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Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 10:15 • #1 
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Joined: 10/11/19
Posts: 7
Location: Jordan MN
So I recently decided to try fly fishing after having not touched a fly rod in 45 years. Based on advice from another forum I ended up purchasing a 5wt set up for trout and a 7wt for steelhead, bass and the other large fish I regularly fish for. Anyway back in the early 70s I used to fool around with my Dad's fly rod. I remember it well and thought I was pretty good at casting for a 15 year old. I never knew what happened to that old set up until I was digging through my Dads old rod tubes and tackle box a few days ago. There it was, the old set up. I will post pics below. My question is...... Is it worth getting the rig back into working order. The rod is fiberglass and very soft to the half way point down the rod. It is a 6wt. The reel is in great condition although the 45 year old line will need to be replaced, I think. I received some advice that I could just recondition the line with line conditioner. Others have advised I try out Cortland Peach. I also was directed to your forum for more specific thoughts on a glass rod.
Should I use 6wt or can I go a little lighter. Where would this rod fit in with my other rods.
Really I am just looking for your thoughts as to what I should do with it other than hang it on the wall and point to it and talk about the old times. I would love to hear any comments you may have.

I apologize for the pics being so large. Couldn't figure out how to upload without using the dreaded photobucket.

Image[/url]ImageImageImage[/url]


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 10:54 • #2 
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Joined: 08/10/05
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I'd say you're ready to go fishing - thanks for the post and photos.
We didn't get the details on your other rods, but 8' 6-wt is pretty perfect for smallies or big browns (giant GL marsh buck brookies) in big water.
That is rod is also probably fast enough to fish modern high-grain 6-wt lines perfectly.


Last edited by bulldog1935 on 12 Oct 2019, 18:10, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 11:08 • #3 
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Joined: 10/11/19
Posts: 7
Location: Jordan MN
Thanks for the reply. Other rods are a Sage Foundation 5wt and a TFO Axiom 2 7wt.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 11:34 • #4 
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Joined: 04/06/15
Posts: 1249
Location: Central Oregon
Nice mint Medalist! The retrieve can be reversed on those if you prefer. (edit: it has been reversed to left hand wind already) The AK series was made in Hong Kong, and while they are not as revered as the USA reels, I've had very good results with them. Old lines are frequently in good shape, but if they have been on a reel they have memory issues and coil and kink. There are a lot of good lines available without getting the most expensive versions. Cortland peach would be classic but glass rods are generally not too picky about the line.

I don't know the rod but people here will. Don't be surprised if you find it to be more fun to cast than the new rods.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 11:41 • #5 
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Joined: 08/10/05
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
as we've stated before, getting proficient with the glass will make you better on the graphite, because you'll have a better understanding of how the rods load.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 12:03 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 2498
Location: South of Joplin
I think those two being together dates the set up to early '80s, because of the "AK" date code and the end of South Bend about that time, I expect the rod is 'glass to 'glass ferrules?
I too have no complaint about the Hong Kong vintage Medalist functioning well. Both appear to be in 'as new' condition and should go fishing. They won't care what species you target, they will handle a range of lines and very small to moderately large flies. I'd clean that line with soap and water and stretch it to the point the memory kinks stop and use it as a starter. If buying a replacement line for all around use I like DT Peach and Wulff Triangle Taper on similar rods, but I imagine the cheaper lines work fine and they may be made by the same people for all I know. My lines were mostly bought before the cheaper lines were available.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 12:12 • #7 
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Joined: 08/10/05
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
AK is Shakespeare date code for 2001 - that's the final generation Medalist


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 12:33 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 2498
Location: South of Joplin
Bulldog, I have a couple AK that I bought in the mid '80s, until now I was sure that mark coincided with the move offshore @'80-82?

edit; should have said I think I bought in mid to late '80s, was a while ago and memory plays tricks sometimes.
I checked and they are both made in China but only one is an AK the other is a rim control RC model it was iirc bought last.


Last edited by Trev on 12 Oct 2019, 13:09, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 12:51 • #9 
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Joined: 10/11/19
Posts: 7
Location: Jordan MN
I have the line soaking in some soapy water as I type. Stretched it before I put in in to soak. I will use some Loon conditioner when it comes out. I think I will give the old line a try. After taking it off it appeared to be a WF line.

