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Post 28 Nov 2017, 07:52 • #1 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/10/09
Posts: 1655
Location: US-OH
Although this occurred on a graphite rod, I thought it would be of interest to all rod builders. We got a break in the weather yesterday so decided to hit the water. I was rigging up and I pulled the Winston rod sections out of the sock, laid the sections on my tailgate, and was stowing the bag away when I noticed there was something in the bottom of the sock. I emptied it out and found the reel seat hardware had broken off the bottom of the wood spacer. I was appalled to see that when the rod was built, the butt of blank was left a full inch short and the half inch that was exposed wasn’t even glued to the inside of the wood spacer which had a larger ID than the OD of the rod butt. The only thing supporting the hardware was I/16” wall thickness burl, which is inherently weak anyway. It’s a miracle it hadn’t broken off before this. Even tightening a reel on would put major stress on that thin burl. IMO, totally inexcusable and Winston is going to hear about it. I’m doing the repair myself, I don’t trust them to do it right - and I wouldn’t want to pay shipping both ways anyway. BTW, the rod hadn't been dropped or abused in any way. I was lucky that it didn't happen in the water where the hardware could have been lost. I did the repair last night by lengthening the butt of the blank 1" by epoxying in a piece of rod section. Then I filled the empty space with epoxy and pushed the hardware back in place. Before I did that I removed the plug at the other end of the blank to allow air pressure to escape, otherwise the hardware would have tried to pop back out. After glueing I replugged the end of the blank. Long story short, it's disappointing to find what I consider poor construction on what's supposed to be a high quality rod.
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Post 28 Nov 2017, 09:26 • #2 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/15/10
Posts: 590
Location: Elizabethtown & Germania, PA
That really is disappointing. What model is it? Recent or vintage?


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 09:33 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/06/15
Posts: 1249
Location: Central Oregon
I had the same thing happen to a friend with a Sage. I doubt the butt was that short. He spent the rest of the day casting a 6 wt line on my Orvis 5 wt Far & Fine, tough for a guy used to fast rods.


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 09:44 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/10/09
Posts: 1655
Location: US-OH
It's a 8'6" 5wt BIIx, about a dozen or so years old. It's fast action by glass standards but pretty moderate compared to a lot of graphite nowadays. If it had a carbon fiber reel seat or even straight grain wood, it probably wouldn't have broken but even so, I think it should have had a longer butt and more glue. So why didn't it? Could it be bragging rights for lightness? You wouldn't think so considering the weight of all that nickel silver. Saving pennies by using less glue and an inch of blank? Who knows?


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 09:45 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 02/12/16
Posts: 4106
Location: USA-CO
Wow. Talk about shattering confidence in a premium rod brand. Glad you were able to repair it.


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 10:08 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 02/26/14
Posts: 3588
Location: US-MN
Wow! Would not have expected that from Winston!


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 10:33 • #7 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 02/10/07
Posts: 1632
Location: The Netherlands
So much for excellence in rod building in a factory


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 11:20 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/10/09
Posts: 1655
Location: US-OH
ibookje wrote:
So much for excellence in rod building in a factory


I don't think Winston has a factory but instead has a relatively small facility and employees who do the rod building. Still, this seems to me to demonstrate a fundamental lack of knowledge of materials and design.


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 11:50 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 11/25/09
Posts: 2319
That’s too bad, I actually had that happen to me this year on a rod I built a while ago but it wasnt due to the butt being short. All the fittings were flush, maybe there was something wrong with the wood. There is no doubt why that happened with yours though. Also, by my standards WInston has a factory. I’ve driven by the facility a number of times and it looks to be a substantial operation.


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 11:54 • #10 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 07/05/10
Posts: 5229
Location: Mid Hudson Valley of New York
ouch! now that is a wake up call. whether a fundamental lack of understanding, or lack of pride in workmanship -- this is inexcusable! i hope you sent pictures to Winston.

yes, if the wood veneer were thicker, and grain straighter, it may have held up. but any builder worth his salt would never chance it.


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 12:14 • #11 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 01/02/12
Posts: 1861
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
I still have several Winston graphite rods, but never use them. Always considered them top of the line. Apart from the obvious poor construction, what appalls me is that the insert isn’t solid wood, but a veneer.


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 12:23 • #12 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 07/05/10
Posts: 5229
Location: Mid Hudson Valley of New York
retiredfisher1 wrote:
I still have several Winston graphite rods, but never use them. Always considered them top of the line. Apart from the obvious poor construction, what appalls me is that the insert isn’t solid wood, but a veneer.


well, i used the word "veneer" because the wood insert is 1/16" thin. if you look at tiptop's photo you'll see some sort of spongy looking stuff sandwiched between blank and wood insert. what is it? and why wasnt the insert bored closer to the blank OD? i dont get it...


