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Post 14 Aug 2017, 08:08 • #1 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
I am looking to add a little weight to s couple medalists and clones i have. I have managed to add a sinker under the reel foot but that isn't enough. I heard some old timers talk about adding shot inside the reel hub. Any idea how to do this and the pros and cons?


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Post 14 Aug 2017, 09:07 • #2 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
just say no.
Use a base-wrap of lead-core trolling line beneath your backing instead - it's marked in 10-yd increments, so you can easily decide how much to wrap.


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Post 14 Aug 2017, 10:20 • #3 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
Would lead solder be similar?


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Post 14 Aug 2017, 10:58 • #4 
Sport
Joined: 03/28/17
Posts: 28
Location: US-GA
I have a beautiful old 1492 that I was almost able to shake all the lead out of. There are a few pieces that will never come out unless I enlarge the hole.

There are a lot of lead-core fishing lines that would work. One example: https://www.cortlandline.com/products/lc-13-lead-core


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Post 14 Aug 2017, 11:27 • #5 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 03/30/09
Posts: 1525
Location: Hamilton,Ontario,Canada
Lead solder isn't likely to work.Leadcore line is your best bet.Put lead shot inside the spool and I'm pretty sure you are going to hear it rattling in there.


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Post 14 Aug 2017, 18:36 • #6 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/23/05
Posts: 4966
Location: US-MT
If you want some lead core line, let me know, am sure I have some around!


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Post 14 Aug 2017, 20:46 • #7 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 05/19/14
Posts: 3925
Location: USA - Illinois
As a guy who played golf for years since age seven (not any more though), adhesive backed lead tape wound around the arbor also works well. I would not do this on an old collectible 1930's early 1940's reel just on principle. Lead core on those is best as others have recommended.


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Post 14 Aug 2017, 21:09 • #8 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/05/05
Posts: 742
Location: US-VA
I recall reading "how to" articles back in the 60s and 70s about adding shot and other adjustments such as adding a bolt to counterbalance the reel seat and cutting a whole in the frame to allow finger pressure on the spool. I'll bet a lot of what otherwise would be valuable old Medalists were messed up that way.


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Post 18 Aug 2017, 12:40 • #9 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 03/30/09
Posts: 1525
Location: Hamilton,Ontario,Canada
If price is not a concern,adding a One Pfoot stainless drag plate in place of the plastic one and the high profile counterbalance will add a bit of weight.


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Post 18 Aug 2017, 14:28 • #10 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
here was my solution to all of this.

Original 3 oz sinker

Image

Beaten worse than the Falcons in the 4th quarter of the superbowl

Image

wrapped around the reel hub

Image

Layers of backing later, I have a 1498 that is 3 oz heavier and balances pretty well on my r90 and perfectly on my MF86b and it was done with little cost to me.

Image


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Post 19 Aug 2017, 07:38 • #11 
Master Guide
Joined: 11/28/15
Posts: 378
Location: US-NC
About lead. Over time, especially if the lead gets wet, it develops a product of oxidation on the surface. I'd be afraid that this oxidation would eventually bleed into the backing and maybe the fly line, and also damage the inside of the spool. I don't know about the newer tin-based "lead".

Lead core line sounds like the sensible alternative as I'm sure the lead core is somehow treated to not bleed through the line covering.

BB


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Post 20 Aug 2017, 01:00 • #12 
Guide
Joined: 10/31/08
Posts: 134
Location: Canada
I've dien something similiar to eric above, instead of smashing the lead I have lead rolls from way back when I used to make my own jigs. To prevent the oxidation mentioned above I have wrapped it in cling wrap before putting on the spool.

Paul


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Post 20 Aug 2017, 03:46 • #13 
Piscator
Joined: 08/10/05
Posts: 19078
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
so I rescued my images of 1554 Sal-Trout with lead-core base wrap, used to balance an 8-1/2' H-I Black River (Wards M27) cane fly rod.
A particularly light reel matched with a 5+oz rod - and made a perfect combo

I believe this is the Sufix 15-lb. bought from Cabelas.
http://www.cabelas.com/category/Lead-Co ... 590980.uts
Though my brain remembers $12 for 100 yds, looks like the price has gone up., But the line was lean enough that I could tie a loop for loop-to-loop with my backing. Could also easily tie an Albright knot with backing into the lead core.
With this reel, 40-yds lead core (blue-grey-red-black), 50-yds 18-lb backing, and a Hi-floater WF5.

Image Image


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Post 20 Aug 2017, 10:03 • #14 
Master Guide
Joined: 07/04/15
Posts: 388
Location: Coppell, TX
ericdimarzio wrote:
Would lead solder be similar?


I've tried lead solder. Stick with the lead core line.


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Post 20 Aug 2017, 14:28 • #15 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/21/06
Posts: 3081
Location: Orygun
to echo what has already been stated, lead core works really really well. I've also used it on a number of more modern reels that just aren't heavy enough (mostly Lamsons, which are notoriously light).


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Post 25 Aug 2017, 06:23 • #16 
Glass Fanatic
Joined: 06/08/05
Posts: 3570
Location: Western PA
The lead strips golfers use work well too. I have a few taped into the reel body. It would allow you to use normal backing. Or say you need to add even more weight after you have spooled up some lead core.


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Post 04 Sep 2017, 09:23 • #17 
Guide
Joined: 09/09/16
Posts: 153
Location: Warwick-RI
Ended up doing the smart thing and got bass pro lead core at 13 grains/ft. Works really well and is cheap, i think 16 bucks/hundred yards at bass pro. Will be disassembling and redoing the originaly monstrosity at some point


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