 3 pc. Lammy’s in a 4 wt........Aurelio


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Post 31 May 2020, 12:44 • #13 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 10/20/11
Posts: 1882
Location: US-MD
Another vote for the older JamesGreen’s.... and Dusty’s 764 is right in there as well.


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Post 31 May 2020, 18:27 • #14 
Sport
Joined: 08/02/07
Posts: 28
Thanks everyone. I got some excellent advice, and learned that full flex does not necessarily mean slow. Pete


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Post 02 Jun 2020, 06:28 • #15 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19104
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
The best I've ever fished is cane, (8') Leonard Fairy Catskill No. 39, and a close second, also cane, is Heddon 8' 1-3/4f -
- the latter rod counts as a powerhouse 4/5-wt.
Image


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Post 02 Jun 2020, 10:25 • #16 
Guide
Joined: 10/23/08
Posts: 244
Location: Quincy, MA
I built an 8' 4wt McFarland Ameriglass that is very slow, and a great wet fly rod. There is a 7'6" blank available but I don't know if the taper is the same.


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Post 09 Jun 2020, 19:42 • #17 
Sport
Joined: 08/02/07
Posts: 28
I have an opportunity to try a Diamondglass 8' five weight (the original rod with black glass). Based solely on waving the rod back and forth in the back yard, it seems like it is a medium slow rod. Can anyone who's fished this rod opine on its suitability for casting a brace of soft hackle flies?
Also, while reading other posts, I noted Chris Barclay's rods keep getting good reviews for use with soft hackle flies. However the models mentioned are always out of production. Does anyone have experience with one or more of his current offerings. Thanks again. Pete


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Post 09 Jun 2020, 20:01 • #18 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5566
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
I really like the original diamondglass rods, especially the 8'6" which is on the even slower side. If you have the 8', use it. The nice thing about that rod is it is a really nice all around rod.


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Post 15 Jul 2020, 00:00 • #19 
Guide
Joined: 07/14/20
Posts: 112
I have the Orvis SFG 764, which the original poster asked about, and I've had very good experiences fishing soft hackle wets with it. I'm typically on a river that's 30 to 50 wide. Usually stick with a single fly rig for sport and nicer casting experience.


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Post 15 Jul 2020, 10:51 • #20 
Master Guide
Joined: 12/23/15
Posts: 654
Location: Texas bound
One thing that fly rods seem to suffer a deficiency from is accurate descriptions of power and action - the two are not the same.

In the conventional tackle world rods get rated for four different things:

Action - this is essentially how fast the tip recovers and to some extent how far it bends but...

Power - this has more to do with taper and how far into the butt the rod bends when loaded - you can have "fast action" and light power, you can have "medium action" and "medium power" or "slow action" with "heavy power" or more or less any combination there-of.

Then you get your line rating - this is the line strength / side intended for use with the rod. Some rods now have two ratings - one for conventional monofilament type line, the other for braided "super line"

Lastly the rod is rated for lure / weight - this is the intended window of what weight of lure or weight the rod is intended to work with.

With fly rods we get the fly line weight, and a vague description of the "action" - but those are just half of the metrics to judge a rod by. You can have a heavy power, slow action fly rod or a heavy power fast action fly rod, and you can have a fast action light power fly rod, or a fast action heavy power fly rod... I suppose you could argue that the fly line rating makes up for the "power" rating and incorporates the "line rating" of a conventional rod too - but that doesn't necessarily work great either.

If fly rod makers had a system to describe the power & action of their rods closer to that of a conventional rod, the consumer could make a more educated purchase on if they're likely to enjoy fishing / casting a rod or not. The closest thing I've seen to this is the Common Cents System, but even then, that's only a little more useful metric, and most people don't even know about it or what it means.


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Post 16 Jul 2020, 00:27 • #21 
Administrator
Joined: 01/10/06
Posts: 7823
Location: Holly Springs, NC
mmckenzie wrote:
One thing that fly rods seem to suffer a deficiency from is accurate descriptions of power and action - the two are not the same.

You are correct, there is no good, agreed upon, quantitative system for describing fly rods (or any other rod for that matter). Marketing managers don't want us to accurately compare products. They want us to believe their rod is the best based on their hyped up description. Sage doesn't sell a new rod lineup every year because their rods are described in standard, measurable terms. They convince us on a scale of 1-10 their newest rods are at least a 37!

The AFTMA line weight system was a good start, but then came graphite. When the modulus wars took off, overly stiff rods didn't load with the recommended lines. Now line companies sell overweight lines for over stiff rods.

We are left with forums like ours trying as best we can to make recommendations for each other.


Tom

I don't like the Common Cents system. It doesn't work for glass. Fishing rods are complex. Gauging a rod by how many pennies we can dangle off the tip is too simplistic.


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