start by trying to cast short and slow, and let the rod surprise you with what it delivers - you should be able to feel glass load this way.

Once you have that, work on shorter arm movements and more more haul to load the rod.
I have to think about it, because my haul is so second nature...
...ok, I'm back - was planning to try a T200 on the Harnell 645, anyway, because the longer belly of the TS250 was a bit much to feel on the 7-1/2' rod.
My haul is there every time the rod changes direction - line hand is moving away, and is coming back toward the rod at the end of the stroke unless I'm shooting - so I apply haul at the beginning of the power stroke - both arms are accelerating line at the same time.

Don't take this the wrong way, but jerk is the 2nd time derivative of velocity - acceleration is the 1st - there's no reason acceleration can't be smooth, and that's the word -
- the less hurry you're in, the more the rod works, and the farther it will cast.
If jerk is involved, one is trying to throw the line rather than let the rod load and cast it.

Just so everyone knows, the OP is figuring out the catching fish component of our sport rather well. He mentions in that post that his casting is improving too.


Tom

You're always hauling just by holding your working line, because you're moving the rod away from your line hand.
Hauling is just adding a natural motion to increase that distance, and thereby add a little bit of line speed with your line arm.
Going the other way, your reduce or modulate the power you're putting through your rod arm, and gives you a finesse on your cast distance. (you can do something similar by dropping your rod arm a bit).
Both hands are always involved in this process, so learn to use both to your advantage. The big advantage of glass is you get to learn it slowly.

Likewise, Tom, was just answering his specific question. It's less than a threadjack, since we're discussing smooth power application with a rod that rewards the smoothness.

This is excellent advice. My fishing distance casts turn over just right, but if I try to push the rod too hard or too far, I’ll get tailing loops. Slow down and enjoy that nice rod.

If you realize that you are about to throw a tailing loop move your rod hand to the left (right handed caster) as the rod unloads on the forward cast. That will (at least) prevent the line collision that you will have to untangle.

Key point made by most here are the basics...”Use the force Luke...feel the cast.”

PS: I can’t cast the entire line with any rod/line that I own..I have said before that I use my exceptional wading skill to avoid the need for my exceptional casting skill.

easrterner OP,is your casting any better with carbon?cause im finding this a mute point my casting sucks,i think if this the case joining a flyfishing club or contact a guide,maybe Hank Patterson LOL,otherwise you will get confused here,too many cooks,relax and enjoy your fishing,
crooksy

The only rod i can throw to the backing is a G/C 8'6 8/9 bass bug rod.It will shoot the entire bass bug line with a big bass popper.But i need a lot of room which is not often where i fish.A long high backcast and a big forward haul and it just sails.I have a similar carbon rod that womt do this as it wont push the bugs with the line nearly as well.Not pretty casting at all but when you drop a big weedlees bass bug in some pads on a hot summer evening 70 feet away it is a thing of beauty.

Ikaa - I am also always casting with both hands, even at very short distances. Hauling will always produce a given amount of line speed with less casting arc than no haul and this allows for a more compact and stealthy casting motion. It also eliminates slack and increases control.

Getting back to distance, I have a Fenwick 867 and I remember casting a SA 6WT extra distance long belly line and finding it a nice combination well suited to longer casts and fairly aggressive hauling. However ultimately it might be possible to cast further with a 7WT or even an 8WT while taking care not to overpower the rod - I never tried to test the comparison. Glass has "speed limits" and the optimal line speed/mass tradeoff is different to when you are using carbon fibre.

Relating to distance it's also a bit of a philosophical question. Are you going to pick a line and choose the rod with which to cast it? In this case you are likely to pick a stiffer faster rod (for example an 867 to cast a long belly 6WT). Or are you going to start with the rod and then put a line on it to maximise distance - in which case you might opt for a heavier line.

These guys give your some great advice but for me I just went with a little faster glass so I did not have to change my stroke or hand position.One time I fell in love with a 7’ 6’ 2pc. 3/4 Steffen but would get a lot of tailing loops when I got on it so I had him make me a 5

It is likely that you are asking for too much out of that rod. Perhaps a larger size, or a bit longer rod with more power is what you need.