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Post 13 Mar 2012, 12:23 • #61 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Well we are off and running on S102M Below you will see photo's of the rod with it's apparent issues.
For those of you whom are new to my pictorials I will post pictures and give a brief explanation.
I will wait for questions and or comments before I post the next installment of pictures.
So if you have any questions please feel free to ask them.
I hope everyone enjoys this and It lives up to Steve's expectations!
Tight Lines and S102M Loops
Andy M
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Last edited by The Glass Master on 16 Mar 2012, 07:11, edited 1 time in total.

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Post 13 Mar 2012, 14:55 • #62 
Master Guide
Joined: 04/15/08
Posts: 902
Location: Salisbury, England
Excellent!
My SA 11 revamp is stalled at re-wrap point


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Post 13 Mar 2012, 18:04 • #63 
Guide
Joined: 09/20/09
Posts: 319
Location: US-MN
Andy-

You have my attention. Can't wait to see this one take shape.

We are breaking the 70 degree marker here in Minnesota tomorrow. May be musky season early this year!

Doug R.


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Post 13 Mar 2012, 18:42 • #64 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
I love these posts. Andy, thank you for taking the time. This is educating the masses.


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Post 13 Mar 2012, 18:57 • #65 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Thanks fellas great to have you on board for this ride! I hope more jump on as we progress.
Let me point out a few things here as we start this site seeing tour.

In the first picture up above please see what happens to guide wraps that are finished with varnish on glass rods over time.
Notice the finish cracking and thread bunching over the loose guide feet,see the tarnish on the first guide as well that is from the water getting under the guide foot you will see more of the results from this condition in the next grouping of pictures.

In the 2nd picture you can see the same cause and effect just not as pronounced.

In the 3rd picture we have the male spigot ferrule missing we will get back to this later on as well.

In picture #4 that was suppose to show the female ferrule crack sorry for the poor picture.
One thing about me I will warn you about is that my photo skills stink, I don't have the time to take mutable pictures and photo shop and primp them so you get what I shoot the first time period.

Picks #5 = 9 all show the same poor quality thread finish with the same result of loose guides and bunched thread from the guides shifting up and down the blank during the flex.
Also look at the lengths of the factory wraps they are not uniform this was also true with Joe's system 10.
His S10 rod was a 2 tip rod and the spacing was different on both the joke was they rolled the dice to decide where they went on the blank.
The same has been true of every system rod I have ever repaired.

Picture #10 look up inside you can see the lip of the butt end of the blank up in there by 2".
This is strange the first System rod I saw this way, maybe the former owner made a fighting butt that fit up in there not sure but that's my guess.
That's actually a good thing and will work to my advantage.
This will save me some time as we are not replacing the grip or reel seat on this rod unless someone wants to make a project donation?
This rod is one of 5 rods that I am putting up for Doug, this ones his so he has to make some sacrifices and actually the originals are fine so no need to up grade them anyways.

The last picture is just a butt picture we all like pictures of butts right?

Actually I just got a new computer so I can use the bulk up load button now and this was my first stab at it.

The next bunch of photo's are going to be very reveling so I will do my best to get them up tonight.

Tight Lines and Reveling Butt Pictured Loops
Andy M


Last edited by The Glass Master on 13 Mar 2012, 20:20, edited 1 time in total.

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SYSTEM 10 THE SEQUEL
Post 13 Mar 2012, 19:54 • #66 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
For this segment I will add my comments as I post the pictures.
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In the picture above you can see what happens to the blank under guide feet when the wraps are finished with varnish that has degraded over time. take a close look see the deep abrasions left in the blank.
This condition is only seen on rods with varnish thread finish,the condition is consistent and as you will see that it is present on every guide on this rod in varying degrees.See the crack in the blank? I did my best to show it.
On the left you are seeing tarnish residue that was present on the guide feet under the wraps.
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In the next picture more of the same see the deep abrasion on the right.
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Same here see the left side.
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More of the same this ones mid tip in the high flex area.
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The next guide wrap.
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Always cut the thread on the guide foot only never on the blank un Ravel the rest of the wrap.
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In the last picture the Allen and R.E.C. upgrade guides are on the left along with the male ferrule spigot. the factory guides are on the right, the thread stripping s.
I realize this may be a shock to some of you but I see this all too often.
More with some makers than others naturally it all depends on the type of thread, tension, size of thread and most of all in my opinion the finish used.
The pictures tell the story so please lets not turn this into yet another topic about thread and finishes!
Next will be the reel seat and butt extensions when they are completed we will come back and address the blank issues.
Tight Lines and Loose Guides Abraid Blanks Loops
Andy M


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Post 14 Mar 2012, 17:59 • #67 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
When you say this result is partially due to thread tension do you mean overly tight, overly loose wraps, or either?


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Post 14 Mar 2012, 19:54 • #68 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 10/30/09
Posts: 2527
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Spencer DT wrote:
When you say this result is partially due to thread tension do you mean overly tight, overly loose wraps, or either?

I was wondering the same thing.


