It is currently 20 Apr 2024, 09:32


New Topic Add Reply
Author Message
Post 18 Nov 2017, 20:58 • #1 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
So as this 2 hander obsession has progressed i have realized i have an old phillipson x86 6 wt that came to me missing about 4 inches and was retipped (paid $20 for it, the missing tip definitely makes a difference) I know this sounds like blasphemy, but i have a montague by true temper of similar weight and era that i am thinking about using to add about two to two and a half feet to to turn into a light switch rod. I am thinking i will remove the grip and sleeve the old blank into the new one. I am thinking that i can set the joint 6 inches above the new top grip, maybe make it level and wrap over it and add a guide. Ideally under this scenaro the original phillipson blank is where all the flexing happens with the new addtion constituting the butt and handle. Is this idea too radical? thoughts?


Top
  
Quote
Post 18 Nov 2017, 22:12 • #2 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5566
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
I've done it with a Tadpole build (the top two sections from one blank (spigott feruled) and the bottom section from a different blank fitted tip over butt. It's a really nice action. I would worry less about the length, and more about getting the flex profiles to match where the ferrule will be. Otherwise you will get a hinge in the rod at the ferrule.


Top
  
Quote
Post 18 Nov 2017, 22:40 • #3 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4971
Location: US-MT
I wouldn't worry much about "flex profile" just build it and have fun. Lots of rods have stiff tips and soft butts or visa versa.

oh, and PICTURES PLEASE


Top
  
Quote
Post 19 Nov 2017, 07:45 • #4 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
Got the reel seat boiled off. After seeing the diameter and testing the stiffness of the montague, i realized that it won't work. However, i do have a quarrow 5/6 wt graphite (gasp!) 3 piece with a broken ferrule whose bottom 3rd lines up perfectly with the bottom of my blank. It is no doubt stiffer than the blank above it. The plan will be to use a stent to epoxy them together and then do a long decorative wrap to cover up the foot or so of exposed graphite blank and the 10 inches of the glass where the old grip and reel seat were. The way i see it, it will move this this from a full flex profile to more of a deep low to midflex with a stiff butt.


Top
  
Quote
Post 19 Nov 2017, 10:39 • #5 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
Got the rod undressed, now i am running into glass's fatal flaw: weight. I even tried a 9 weight graphite base with a stent and i am stuck with weight causing too much flex, (i could feel the 9 weught handle flexing under the handle. I am thinking i need an 8 weight glass rod as my extension. Any ideas?


Top
  
Quote
Post 19 Nov 2017, 11:42 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/12/07
Posts: 1296
Location: western Massachusetts
For a stent under the grip, some builders use aluminum tubes of the right diameter. I have never tried it myself, so I don't know about the weight and flex profile though.


Top
  
Quote
Post 22 Nov 2017, 19:07 • #7 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
So majicwrench just got me the butt end of a heddon pal that is stiff enough and the weight weight and dimeter to work with a stent, the aeration is whether or not i should add 2.5 ft to get a 10.5 ft rod or just add 2 and get 10. I worry about the law of diminishing returns when i see that glass rods generally werent made over 9 ft. Thoughts?


Top
  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  

New Topic Add Reply



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Jump to:  
Google
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group