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Post 04 Mar 2011, 15:32 • #1 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
I know this topic has been discussed before. I have a 5 pc rod and one of the ferrules has 3 or so hairline cracks that extend up about 1/8" or so. I love this rod and want to ensure that I don't damage the rod by fishing and extending the cracks further. I know the fix for this isn't too complicated but having never done a repair or a wrap or anything on a rod I am hesitant to do this work. It is my understanding that the best option involves removing the wraps on this ferrule and using crazy glue on the cracks and rewrapping the rod. Is this correct? Looks like I am going to be forced to figure out how to do this. Anybody want to chime in with recommendations? I am going to need some directions as I go about this job. My first question is how to match the thread color. I am going to have to purchase thread online as there are no fly shops in my area. I can post pictures tomorrow.


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Post 04 Mar 2011, 15:49 • #2 
Sport
Joined: 08/07/09
Posts: 33
Location: US-CA
DT, what kind of rod and what kind of ferrules? if it's only an 1/8th of and inch you can make a clean cut and rewrap the section. make sure the male section fits correctly as this may have been the cause of the cracks. you can purchase tip or ferrule rings from golden witch to make it stronger than just wraps alone, philipson did this on many of their glass rods.

james


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Post 04 Mar 2011, 16:04 • #3 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
It is a S-Glass Lami and has spigot ferrules. I am going to see how the repair goes on this section and I might redo them all if it goes well. This might be the answer to my hesitation to start building rods myself.


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Post 04 Mar 2011, 16:55 • #4 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4966
Location: US-MT
Lots of female spigots develops crack there. i/8 inch no biggie.  Super glue and/or re-wrap.  Lots of info on this kind of stuff in the search.  This is gonna start you on a slippery slope ...


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Post 04 Mar 2011, 23:57 • #5 
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Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Might be a good one to tiptoe into DIY repair. Best recent coverage: http://fiberglassflyrodde ... aired-saved#reply-111514


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 00:19 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 10/31/06
Posts: 1262
Location: Mid- coast Maine
When you remove the thread do it carefully and save the thread. Rewrap with that thread, it's tricky but it can be done. Even with that said the color match might not be perfect as the old color most likely faded unevenly.
RFMcD


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 03:05 • #7 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
For some reason I have it in my mind that removing the cracks altogether by cutting the blank is the best option. I am probably wrong but with a spigot ferruled blank can't this be done and it would only show a bit more of the gap?
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Post 05 Mar 2011, 05:09 • #8 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
Hope the pics tell the story ...


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 06:13 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 03/16/08
Posts: 3540
Location: Upstate-NY
Neat! I've never seen a multi-piece Lami-S before. Thanks for posting the pics.


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 06:33 • #10 
Guide
Joined: 08/05/06
Posts: 205
Location: US-CA
My experience is that you can't solve the problem by using super glue or the like. Strip the thread, trim off the cracks and rewrap with a double layer of thread. When done you may have to refit the spigot to a proper gap.


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 06:45 • #11 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4966
Location: US-MT
After seeing the pics, I think the rod is basicly junk. But I would take it off your hands and use it for the scrap.

Please send to:
Keith Meyers
36304 Hwy 2
Libby MT 59923


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 07:01 • #12 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4966
Location: US-MT
Just went out and looked at my two Lami LTD rods, both that opaque brown with hollow spigots, one rod has two, very short (1/16") cracks in the female. Other rod has one crack, almost 1/4" visable under the wraps in good light. I fish these rods hard, with big fish, and big flies. No idea how long cracks have been there. Might have to glue em up.

I would be really leary of trimming that female UNLESS there is currently almost no gap. Refitting the spigot not a beginner project. And sanding some off that hollow spigot would give me the willies.

Now the caveat ... I am no professional rod builder, I am just good at making things work, so tis good to heed all advice ...


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 10:13 • #13 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/20/07
Posts: 8920
Location: US-ME
Trimmed or left and reinforced with glue, if the ferrule is then sleeved or double wrapped, the cracks can't go anywhere because the female needs to spread a bit for them to open up and lengthen. Either way, when rewrapping or snug-fitting a sleeve, I would have the male lightly fitted into the female when doing it so as not to compress or collapse it inward. Spencer, that could be sent pretty easily to someone for a repair, but why not try it yourself. It's just a fly rod--a nice one worth keeping up. If it were mine, I would rewrap and/or sleeve all of the female ferrules as a preventive to the same thing happening at the others. This whole discussion is reminding me why I probably got the apprehension back in the day that Lami and Fenwick (which do the same thing) ferrules were relatively fragile. As I recall, Lami was one of the first to try and tout S-glass (part of the "stiffness" game that was accelerating with graphite) but I'm not sure they were very successful with the line. Maybe this is one reason. Stiffness sounded good to people in the graphite development days, but early on at least, you could translate it to "brittle" and more easily broken.


Last edited by whrlpool on 05 Mar 2011, 10:15, edited 1 time in total.