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Post 15 Mar 2012, 00:51 • #69 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
What happens as I see it is as the thread finish degrades it allows the thread to become loose hence the thread then looses its original tension allowing the guide to shift during the flexing of the blank.
The guide then rubs too and fro against the blank abrading the blank.

I have also seen cases where the rod guide was wrapped with to loose of thread tension to begin with then allowing the guide free movement that results in finish compromise leading to blank damage under the guide feet.

It the old days we saw lots of rods with under wraps these were not merely decorative, the under wraps purpose was to protect the blank under the guide feet.

I have also seen guide feet break off at the root of the foot, this is usually due to poor quality guides being exposed to moisture by compromised thread finish.
The moisture stays under the thread and rusts the guide foot or in the case of silk rots the silk or both.

As I have stated I really don't want this presentation to turn into another Thread and Finish Topic.
We have had so very many of those here already and they seldom solve anything, people will wrap and finish as they prefer and that's fine.

I'm just pointing out the issues with this rod and others I have encountered in the past.
I will show everyone how I deal with the problems with this rod, everyone is free to take my advise or not that's for them to decide.

I love the look of Varnish finished thread be it silk or nylon, as long as the tension is right to begin with and the wraps are maintained,over coated with additional coats of finish as a preventative measure when needed they are little trouble.
I make a few bamboo rods, I use varnish on my wraps ,in my bamboo rod care guide as well as my fiberglass and graphite rod care guides l recommend you inspect your wraps often and over coat the finish at the first sign of problems.
If this rod and all the others out there were maintained they would have few issues, the biggest problem is too few fisherman maintain there rods as is recommended.

Tight Lines and Maintain Them Loops
Andy M

PS
I spent 10 hours working making the reel seat extensions,re setting the male ferrule etc etc today.

When I am certain everyone has had a chance to ask questions or make comments on the last segment I will post the next.


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Post 15 Mar 2012, 08:41 • #70 
Guide
Joined: 09/20/09
Posts: 319
Location: US-MN
Andy-

I knew this rod was in tough shape when I bought it, but I am surprised to see how bad it really was. This is my first old rod restoration, so I wasn't sure what to expect. I had no idea rods wore like this.

The new guide set is definitely a serious upgrade. Can't wait to see the next segment and how you deal with the defects in the blank. I would have thought this rod was "totaled" due to poor maintenance by the original owner. I'm glad I sent it to you for the spa treatment.

I wanted to take a minute to let you all know how much of a pleasure it has been working with Andy. Andy put up a series of 6wts for me, my wife and my two boys (along with this System 10 rod), Andy gave mindful advice to stay within my budget and communication has been crystal clear. I have purchase two of his new rods in the past and admire his balance of artistry and practicality. We can't wait to get these rods on the water.

Doug R.


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Post 15 Mar 2012, 10:17 • #71 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Doug thanks it's always my pleasure to serve you and yours!

Doug and I went over the action plan for this rod a while back Doug was very specific about what the rods new intended use would be a "Muskie Rod" mainly but also a rod that could be used for other species.
His fishing pals made the mistake of telling him that Fiberglass was not a suitable platform from which to fish Muskie.
I hope they are accustom to the taste of Crow :eek

Saved the S10 for last because I knew it was going to be at least week long project.
Cleared my bench of all other work beforehand.

As you can see all of you including Doug are seeing it here first that should give you an idea of how COOL :smokin of a guy/ family he and his tribe are to work for!

I will load the next segment then get back to the bench as you are getting this practically in real time.

Tight Lines and Muskie Loops
Andy M


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Post 15 Mar 2012, 11:39 • #72 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Well I wasted my time trying to do another slide show?
Here we go folks lots of pictures I hope you enjoy them as always ask questions when they arise it's tough going back to answer questions from previous segments.

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Last edited by The Glass Master on 19 Mar 2012, 11:09, edited 2 times in total.

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Post 15 Mar 2012, 11:58 • #73 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 10/30/09
Posts: 2527
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
WOW! Thanks so much for all that detail! I learned a lot just then.


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Post 15 Mar 2012, 13:03 • #74 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/11/05
Posts: 3327
Location: US-TX
that's about as thorough as you can get; really cool stuff-p;-


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Post 15 Mar 2012, 13:46 • #75 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
Andy,

Thank you! The pictures are great and very clear and for the most part self explanatory. That was probably the most enjoyable post I have seen on the site to date. What exactly is the fabric looking material? In an existing old aluminum reel seat what would be the best method of adding a removable fighting butt if there wasn't one to begin with, specifically on an older Lamiglas S-Glass rod that has a rubber plug in the end? I am a little nervous about removing the rubber plug after observing the rubber winding check completely fall apart from age when I removed it.


