I've got a honey lamiglas blank and was wondering if you don't use color preservative and choose a lighter color thread than the blank, is the finished wrap just going to look like the blank color for the most part? I'd do a test wrap, but all the thread I have (3 spools) is darker than the blank.

I was thinking of using Fishhawk Goldenrod, but I am thinking that without color preservative, it would pretty much look clear.

Secondly, if you have an downlocking reel seat without a trim band, do you just butt the cork grip up against the threads of the reel seat? Does anyone sell different diameters of trim rings for reel seats?

Oops, I guess that was three questions. Thanks in advance for any help, I appreciate it!

Thanks Picketpin. Did the antique gold show up w/o cp?

Also I mistyped (corrected now), it is a downlocking seat. So no harm in placing the cork against the threads of reel seat? I still like the look a trim ring would provide. How do slightly inlet it into the grip? Thanks!

Bamboo rod builder's trick...use white silk and no CP. It's used for invisible wraps over minor repairs. Can't say how invisible white or colored nylon might be.

You can butt the reel seat against the cork without a trim ring. If the grip is not installed yet, you can dry fit the parts and use the reel seat to mark a circle on the cork. Then cut out a slight inlet so the end of the reelseat goes a little into the cork. Looks better that way and ensures that the end is sealed against water entry.

BB

I used Gudebrod, but FIshHawk or ProWrap antique gold, or old gold will do fine.

To inlet -- which is not necessary if you work the the threaded end of the seat into the cork -- use a sanding/gouging bit on a Dremel.

First, trace the outline of the seat on the end of the cork. Go slow & easy -- you only need to cut deep enough to bury 1/16" or 1/8" of the threaded end of the seat into the cork. Dry fit everything before your glue it up, to make sure your mounted seat will accept the reel foot.

Good luck.

I just use a very sharp scalpel or #11 x-acto blade (the finely pointed one) to cut the outline where I want to remove cork (exact depth is unimportant). Cutting the outline without chipping cork outside the line is the most critical and precise part. Then just chip or cut out inside the outline to about 1/16" depth, just enough to overlap the end of the reel seat slightly without any gaps. If the cutout depth is uneven or slightly deeper than you need to hide the end of the reel seat, that's ok, as the space will be filled with epoxy anyway when you assemble the parts in their final positions.

I always dry fit just before gluing just to make sure everything looks right, using pencil marks if I need them to indicate proper position.

Another tip...you didn't say if you're using a pre-made grip or building one from rings. I always build with rings and save the very best (cleanest rings with fewest inclusions) for the two ends as the ends will show. If you're cutting a recess in cork, the fewer inclusions, the easier the cutting.

BB