Regarding the reel.... Found this a few days ago.

"1979
Production moved overseas to China, Japan and Hong Kong, Shakespeare Medalists had the reel foot assembly crimped and the contours of the foot were coarser and less refined. The letters CJ (Japan) and AK (Hong Kong, China) appeared after the model numbers."
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/feature ... art287.php


Guess I was off by a few years but I am positive I fished this set up in the late 70's, guess it could have been 81 as I lived at home for a year at that time.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 13:37 • #10 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19076
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
the other dates cannot be correct, because Shakespeare model change date code CJ, 1983, corresponds with production move to Japan.

-DA = "double action" was also incorrect on the referenced website - DA is Shakespeare date code for 1970 model change, which also moved production from Akron to Fayetteville. Akron-made Medalists, before Shakespeare bought Pflueger, don't have a Shakespeare model change date code.
The Medalist RC series are simply a spool swap to a palming-rim spool.
If you guys want to do something difficult, let's talk about 1933-37.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 14:51 • #11 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 2498
Location: South of Joplin
I don't have any reels from that era, and apparently don't know much about the ones I do have. Yeah the RC was just a spool thing and I bought that for the frame to use with all the spare spools I had, but they did not stamp the plate on the one I have, just a sticker on the foot that said China and the RC designation on that heavy spool that I never used. As a reel collector, I'm sure you know more than I. I think the history of the prewar reels is better documented than that of the Asian era. I have to be mistaken about where i bought those reels and which kids were with me.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 15:02 • #12 
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Joined: 10/11/19
Posts: 7
Location: Jordan MN
Shows you that anything can be posted on the internet. I came looking for info and advice, at this point I have none of my own to offer. Maybe down the road. Again I thank you all for the posts. I am really having a good time learning about this old outfit.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 15:41 • #13 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/03/14
Posts: 945
Location: central AR
If you think this is fun, wait until you catch a fish on it :)


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 12 Oct 2019, 17:18 • #14 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/09/05
Posts: 2524
Location: US-CO
Your Dad had good taste, he’d be proud of your efforts to fish his old gear. Very special.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 13 Oct 2019, 09:10 • #15 
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Joined: 12/05/06
Posts: 2086
Location: US-PA
SnagFly:

Everybody should be lucky enough to have a special set-up from his or her past, maybe it's their first fly rod or first fishing rod or reel; maybe it was your dad’s, grandad’s or belonged to someone else special in your life.

If you want to smile broadly, feel like a kid again, shed a tear or two or all three, you take that rig out fishing.

Maybe you take that set-up out on a birthday, on the opening day of one fishing season or another or some other day of significance that makes you think more about that rod & reel than the fish you may catch.

You have your rod & reel, take it out fishing and relive the memories!!


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 13 Oct 2019, 10:43 • #16 
New Member
Joined: 10/11/19
Posts: 7
Location: Jordan MN
Once again, thanks for all of the replies. Here's what I will do.
I washed up the line yesterday and gave it a healthy dose of line conditioner. While doing this I inspected the line and it is smooth and after stretching and cleaning, quite supple. No damage I could see what so ever. I am going to give the old line a try and as the winter months pass look for a good deal on cortland 444 peach. The current line is a WF line. It does not have a welded loop like modern lines. Has about 4" of a clear flexible plastic coated braid with a black sleeve (not unlike electrical wire shrink wrap) which covers the glued connection.
I would go out today and do some lawn casting but it is in the mid 30's, sleet/snow, and a stiff wind here in the Twin Cities.
I really appreciate the advice to look past function and focus on the history and intrinsic value of the rod. My Dad is 87 and living in CO. He is really excited for me to pick up his old rod and get some us out of it. I hope I can send him some great pics, fish or not, when I am in the water.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 13 Oct 2019, 12:26 • #17 
Guide
Joined: 04/04/13
Posts: 197
Location: Central Maryland
SnagFly wrote:
... not unlike electrical wire shrink wrap...


Which is exactly what it is.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 14 Oct 2019, 08:41 • #18 
Guide
Joined: 09/22/14
Posts: 203
Location: Charlottesville-VA
redietz wrote:
SnagFly wrote:
... not unlike electrical wire shrink wrap...