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Post 15 Mar 2012, 19:02 • #76 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Glad to help Spence!
I'll see if I can answer the questions in order.
The Fabric looking stuff is Coban if you look over in the long and short of grips thread I tell all about the material.
The best way Hmmmm to add a removable fighting butt would be by the method I detailed in the first System 10 remake with a metal ferrule.
If you are adding a fighting butt that old rubber cap is going in the trash any how so why not pull it off.
If you decide that you aren't going to retro fit the rod after you pull it off your local hardware store will have a rubber plug to replace it for about a buck.
The reason I went industrial strength with this extension was because it's hopefully going to be really stressed provided the Muskie got the email , also I needed to add 4 OZ in weight to the back end of the rod for balance with the reel Doug is going to use.
This way Doug will be able to confidently put the rod in a rod holder on deck of the boat and not have to worry about the extension pulling off when he pulls the rod out of the holder etc.
That's also the reason for the aluminum butt cap on the longer extension to protect the rod on deck

P So Thorough that I posted many of the picks twice |I

C.B. Glad I could help stay tuned.

Tight Lines and Industrial Strength Loops
Andy


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Post 19 Mar 2012, 12:44 • #77 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Well it's Monday morning so back to work on the System 10.
Edited the last segment this morning and removed all the doubles thanks for your patients.
Below you will see how I address the deep abrasions in the blank.
The first coarse of action is to remove the residue from the old varnish thread finish I start with coarse paper to remove all the high spots then 400 grit next is sanding/polishing cloth.
You will see the crazy glue being applied to the deeply effected area only then sanded down and polished again before application of the first of 2 coats of Perma Gloss.
For Perma Gloss I like to use my finger to even out the material, it just works best for me no drips or brush marks.
Tight Lines and Crazy Glued Loops
Andy M
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Post 19 Mar 2012, 14:03 • #78 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
In the last segment we were looking at the butt section of the system 10.
This segment will show the tip section you can see the guide foot abrasions here as well.
You will not see the crazy glue portion of the repair process because it's not user friendly with the picture taking part of this pictorial.
Last Friday I had some CG on my finger and glued the shutter button on my camera so once bitten twice shy.
The same crazy glue process was used on the tip as well.
I also added an alternative method to the Perma Gloss application here you will see a small piece of foam rubber cut to the average length between my tape ends.
The foam will work as well as your finger without direct exposure to the material.
Also you will see how I attach tip sections to my rod turning devices with a piece of old rod blank.
Awhile back I was astonished to learn that some rod tinkers clamp the actual tip top into the turner.
This is how I do it you can do it however you like!
Tight Lines and Exposed Loops
Andy M

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Post 19 Mar 2012, 21:37 • #79 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 07/05/10
Posts: 5229
Location: Mid Hudson Valley of New York
Andy, this is an amazing thread. So much to learn here. The pictures are awesome. Thanks for sharing.


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Post 21 Mar 2012, 14:03 • #80 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Moving right along here.
Below you will see how I dealt with the ferrule issues by adding a ferrule support ring ala" Whirlpool" made from an old brass plated ferrule.
In the next segment you will see more of the ferrule.
Tight Lines and Supported Loops
Andy M
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Post 21 Mar 2012, 14:27 • #81 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
The rod is progressing along rather well if I do say so myself.
In this segment you will see guide preparation, the guide placement process, preparation of the transition from the blank to the guide foot repair areas,the wrapping process, the application of the first coat of three of color preserver.
Tight Lines and Wrapped Loops
Andy M

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Post 23 Mar 2012, 13:12 • #82 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
In the last segment you saw the base wraps being applied and the first of 3 coats of C.P.
In this next segment you will see the second over wrap of thread being applied along with the trim wraps.
The 2nd color preserver step basically the same method used for the base wraps.
You will see the first base coat of 2 coats of U- 40 Supreme Epoxy being applied.
If any of you have questions this would be a good time to get them answered as the project is coming to an end.
I only have the final coat of thread finish to apply,the script, the clear coat and last but not least the cork sealing before the rod is finished.
Tight Lines and Nearly Finished 10 Days |I Later S10 Loops
Andy M
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Last edited by The Glass Master on 25 Mar 2012, 07:17, edited 1 time in total.

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Post 23 Mar 2012, 17:14 • #83 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
Andy,
Was that actually a second wrap layer of the brown thread on top of the first? That rod is looking good and looks like it will last a lifetime this time around.
DT


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Post 23 Mar 2012, 17:27 • #84 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 04/26/06
Posts: 3837
Location: Northeast Of Heaven
Hello
Yes I double wrapped all the rod guide wraps before I added the trim wraps.
I bet that's the first time anyone has posted a double wrap here?
A few years back I made a rod for Doug a little 6' canoe/yak rod that I double wrapped for durability.
During the planning of this rod we kicked the double wrap concept around and Doug left it for me to decide if I wanted to do all the extra work.
I have put so much time into this rod I figured whats another 8 hours?
With this rod being built to take a licking and keep on fishing it seemed the most logical choice.
Tight Lines and Doubled Them Loops
Andy M


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Post 23 Mar 2012, 20:33 • #85 
Master Guide
Joined: 02/26/08
Posts: 981
Location: SW, Michigan
Do you put epoxy on the initial wraps before wrapping a second time, I assume color preserver on the first wrap would be pointless.


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