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Post 06 Jun 2017, 07:27 • #1 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
Hi all, so I did my first build in a class recently and built a batson rx6 4 weight. At the time i wws reaming the grip, we found there was a hard burl in there that made it take forever to get to slide on and later epoxy. After the rod was finished and I tried lawn casting, I found there to be excess space between the grip and the rod so the rod rocks within the grip. Can this be fixed by pushing epoxy in there or do i need to cut the bottom wraps off and put a new grip on it? And if so, how would be best to do it?


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Post 06 Jun 2017, 07:39 • #2 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/24/12
Posts: 456
Location: US-MI
Does the grip rock from the front or back? If it is the back, then you could try removing the reel seat and injecting epoxy into the back. If it rocks from the front, then I would replace the grip. If there is a winding check you could try removing it and see about getting some epoxy in that way.


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Post 06 Jun 2017, 09:07 • #3 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
It rocks from the front. It does have a winding check, however i am worried that that injecting epoxy might throw the grip off kilter. That being said, to replace the grip i know i am going to need to take off the guides. What would be the best way to remove the grip and the cured epoxy underneath?


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Post 06 Jun 2017, 09:11 • #4 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
In a similar vein, how does one get the reel seat off?


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Post 06 Jun 2017, 09:25 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4966
Location: US-MT
I would remove winding check first and see what can be done that way.

Remove seat by heating it to soften glue. Some folks have luck soaking it in pot of boiling water, I use more heat than that.

You can put a grip on from the butt just fine, need a bit more glue or tape, so no need to remove guides.


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Post 06 Jun 2017, 09:44 • #6 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
Ok thanks, honestly, this is a bit of a blessing in disguise as i am not a fan of this grip and dont like uplocking reel seats. So i guess the best way to heat it would be with a heat gun?


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Post 06 Jun 2017, 09:51 • #7 
Master Guide
Joined: 04/27/07
Posts: 645
Location: Missouri
Heat gun, alcohol flame


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Post 06 Jun 2017, 12:02 • #8 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
You can inject reduced epoxy with a hypodermic needle into the voids in the loose areas of the grip.
Works like a charm every time. no need to remove anything quick easy and forever.
Tight Lines And Give It "A Shot" Of Epoxy Loops
Andy M


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Post 09 Jun 2017, 07:55 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/12
Posts: 1778
Location: Dubois Pa
I agree with Andy, I have done this before

Bob


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Post 09 Jun 2017, 21:17 • #10 
Master Guide
Joined: 08/03/14
Posts: 945
Location: central AR
May I ask what you use to thin the epoxy? You never know what that be used for.


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Post 10 Jun 2017, 01:56 • #11 
Guide
Joined: 05/08/15
Posts: 115
Location: Victoria Australia
Also interested in what is recommended as a thinning agent - methylated spirits, acetone ?

Just done a little research and apparently either acetone or isopropyl alcohol are best for thinning epoxy.


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Post 10 Jun 2017, 05:38 • #12 
Master Guide
Joined: 11/28/15
Posts: 378
Location: US-NC
I have used Xylene to thin regular Flex Coat for doing wraps. I have not tried to thin other epoxies, although I now use Diamond II from Voodoo which is very thin to start with.

BB


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Post 10 Jun 2017, 12:10 • #13 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 09/18/09
Posts: 5561
Location: Relocated to the Drought Stricken West.
I've thinned 5min and 30 minute epoxy with acetone and it works, but I've been affraid to thin it down to the level that it will pass through a needle to get under the cork. I don't want is so thin that there is nothing left when the solvent evaporates.

Has anyone thinned 30minute epoxy down to a watery consistency and used it for this purpose?

I would be more tempted to use gorilla glue in a thinned form which will expand some, but I would love to hear from someone who has actually done it.


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Post 12 Jun 2017, 05:07 • #14 
Master Guide
Joined: 11/28/15
Posts: 378
Location: US-NC
If I were the OP and not happy with the grip and reelseat as he says, I would consider the rod a complete do over because there is not any real good way to install a new grip from the rear without gaps which would require tape to fill and a winding check to hide (I don't use winding checks). Tape under a reel seat is one thing, because on a fly rod the reel seat has little torque on it, unlike the grip which can torque considerably.

I also believe any gaps which can let water in between the reelseat, grip and the rod is asking for trouble down the line.

As my grandfather taught me, doing it over to make it right is good training.

BB


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Post 13 Jun 2017, 19:54 • #15 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
Thanks for the advice all, i ended up using a couple of syringes and 45 min epoxy from matt and proof fly fishing and that served to fix the problem with the grip. Now my only issue is the idiot who decided that making a 7 ft graphite tip flex 4 weight was a good idea. Lawn cast the rod with 406 dt 5 and it felt like a broomstick. The rod has no soul. My phillipsons have spoiled me.


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Post 14 Jun 2017, 04:36 • #16 
Master Guide
Joined: 05/16/10
Posts: 814
Location: South of Houston, TX
Take it fishing.
I've found I often feel quite different about a rod after fishing with it a while, rather than just lawn casting. It gives you time to adjust to the natural cadence of the rod, and while you're focusing on the fishing conditions and not concentrating on the cast the rod may begin to feel a lot better. I know I'm. Always fonder of a rod and more appreciative of what it can do after time on the water. It's your first build. I bet you'll enjoy fishing it. If not, that's what second builds are for.


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Post 14 Jun 2017, 06:18 • #17 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/12/07
Posts: 1292
Location: western Massachusetts
Remember, it is graphite, you may just need to get in sync with it.


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Post 14 Jun 2017, 07:00 • #18 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
I'm glad the grip is now trouble free and the injected epoxy solved that issue for you.
You could have used any reduced epoxy 5Min 30Min etc from your local hardware store with the same outcome.

Archfly & Coldpass have given you good advice,Those blanks were not designed by idiots.
My Lady has the RX6 6'6" 3 weight she fishes it mostly with a Cortland Peach DT 444 #5.
However the rod performs like a champ with 3-5 weight lines.

Try some different lines on the rod,take it fishing,if you still don't like it give it to someone who will.

Tight Lines And Affixed Gripped Loops
Andy M


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Post 14 Jun 2017, 07:18 • #19 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
I guess my criticism of the blank is only regarding personal preference. There is definitely a place for graphite, and I have a tfo axiom 9 ft 5 wgt rocket launcher that I love. I guess for me, those short glass creek rods are just very spiritual. Being so soft and accurate. Its just a matter of personal preference


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