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Post 05 Mar 2011, 11:04 • #14 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
Assuming I want to cut 1/8" off this ferrule what is the best method of doing this?


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 16:27 • #15 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
This makes me glad my other S-Glass Lami was built by Leiderman, it has his ferrule ring on there, hopefully that will help it hold up better.


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 16:35 • #16 
Sport
Joined: 08/07/09
Posts: 33
Location: US-CA
just tape it off with some masking tape at the point you want to cut it, then use a fine 32 tooth hacksaw and cut slowly, then clean up your cut with a file. the lami had a long ferrule engagement so i don't think the extra gap you will have is an issue.

james


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 16:47 • #17 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
Thanks James,

I agree the it is a rather long ferrule and actually the gap is rather short right now 3/16" and that is a high estimate, I would snug it up more if it wasn't already cracked. Anybody have a guess on what color those thread wraps are, if you were trying to match the thread in the pictures where would you start they look red to my eye but I don't know what shade? If I decide to do a full re-wrap perhaps I will try something different. I like wraps done on my other Lami but that was fine silk and I doubt I should try that for a first attempt at rod wrapping. I want something that is durable and going to reinforce this ferrule as much as possible. The other question I have is the idea of double wraps. I don't know what is involved in this technique.

Thanks,

DT


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Post 05 Mar 2011, 21:40 • #18 
Master Guide
Joined: 04/15/08
Posts: 902
Location: Salisbury, England
On such an attractive and unique rod I'd be tempted to go for ferrule rings throughout and never worry about it again. Added bonus you'd only need to strip back a little thread on each female rather than re-wrap, and no need to trim back the damaged ferrule or mess with spigots. Or even fit the rings over the existing thread and smooth out the step with varnish/epoxy. There was a good thread from whirlpool on using old brass ferrules for ferrule rings. Andy M also also does repairs with fiberglass cloth/thread and resin.


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Post 06 Mar 2011, 13:26 • #19 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 12/26/09
Posts: 1106
Location: Richmond, TX
DT,

I took a look at the nickel silver band on the Golden Witch web site on-line store, which is what I am guessing you are looking at. I would think that the 1/64" size increments are the actual inner diameter of the band. (A ferrule ring or similar reinforcement at the end of the ferrule would be my perfered method for addressing the hairline cracks.)

For determining the correct size, I would (i) remove the wraps from the last 1/4" or so of the ferrule (where the ferrule ring will go), (ii) prepare the rod surface for gluing the ferrule ring (e.g. sand the end of the furrule with fine sandpaper (400 grit) to remove any finish (varnish / epoxy) from where the wraps were removed), (iii) use a micrometer to measure the diameter at the end of the ferrule (widest part), (iv) round up the measurement to the next 64th of an inch and order that size of ferrule ring (nickel silver band). A call or e-mail to Golden Witch would most likely confirm the recommended method for determining the correct size.


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Post 06 Mar 2011, 15:59 • #20 
Guide
Joined: 02/26/10
Posts: 331
Location: Lynn, Massachusetts
Spencer DT-Although Mark Leiderman is apparently taking time off from rod making, why not ask him if he is willing to do a ferule repair since you are a customer? If you are not successful in diy repair, what next? Send to keith? See if a pro can fix for you-don't risk the rod.


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Post 13 Mar 2011, 08:49 • #21 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
I removed the wraps on the offending ferrule, went easily, no problems, now what do I do to remove the ridge of epoxy that is left where the ferrule wrap ended? This looks like it is going to be the difficult part.


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Post 13 Mar 2011, 09:28 • #22 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
and 10 minutes later, it is done, used a hair dryer and a plastic knife. Sanded down the ferrule to eliminate any cracks. Looks good so far ...

Image


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Post 13 Mar 2011, 14:35 • #23 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
Here another question, I decided I am going to completely rewrap this rod, at this point this rod might well become truly my own. Gotta start somewhere I figure so I continued un-wrapping this rod and I am working on the butt section now, I noticed after removing the ferrule wraps that the it has finish on the whole section, I assume to also protect the labeling on the rod. I want to keep the original label. Is there a good way to remove the epoxy cleanly only to a certain point on the blank? Tape? I guess cleanliness doesn't matter completely as it is going to be covered by wraps anyways. The rest of the rod I can remove all the epoxy no problem. Do you use any tricks when you attempt to keep original logos/script on the rod?
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Post 14 Mar 2011, 08:38 • #24 
Master Guide
Joined: 04/15/08
Posts: 902
Location: Salisbury, England
You're a glutton for punishment to go for a total re-wrap!

Mask off the logo with a clean sharp edge, sand/scrape/strip away from that edge and plan to cover the slight step that will remain after re-finishing with a logo framing trim wrap


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Post 14 Mar 2011, 09:09 • #25 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
I have wanted to do this for a long time and figured that since I am already having to do some work I might as jump in with both feet.


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