I got a surprise when I applied the finish to the wheat colored thread wraps that contrasted so nicely with the Lamiglas Honey blank. I guess I have done my first clear wraps by accident. I'm having a difficult time cutting the thread tags without leaving a bur. When I fray the tags and burn them off with an alcohol torch, there is still a bur. Also, I'm having mixed success with the epoxy finish laying down as smooth as I would like. Sometimes it flows out really smooth other times it's less perfect than I would like. Not sure if there is an occasional air bubble getting trapped. I have been using ProKote epoxy and the brushes I am using are not extremely soft. Not sure if this is part of the problem or not. So.....

Should I try a different epoxy?
I'd love some ideas on how to get a cleaner cut of the tag ends?
Once a coat of finish is on, can anything be done to fix a bur or imperfection?
Should I use good quality brushes and if so, is it worth it to clean them rather than discard them?

What are you using to cut your tag ends?

My process is to use a double-edge razor, which I lay flat on the wrap and slide through the tag end. Make sure it's a sharp razor so that it takes no effort to cut, if you need to saw at the thread or push the razor is dull and will cause you grief. Cutting like this should prevent a burr from happening, but if something is still visible I then work it under the wrap using a burnishing tool. No flame needed.

Single edge razor blades. They are a hardware chain brand and I am curious if the sharpness is as good as a better name brand. I'll try some double edged blades.

I agree that your finish looks good. If worried about tag ends, cut the thread just before you pull the thread under the wrapped thread. Catch it with with one or two turns of thread, then cut it short enough that when pulled under the wrapped thread, no tag end comes out. As for epoxy, I use ThreadMaster lite. Seems to work for me but pretty much switching to varnish. Roy

Single edge blades are to thick and not sharp enough. They're made for cutting cardboard and scraping paint.

I think of it like this - you're more likely to hurt yourself with a dull knife than a sharp knife because you end up forcing the knife to cut rather than naturally allowing it to work. With a super-sharp double edged razor blade you can cut closer and have less chance of damaging the wrap because it cuts so smoothly.

The double edge blades are what I use as well. Feather brand from Japan. Probably others that work as well.

Here is an old tutorial on the method retiredfisher describes. I still haven't got around to restoring my pics but the workaround enables some to see them. viewtopic.php?p=97563#p97563

That's a good tip on cutting the blades, thanks. If I tried to use a double-edged blade freehand I'd be long dead from blood loss.

great idea Tom. i tried an xacto knife but switched to double edge blades because the xacto blades just didnt "cut it." right out of the package i find xacto blades dull-- or not nearly as sharp as razor blades. great tip. gonna try this.

i use the nail files from the beauty supply store...they are four-sided with very fine grit from smooth out to polish, and buff. be careful you dont go too deep or you will catch the thread. only the slightest pressure is needed to buff out surface imperfections in varnish.