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 12:31 • #13 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 03/16/08
Posts: 3543
Location: Upstate-NY
picketpin52 wrote:
well, i used the word "veneer" because the wood insert is 1/16" thin. if you look at tiptop's photo you'll see some sort of spongy looking stuff sandwiched between blank and wood insert. what is it? and why wasnt the insert bored closer to the blank OD? i dont get it...


yuck. even a stock Struble insert from that era was actually "wood" for the entire thickness.
Seems like fitting a 1/16" veneer to the "substrate" that makes up the difference between ID of veneer and OD of blank,
is way more trouble that it's worth. Definitely a head-scratcher, for sure.


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 12:48 • #14 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/10/09
Posts: 1655
Location: US-OH
I just got off the phone with Winston. The fellow I talked to was well aware of the issue and blamed it on "bad maple burl inserts" that were either incorrectly stabilized or just naturally too weak. He said the short blank butt was on purpose "because they add fighting butts to some of their rods". I doubt they put any fighting butts on 8'6" BIIx trout rods but even if they did, how hard is it to whack off an inch or two? The lack of glue between blank and the insert is also on purpose, they build all their rods this way. It certainly would make assembly and repair easier. They still offer burl on some of their rods but he insisted the ones they use now are strong enough. IMO, if they're going to offer burl, the construction method should be altered to add additional strength. To Winston's credit, he offered to waive the standard $75 repair charge as well as the materials charge for an all new reel seat if I sent them the rod. I already did the repair so I'm good with it.

picketpin52 - You can see a tape spacer between the blank and the insert right where it broke, which is pretty normal procedure for a production rod. But there was nothing between the last 1/2" of the butt and the bored out spacer. The "spongy stuff" isn't really spongy, it's just the burl wood that fractured. It doesn't look like wood because there is no directional grain.


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 13:09 • #15 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 07/05/10
Posts: 5229
Location: Mid Hudson Valley of New York
Tom, thanks for clearing that up. take some comfort knowing they would have repaired it...


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Post 28 Nov 2017, 16:18 • #16 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/12/07
Posts: 1296
Location: western Massachusetts
How many of those rods do they build; sooner or later Murphy's Law is bound to kick-in. Nothing runs forever, and they offered to fix it. And they offered cost concessions. That sounds like a top-notch company to me.


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Post 29 Nov 2017, 11:46 • #17 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8933
Location: US-ME
Well, good outcome. I don't see a thing wrong with the construction. The problem is the material, burl wood, which is chosen for appearance, not structural integrity. If someone wants burl wood, unpredictable failure because of the nature of the material is the risk taken. A rod built identically with even a straight-grained, dense wood insert, would not fail from comparable impact or moisture damage, to name two likely causes. I guess an additional shim would help restrain the reel seat from fore and aft force of overtightening, but the wood didn't break from a mounted and in use reel's weight, which would be forward of the ring. The glue joint is ample to affix the hardware. The burl could still break up underneath; it just wouldn't be as evident.


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Post 29 Nov 2017, 13:39 • #18 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/10/09
Posts: 1655
Location: US-OH
I would guess that 99% of those who buy a rod (any brand) with a burl insert have no clue that it will be any weaker than any other type of reel seat. So I believe it should fall to the manufacturer to insure that adjustment is made in the building process to compensate for its lack of strength. And there are ways to do that that don't cost hardly any more than their usual process. It's not my intent to bash Winston, in fact, kudos to them for admitting to the multiple failures of these seats and fully standing behind them. But knowing what I know now, if I were going to spend $800 (or whatever they cost now) on a new Winston, which I most definitely am not, I surely wouldn't choose one with a burl insert.


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Post 29 Nov 2017, 16:47 • #19 
Guide
Joined: 01/25/13
Posts: 339
Location: Avondale Az
I turn hundreds of burl wood inserts a year. While all of these are stabilized, I have never had nor heard of one single issue when properly installed resulting in a failure


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Post 29 Nov 2017, 17:30 • #20 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/02/13
Posts: 1173
Location: Milwaukee, WI
tiptop wrote:
I think it should have had a longer butt and more glue. So why didn't it? Could it be bragging rights for lightness? You wouldn't think so considering the weight of all that nickel silver. Saving pennies by using less glue and an inch of blank? Who knows?

Cost, plain and simple. By cutting them an inch short, they get more pieces out of their raw material.


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Post 29 Nov 2017, 17:58 • #21 
Master Guide
Joined: 06/27/11
Posts: 388
Location: US-OH
JoeFriday hit the nail on the head. Follow the money.


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Post 29 Nov 2017, 19:05 • #22 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/10/09
Posts: 1655
Location: US-OH
SWCR wrote:
I turn hundreds of burl wood inserts a year. While all of these are stabilized, I have never had nor heard of one single issue when properly installed resulting in a failure


"properly installed" being the key words here.


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