Which is exactly what it is.


Sounds like on of the slip on braided loops that you heat shrink the end of. I tried them before but they felt hingey to me.

Bob


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 14 Oct 2019, 08:48 • #19 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19076
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
I love braided loops on floating lines, but I like welded loops better.
I use zap-splice on (freshwater) sinking lines.
Nothing lasts in the salt except a double nail knot, and I double-nail-knot a butt section and still go loop-to-loop (unless I have a welded loop).


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 14 Oct 2019, 10:08 • #20 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4966
Location: US-MT
Yup, go fishing, all good functional gear.

If you are use to to graphite the rod will really feel like it is loading with the 6wt, it's supposed to feel that way. It would probably cast a 5wt and a 7wt too, find what works best for you.

I've never been fond of loops, always nail knots for me.

I might still have some of those braided slip on things around, again, they never really turned my key.

Thanks for posting, and good luck!


Last edited by majicwrench on 14 Oct 2019, 11:24, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 14 Oct 2019, 10:23 • #21 
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Joined: 11/06/17
Posts: 2498
Location: South of Joplin
I found the braided loop connectors worked better if I discarded the shrink tube and substituted a whip-finish/rod-wrap knot there.
The braid loops work fine, but I don't really like loop connections and will cut loops off lines that come with them, nail knots just suit me better.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 14 Oct 2019, 12:31 • #22 
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Joined: 12/05/06
Posts: 2086
Location: US-PA
Sorry to get so far OT but not all braided loops are alike...

The Cortland braided loops utilize a piece of shrink tubing that is supposed to be heated and shrunk where the braid ends, while Rio braided loops have a rubber-like band that is "sized" and just slipped over the same spot and is NOT heated or shrunk. The Rio loops come in three sizes for that reason while the Cortland loops are almost "one size fits all".

The only problem I've had with both "tubing" systems is when cleaning a fly line. If you aren't careful when pulling your line through a sponge or rag, the shrink tubing or Rio band can slip from the spot where they are supposed to be and can be a pain to put back, especially the Rio band. Gluing BEFORE shrinking is an option with the Cortland heat shrink, but that doesn't work so well with the Rio band because it fits so tightly.

Another issue is how the loops are constructed. If enough material isn't pulled far enough through when the loop is fabricated, they can come undone. I've had it happen a few times but only with the Cortland loops. A little dab of Loon UV Knot Sense someplace along where the end of the loop section meets the other part of the complete loop, holds it together forever. If you put that Knot Sense somewhere along where the line meets the loop, you will also prevent the loop from pulling completely off the line which can also happen if you aggressively clean a line.

I prefer welded loops but never really had an issue using braided loops. Hinging issues can be minimized by cutting the end of the fly line on an angle and working it ALL THE WAY up into the single and double parts of the braid, right up to the bottom of the actual loop.

I used braided loops frequently in the days when Sci Angler's didn't put welded loops on both ends of a DT. If I run into that issue today, I make my own welded loops utilizing a technique I learned from Sepp Fuchs, a Dutch angler. However, I still carry some of the Rio loops with me in case of an on-stream problem.

BTW - An inexpensive flat hair iron/straightener is best and SAFEST thing I've found to shrink, shrink tubing for whatever purpose you may have to use it in conjunction with a plastic fly line. A cigarette lighter or similar direct heat source can lead to disastrous results.


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 14 Oct 2019, 13:17 • #23 
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Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19076
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
no offense, but I've had better luck on this shrink tube getting focused heat from my DuPont butane with a soft flame.
Can stand the lit lighter hands free, walk and roll the shrink tubing connection in the hot air above the small flame.
A hair drier can deliver enough wide heat on the fly line to damage the fly line coating before it shrinks the tubing.

this happens to be teflon(FEP)-coated wire cable with shrink tubing over aluminum crimp sleeves
Image


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Re: Dads Old Outfit
Post 15 Oct 2019, 09:24 • #24 
Guide
Joined: 10/19/17
Posts: 127
Location: West of the east and east of the west
I always just roll the shrink tubing on a warm bare light bulb. Seems to work fine. Nice to have your dad's gear; very special. Have fun with it!


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